Tree Reaper

It could be an oil finish and you could use a Q Tip in the groove with a stripping agent to try and remove it but it wouldn't be difficult to make a new one with the single groove you need and leave it unfinished. Any type of wood will work, hard or soft wood. You can also buy a plastic burnisher that goes on a mandrel if you can't make a wooden burnisher.

The only thing I'll do to the edge prior to creasing is sand any unevenness along the edge.

Your crease will only be as good as your edge because that's your guide. Keeping the angle of the creaser the same all the way around the entire project is also important. The jumpy spots can be decreased with a sharp creaser and smoothed over with a modeling spoon. Leather casing is also important.

Very nice, I hope he gets to use it more than once.

You can call their 800 number or list a couple that you are interested in and I'll look up the price.

Liability is huge, tell him to buy an approved harness and you can make accessories for it.

http://www.golden-wheel.cn/uploadFiles/747%E7%B3%BB%E5%88%97/%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6/CS-747%E4%B8%AD%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E8%AF%B4%E6%98%8E%E4%B9%A6.pdf I'd guess that too much pressure or clearance could be a problem or a worn part causing the damage requires dressing or replacing.

What side of the leather are the lines on?

Can we see a picture of it?

For coasters I use a three fence method where the coaster rides on all three fences, the last stamp remains in place when stamping the next. The coaster gets turned and stamping progresses. As Dwight said, start in the middle for alignment. The problem here is the strap will prevent turning the work so I would trace the design over a thin piece of wood, downsize that with a compass, cut it out, clamp it over the work and follow that with the stamps using the template as your fence. A solid fence is critical when stamping letters on a curve or straight. The other problem you can run into is having the same two letters together so you can't leave the last stamp in place because you need it for the next one, you can either use another similar size stamp to get the placement and then remove the stamp from it's placement and use it or you can buy a second set of stamps. By butting each stamp up against the next one it keeps them aligned as long as you get the first one straight. https://www.google.ca/search?q=buckaroo+spur+straps&client=firefox-a&hs=v8p&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=WLZvUpWsOqqQyQH6-YC4Cg&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=884&bih=482&dpr=0.9 Kevin.

Is the leather round like a coaster?

The DOT fasteners are marked on the inside of the socket where the red arrow points. These are the setting tools I use and the posts roll over perfectly every time. I use the cap anvil on top of a mini steel anvil and make sure the post height matches the material thickness. I started with Tandy snaps and experienced the same problem you're having, they're garbage too!

I referred to pull the dot but you really want durable dot for standard fasteners. http://www.dotfasteners.com/durable.html

You're welcome Bob. If you lay your straps out and clamp the far end to keep the tension it's quite simple and the results as you can see in the picture are better than you would think. I've skived a few dog collars and this was the first belt blank but I know now it works well and am happy to share it. If you don't have a blade jig or stone you can most likely get your blades sharpened at any saw sharpening service. I have a few different planes and chisels so I bought a jig and the wet stone.

You could use a 3 oz. white underlay under the black carved letters.

Search for slides at Ohio Travel Bag.

Good control with the plane. It stops cutting after a few layers then you just lower with a slight turn of the screw, no waves, nice and flat. For sharp knives you can't beat a good cloth wheel and green compound, it takes seconds to sharpen a blade.

Just letting folks know that you can skive with a cheap block plane but the blade has to be sharp.

Beautiful craftsmanship! The coloring is also fantastic.

You are welcome Biju . I haven't done it myself so that's all I could offer.

Just keep at it, a heat gun will burn it.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44889

I tried it with super sheen with and without thinning and tried two different cans and the results were the same. I can't see how a filter makes any difference if the viscosity is right.

Let me know if it works. I have to wonder why they supply a filter on the tube and then tell you to remove it?

I bought that set on line a few years ago, they do require sharpening but will cut just fine over a poly board once sharpened properly.