Andrew Chee

I think this is why it's important to describe your process to people. There are things that individuals would do that a factory usually wouldn't. For example, when I use copper rivets I set them by hand and then peen them and dome both sides. Factory set rivets don't usually don't do that. On stressed areas that I I sew by machine, I hand backtack the beginning and end stitches. This is stronger than just machine backtack. Most factories don't do that. Let's face it, many factories make very good quality items. I think you have to sell yourself on the individuality, quality, and details of your work. Andrew

Maybe you should market your goods as "made from start to finish by a single craftsman". I've seen people say that and it's (at least to me) as good if not better than saying hand made (which as people have noted could mean pretty much anything these days). Truth though us that people nowadays who really care about this probably want to know more about your whole process beyond just the label of "hand made" so if you have a website or something you should include a description of your process. Andrew

You can see an earlier thread about it here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=47424&hl=%2Bpfaff+%2B335+%2Bflatbed As for smallest thread, I don't know but I'm sure it can handle pretty small. The smallest thread I use is 69. The thing works just fine on fabric and light weight leathers. It does fine on heavier leathers too, just won't go over a certain thickness and thread size. Andrew

I have a 441 clone and I have all the different plates. They are useful for different operations. The open vs closed center foot isn't as important. Having an open toe does help in the sense that you don't have to thread the thread through the hole. But other than that, either is equivalent. Left toe vs. right toe is useful when you want to sew right up to the edge using a guide. You can sew closer to the right edge using a left toe. The only time I use the right toe is if I'm using the harness plate. The harness plates (at least the one I have) is designed to be used with the right toe. The harness plate elevates the leather so you can sew closer to a bump. I sew handles that is leather wrapped around a rope or some other kind of corp. The harness plate lets me sew right up to the bump in the handle and still sew straight down. As for a Pfaff 345, I don't have that machine exactly. I have a Pfaff 335 and that machine maxes out at a 138 thread. I had a guy make a flat top attachment for it and it's great. I would say that a cylinder machine with a removeable flattop attachment is always preferable to a flat bed of the same type because it gives you the flexibility to switch and do different operations. The negative is price and availability of attachments. Cylinder beds usually cost more than a comparable flat bed and many times you would have to get a flattop attachment made. Andrew

Hello all, I have a Cobra H10 top and bottom skiver for sale. I am selling it in the SF Bay Area. Local pickup only. For more information on the item, please check out my Craigslist posting at: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/app/4305013229.html Andrew

Hello all, I have just put the press up on Craigslist. You can see the listing here: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/app/4304998791.html SNPR, I didn't see your message. If you are in the bay area you can contact me either via PM or the Craigslist add. Andrew

It will definitely not handle 277. I sew 138 top and bottom on mine with no problems. I wouldn't go heavier than that. Andrew

It's the CS-1001 (I think that's the model number) that I see on eBay. The cheapest one I could find. BTW, there is a flaw with the controllers on those servos. They seem to go slow slow slow.. FAST.... There's a fix you can do to get better gradual speed control on them. Do a search on this site and you can find it. Someone made a Youtube video how to do the mod and it's very easy. I don't use a positioner on my big Artisan cause those things go slow enough as it is that I don't need one. Andrew

I kinda cheat. I have needle positioner servos with speed reducers on my Consew and Pfaff. Makes control super easy. Andrew

The liners and smaller stitches were sewn using 69 thread size 18 needle on a Consew 206RB flatbed. The external stitches were sewn using 138 thread size 21 needle on a Pfaff 335 The handle was sewn using 207 thread size 23 (I think) needle on an Artisan Toro 3000 The canvas is a 12oz. brown American canvas. You can find that at Pacific Denim. You can see what's available from their website. Andrew

Can you send me a link to that machine for sale? I'm looking for a post bed machine. Any idea how much the guy wants? Andrew

Wiz's recommendation about the Consew 206RB is pretty spot on. That's a pretty popular and easy to find machine and will handle leather of your weight quite well.If you have a bit more money to spend, I would suggest something like a Pfaff 335 though. It can basically sew everything the Consew class of machine can and it is a cylinder bed which is helpful if you sew bags. You can get flatbed attachments made for them (which will cost about $250 extra. I had one made by a local machinist) but that will let you sew flat items and three dimensional items well. The only thing is that they are quite a bit more expensive. Andrew

Hello all. Here is the latest bag that I've finished. It's based off of some "hunting bags" that I see around. It's made from a soft milled full veg tan italian cowhide with an American made canvas liner and strap. Andrew

A lot of this is personal preference. I personally find 8-10oz a good weight for belts and 4-6 oz good for bags and watch straps. Andrew

Since people have been on this topic for a while, I'd like to contribute any idea that I've found. Check out: http://www.nippy.jp/en/2013/1141.html This is a hot melt cementing machine from japan. It has a roller (mine is 3mm wide) and it lays down a very nice and precise line of glue for assembly. When gluing grain side to grain side, the glue is good for temporary holding and positioning. When gluing flesh side to flesh side the bond is fairly permanent. Great for assembly. The problem is the machine is fairly expensive (~$500) and can only be purchased in japan. I bought mine through a Japanese proxy shopping service. Anyways, I make a lot of stuff where I have turned edges to need to hold stuff in position for sewing and this thing works great. Andrew

If you're near the SF bay area I have one for sale. All set up already. Andrew

Hi folks, I'm in the process of purchasing a Singer 31-15 and was wondering if any of the swing down edge guides out there will fit this machine? Please let me know if anyone has any experience with this. Thanks. Andrew

There was a post a while back where one member had a binder attachment made for her 441 clone. I believe it was made by Tennessee attachment and it cost her about $300-400. Andrew

I have a like-new Weaver Heritage hydraulic clicking press for sale. It has the steel clicker plates as well. On Weaver's website it lists for $595 plus shipping. I'd like to sell the whole setup for $250. Press: http://weaverleathersupply.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=9108&CatalogId=001&CatalogDetailId=49&NSM=Y Plates: http://weaverleathersupply.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=9109&CatalogId=001&CatalogDetailId=49&NSM=Y I live in the SF bay area so I would like to deal locally since it's too heavy to ship without being too expensive. Please let me know if you're interested. Andrew

Is this still available? Do you have a pic? Andrew

You'd need a post bed machine to sew the bottom Andrew

5oz. Andrew

What leather is the bottom picture? Andrew

You can't do these on a cylinder arm. You may be able to do them on a high post arm machine. There are also machines with a swiveling post arm that has a c shaped bend in the arm so you can get something like this underneath. Basically you would need a relatively specialized machine to sew this. Andrew

It's 5-6oz W&C bridle. I have them split it for me when I buy it. I also have them stake the leather which softens it a little without breaking up the grain pattern too much. It's still fairly stiff though. Andrew