Tree Reaper

I cut thin leather by rubber cementing it to poster board. I cement the leather to the cardboard and then use masking tape to hold the cardboard down to keep it from moving.

If I was doing that I would use my scroll saw. If they are all the same size you could order a cutting die. Another option would be to mark your outline, cut close to the edge so you can still see the mark and then finish it to the line by sanding.

I'm glad that's going to work for you. If you transfer the paper template to a cardboard template, mark the center fold line from the paper onto the center of the cardboard to give you a center reference on your leather. That way you'll have the two sides lined up and the center on center.

Seth; You can fold a piece of paper, mark half the width of the flap on the paper, place your compass on the fold and open it to where it meets the line, scribe, cut and open the paper and then transfer that to something heavier like cardboard and use that for a template.

Sorry about the confusion of typing dye instead of oil in my first post. I oil first because of a well known saddle maker that does the same and he's been doing it for a long time with good results.

The best thing to do would be try a piece that has two different colors and see how it turns out before dying an entire batch. I have always oiled veg tan prior to dying and have not experienced any problems.

Have you seen these ... http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=staples

You look at the thickness chart and decide how thick you want the leather for each project you're working on. http://d31snyb1jsf9xb.cloudfront.net/services/image.aspx/media/images-misc/ThicknessConversion.png-600x

Crystal; Those are absolutely fantastic.

It would be interesting to find out what a camera model made from a 3D printer would cost.

Do you have a particular style in mind?

I've had my 4500 for a couple of years and I'm still learning how to use it. These machines aren't plug and play and pilot error is at the top of the list when something happens. It takes time and mistakes to become proficient and you better have patience if you buy any machine. Bob's service is second to none and there's always lots of additional help on this forum. I'm very happy with my CB4500 and the service I have received from Toledo Industrial. I would recommend the machine and the dealer to anyone interested in buying a machine.

Use a good penetrating stain like Angelus ,buy better leather, dampen the leather and bend it prior to finishing when using the Eco Flo..

Search "snap fender hook". http://www.sailboatstuff.com/images/SnapFenderHook_LG.jpg Used in the marine industry. Ohio Travel Bag also sells one.

You're welcome! I spent a month thinking on and off about how I was going to hold that blade, tried pliers but the blade either went flying or it broke under the jaws. I first thought of a clothes pin but they didn't open wide enough and then I remembered those little spring clamps I wasn't using that came in a bag with the larger clamps I needed. Then the idea struck me to heat the blade and let it sink into the plastic jaws and now I have a dedicated clamp. It takes all of about five seconds to sharpen both sides. When I put the leather up against the blade and it won't advance by just pushing on the leather I know it's time to sharpen it.

Depends on what you want to cut, clickers as a rule have a larger cutting surface. If you plan on cutting wallet sized leather a ten ton and up will work but try and get one with a gauge so you know how much pressure to use.

That's a beauty! This is the timex version of that ...

Monica; You've been busy getting that done. Nice case, does your camera still take pictures after all that molding? Kevin

If anyone is shopping for those screws, the proper name for them is Cap Screw.

You can dull the top of that blade and put a heat shrink over it.

No confusion Mike. You can also use granite for stamping with an arbor press. You get smaller pieces cut to size, the problem is you have to buy a little larger press to accommodate the thickness of the granite but I don't know which press you purchased.

This is the leather I http://springfieldle...b,Antique-Pink/ The buckle has a slight curve to it but it shouldn't be rubbing through the embossed surface within a week. It only appears to be rubbing through on one side but it's the total width of the buckle. I've already made several so I'm not too happy about it considering it is advertised for use in making belts.

3-4 oz. isn't very heavy for stamping. Granite might have been a better choice than the steel for stamping but you can use nylon or poundo board on top of your steel plate.

DOT is a registered trademark name for many different styles of fasteners. If they are referring to DOT snaps it is probably because of the quality. http://www.dotfasteners.com/index.html

That could be, I can't make it out from the picture. I agree that would be a better solution, you know you have to make three of everything to get the one you want.