mncarpenter

or try MSC Industrial Supply-here is a link to 12x12 1" thick gum rubber--http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/SearchServlet/Raw-Materials/Rubber/Rubber-Sheets/_/N-77dswZ1yxgnduZ1yxgmj9?refinement=4288836448&searchandizedOk=Y&currentMSCtt=gum+rubber&currentRawInput=gum+rubber%A2gum+rubber&currentMSCtk=All_MSC&currentMSCtx=mode+matchallpartial

look better than my 4th and 5th ... problem is now you are addicted to holsters and will 1 )need more guns or 2 ) have a dozen holsters for each gun...

The other benefit of ordering from Rob is the blue guns come without the finish coat, nearly eliminating the blue rub-off inside the holster. This alone is worth ordering from Rob, in my book.

you can have Texas Dies make a mallet die or a clicker die-I had the make a clicker die 5/16 slot 1 9/16 long-works great, I use it in an arbor press. was around 65.00 if I remember right-best 65.00 I've spent yet.

Heres the thing-you can always sell the Boss if you find you don't use it. I bought mine for a very reasonable price, and check out fee-bay every so often to see what the Boss's are bringing, I'm not too worried about the investment in my Boss, not to mention I've paid for it several times in the last year. If you don't buy.let me know. I might be interested if it's cheap enough. I wouldn't mind having 2 set up with different thread.

You can make them with just 2 holes also,with a rivet on top and snap at the bottom hole. I've made several that way with just a Line 24 snap and they work great. RMB Leather sells the stiffener, is a member of this forum and great to do business with. Rob sells blue guns also and various hardware, and is very quick to get shipped and reasonable prices. look him in the directory or look for him in the holster forum. I don't work for Rob, just appreciate his services.

I'll take it if available -PM coming your way

I added the LED light, very sweet and well worth it. Didn't realize it would make that much difference, its cheap and easy. I zip tied the cord to the machine to keep it out of the way, with the little self-stick cable guide/clamp like th IT guys use . I have the material guide, but haven't used it much yet and frankly could probably live without it, have for a year anyway. I happened to get a good deal on it from another forum member and thought I'd try it out. I also put the wax pot on with silicone lubricant and I seem to have a lot fewer issues with tension, would do that again. No flatbed,have never need it but like Bruce did, can always make one if need arises. I wind about 3-4 bobbins at a time, seems handier than unthreading and rethreading every time I need a bobbin. buy the little oiler bottle with oil, essential, if it doesnt come with one. Get a bunch of extra needles.

thank you indeed, time to start makin' belts

PM coming-I'll take it- Bruce

Texas dies made a clicker die for me for 65.00 bucks, 5/16x1 9/16- use it with a 1 ton arbor press, ended all my frustration with slots. they will make it as a mallet die also.

As far as the slots go on the rail, I fill 'em with Bondo and sand- on the dummy gun . Nothing worse than a gun that won't come out of the holster

Try this one http://www.bluegunstore.com/?slug=product_info.php&cPath=22&products_id=105-not sure how precise the blackhawks are

The marks I see in the photos, thanks guys for posting them by the way, are more pronounced then those left by my Tippman, but by the same token are on the bottom. However, making holsters and trying to acheive a high quality of finish, needing to spend the time to rub out the marks brings the profitability margin down a bunch, not to mention still left with the possibility of still showing marks. The marks left by the boss largely dissapear when pressing the holster and when boning. whats left is usually fairly easily rubbed out. I think I'll save my pennies for a while longer and look at a 441 clone in the near future. I do appreciate the photos, , now I can quit vacillating...

I can spen 2 hrs on a template and still throw a holster away or I can use some cheap shoulder from Tandy to make the first one, then I just stitch the gun lines to check for need to adjust.

I have seen a lot of discussion re: the Ga5-1R, especially about the feed dogs marking the leather, but have never seen it illustrated, either in any of the videos I've seen, nor have I ever seen anyone post photos of the underside and the marks. Anyone have photos or video showing the marking? I've mulled this machine over many times, mostly because of the price point.By the way, my Tippman Boss leaves marks on top...and yes, I've adjusted the foot pressure until I'm blue in the face, no marks, material "jumps, no jump-leaves marks.

I've ordered a few times from Rob, never an issue and quick to send em out. Nice part is, Rob orders his blue guns without the finish coat , so no blue marks on your holsters! Price is as competitive as I've found, too. Thanks, Rob, I'll will be ordering more. Put a bug in the blue gun folks ear -need models for the Sig 1911's, and the new Springfield XDmS. I've been getting a number of requests for the Sigs, and a couple for the XDmS.

I've been using Tan Kote thinned 50/50, with good results. No dye.

I'd definitely be interested in one each of the commander and a 5"

Tan Kote, cut 50-50 w/ water-nice mellow sheen, not glossy

I always mold the sweat shield around the safety in the cocked and locked position, I assume others do too.. have a customer that claims his Wilson Combat holster will snap his safety on if he forgets to. i went to the Wilson website and saw no such claim, and told him so. I also told him I wouldn't under any circumstance, make a similar claim, whether the holster actually did it or not. I make my IWBs with 8/9 oz Herman oak, and use a press to do the majority of the molding, following up by defining the lines somewhat with a modeling tool. Even with 8/9 oz leather, the sweat shield is still flexible enough I would have a hard time imagining it actually flippin' the safety on. Has anyone managed to accomplish this and would it even be desirable? I'm looking at it from a liability standpoint, I sure as hell don't want to be responsible for someone else not engaging their safety... I carry a 1911 and have never had the safety flip off, partly because of the molding and partly because of a pretty positive safety. I must confess, I do check the damn thing on occasion!

I hate it when that happens-i never put anything in to dry unless I'm in a hurry, I toasted a really nice holster that I was supposed to drop off the next day, try explaining to your customer that you burned up his holster...

I looked at the same shoulders at the TLF store, manager at the store told me it won't take dye, but was meant to use for belts-he said he tried to take the coating off with deglazer and it wouldn't come off-mind you, this is not personal experience, just relating what he told me.

One thing to consider, when I mold a holster with rails, I dont mold the rail tight, especially don't mold the slots-you want to see retention!!