leathersmyth

I am looking for the wax pot for a 42-5 Singer. Wondering if anyone has one for sale? Also, If anyone has any of the binding attachments that i have seen listed in the catalouge for this machine. Please contact me if you do. Thank you!

Yes, You need to address and adjust the pearson stitch length adjustment proper before it will work. Mine can adjust Any stitch i want and match any stitch i need... So works flawless to match old stitch holes...

What is the cost of it?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hobbies-craft/calgary/treadle-and-hand-crank-29k-singer-sewing-machine/1276115061?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I have used a awl to stick in the top hole and then you do small downward lite pressure. The needle shaft should start to drop and then pull with pliers...

Belting Leather is a firmer leather. The fibres are "squished"more to make a denser leather. Wicket and craig used to always have belting leather for purchase,in cordovan,natural,brown,black, but since so much leather has moved over seas it is harder to find belting leather. There were some manufacturing companies that used belting leather in their cases but that has moved to places like china now for production. I have made Many many cases out of belting leather over 50 years of case making,it is Wonderful leather to work with. I still use belting leather on all my machines. call me old fashion,but it is easy to make a new belt up to what i need when i need....

Pearson is a much smoother machine, #9 sounds like a tractor when running, Way louder, more"jerky" than the pearson. The only limitation of the #6 is the shuttle system if you want to sew things that need to drop down when sewing by the needle. Which is why had picked up the #9. The machining was not as nice as it could of been. I think #9 is not a "bad" machine but because of the more "clunk" as sewing ,i think the parts will wear out due to the stress put on them when running. If the machining and design could of been slightly tweaked,then i think it would be a awesome machine to run..... Sold the 9 and got a bull instead. Much smoother running than the #9.

I had a #9 machine, I kept the # 6 and sold the #9... It did not run as good as the pearson. I had all attachments for it. Left and right feet as well as the standard toe. So could sew close to the side without any problem. I can not remember the set up of attaching the feet but i would think it would be pretty easy to get one made up. Take the foot you have to a machine shop in town and ask them to make up one. In calgary,there is a machinist that i have used and can make up all parts for machines i have needed in past.

Did you ever find someone to make for you? I am in Calgary if you are interested.

I was maybe the first customer,maybe second of Mikes when they opened in calgary way back when. 30 years ago maybe..... They just opened a new brick and mortar place on vancouver island as well as the calgary location. His daughters work with him.Price wise are in line with other suppliers, They have all types of leathers,some dyes,some thread. I couldn't tell you about the shipping aspect because i am a 20 minute drive away. But I do not believe you have to worry about ordering anything from them.

Good Morning, I could make up in black for you. I am in calgary...

Internal sewn seam or external sewn seam, where it will be bound with binding?

Pretty much like that...

Because it is a oil tan leather, glue dose not work the best on a rolled edge like that. Will often lift like a bandaid. If you skive the edge to take the pressure off of the roll,you will have better success with it. On your corners,if you practice with the cut you will be able to make the corner a 45 degree edge where the edges bump nicely together. Instead of laying one edge over the other.

You need to use a riveting hammer to spread the prongs. The one end is flat hammer part but the other end is a wedge to open the wings of the feet. There are a few sizes of hammers depending what you need. I have used them for 40 years and still use them on the bags i make. They pretty much never need to be replaced....

Depends what you are sewing, There are several machines that can sew the weight. Depends on thread, weight of leather,what you are sewing. Some of my machines can't get into what another one can.So i jump from machine to machine depending on project.

If you look at picture, you can see where the two bolts bump together, Your back one,might not be sitting where it should be. The back one is the one you adjust if the stitch does not correspond with the numbers on the dial... So if you are getting no movement would tghink that back bolt is either backed out too far so not hitting dial bolt, or is missing....

I would be interested in the punches... I am in Calgary, I prob will be heading to victoria begining of june, or could send them by post...

I have had them made by a machinist in calgary. Took them a sample and they copied.... But i might of gotten some off aaron martin in the past as well.... Where did you get shuttle and bobbins from?

If you look at the dial from the back, There is a bolt sticking out from. This in turn should be touching another bolt(end to end) As you turn the dial the dial bolt should push on the one behind it. This should cause the entire part of the head to move forward and back which is how the stitch get adjusted...

There are two versions of this machine. The older ones are like this where the bottom arm is a solid bar... The newer one is a silver end. The newer one,you can replace the front bobbin shuttle parts if get worn. The older solid ones,once worn, thats it for the machine..... The newer version is better because you can replace bits and bobs if need to. the part that is bent is the pressure foot tension. Hard to say, what is exactly wrong with. Would need close pictures to see what is going on. Might be able to straighten the bent bits. Shuttles should not be a problem to replace. more the worn parts might need to be addressed and a worry about getting sewing again....

Years ago, I switched to water based glues as much as possible to get away from fumes etc... They take longer to dry but i fiqure a small price to pay for less toxic.... Tandy water based contact works pretty good overall.....

I have a machine made by the D.B. Die works company, it is a rotary stamp machine (like a gold foil stamp machine but with rolling numbers instead of being able to take dies) that heats up to about 400 degree and that you can change the numbers if you are making a production run and want to keep things marked. So they were made at one point but i would not be able to fathom a guess on how old the machine is...... Have had it for 40 odd years. If you have a Foil machine you could use the numbers from the sets to do the same thing, more fussing swapping numbers around...... Depends on how big numbers you are wanting to use......

If, They are nails.... You can get nails that are made for trunk making. You kinda get use to how to set them, But you use a metal behind the leather and when the tip of the nail hits the metal it turns like a J. That is what causes it to "hook" into the leather and hold. When you are driving nail in,you do a sort of brush hit with the hammer, This then goes through the leather and hits the metal which causes the nail to bend like a J. Hard to describe.... I have set Thousands of them and get to know how it "feels" to set... If you set wrong they will bend like a L which is not what you want. You need it to go like J so holds leather like a rivet...... And yes, the trunk nails will turn the leather that colour with time and moisture.....

Randall has been in business since 1858 and they were then and still are today, one of the largest suppliers of leather machinery, parts and tools in the U.S. The company name is now Campbell/Randall. Stitching horses were made in two different styles. One with straight in-line jaws and one with jaws that were set and turned a little to the left. The straight jaw was designed for harness makers and the off-set jaw as made for saddle makers......