NVLeatherWorx

Chief: I too remember those days and you could also walk into any Tandy store and have a conversation with every employee about a product, tool, or even a technique and they knew what they were talking about. The manager here in my local store have flat told me that the Leather Factory doesn't look for whether a potential employee has any experience in the craft or not; all they want is to make sure that they can teach their staff exactly how to sell any given product and to make money. I have also been told that their managers have only one objective: sell, sell, sell; it is all about numbers, nothing more. If I remember correctly isn't this the very "business model" that is currently leading to the downfall of several large names in the business world? And hasn't that same model been the reason behind so many others from the past disappearing from existence? Tramp: You nailed it with your comment about how the term customer service is just thrown around. Any time that I end having to deal with a "customer service" department for anything, I make it very clear to them that had they actually been providing quality customer service in the first place, we wouldn't be having the conversation that we are about to. I find that it typically leads to almost a solid minute of silence and then I am immediately offered the opportunity to speak with a supervisor. I then follow that with the question, "is it going to make a difference?", and "do they know something that none of the rest of you have been taught?", which never gets a response either. It would be nice if we could get real customer service back into the system and at the level where the customer actually is, not in some corporate office somewhere in "who knows where-ville" on the other side of the planet (if they are even on this planet anymore). Thank you Fanninator for that list and I would like to add one more to it that may be of help to some: The Hide House, located in Napa, CA; http://hidehouse.com

Might I suggest that you check out Al Stohlman's Coloring Leather; it is probably the most informative book yet when it comes to the blending of base colors to create custom hue's and it covers so much more in techniques than most other books do. It is available as a downloadable PDF through the Leathercraft Library (another Tandy outlet); I still refer to my original print version every now and then but it was the first one that I received (about 35 years ago now) and I haven't found anything else that was as helpful. Fiebing's also sells a book that is specifically geared towards their products and may also be of some help to you.

Ray: The Tandy store in my area had a great manager as well who went out of the way for his customers but they transferred him off to one of the California stores and then tied his hands. Since then they have had 4 different managers here and they do nothing but train future managers for other stores; not a single person in the store at any time knows anything about their products or merchandise. The current manager is obviously a company man because in his eyes Tandy is the ONLY option on the market for your materials and supplies. Kind of pisses him off when I show him my delivery tickets from other sources where I get the same things that Tandy offers for at least 1/3 to 1/2 of what the price he offers, and that even includes shipping. Don't do it intentionally but don't sit there and tell me that there are no other better priced sources or that what you have isn't available anywhere else. I keep telling him that I have been working with leather longer than he could spell it so I must know something.

Having been a student of the Al Stohlman methods for decades I find it hard to believe that his books on coloring were not helpful. His methods and explanations were very detailed and results oriented so you may not have been reading the right stuff. He had two books out that dealt specifically with the coloring aspects and how to get the in between and custom blends and they were both specifically oriented to the Fiebing's product line. And for those colors that aren't covered in any book, just tinker with the color blends and test them on scrap leather until you get exactly what you are looking for. And don't forget to track what you did to get that color; makes it a lot easier to repeat it when you need it again. I use the same type of syringes and tips that you can find for use in refilling inkjet cartridges and I mark down how much of any one color that I use so that I can just go the bottle and get what I need the next time I need that unique shade. Science doesn't have much of a role here but the creativity of one's mind is the master.

They have lost their way and have nothing in common with the Tandy that we all grew up with. The years since the change of ownership have slowly seen the quality of materials go down while the prices have gone through the roof. I still remember when I could get beautiful Live Oak leather for belts (9-10 oz.) for about $4.65 a square foot; man those were the days. On the leathers that you see on their most recent flyer: these are the rejects that have been sitting in warehouse for awhile now as they are phasing some of the weights out by grade. If you pay really close attention to the standard listing on their website you will notice that they have removed some of the weights from their Craftsman Oak and Oak-Leaf brands; just so happens that the weights they removed are these very sides that they are selling off at the fire sale prices. And the smaller sizes means that these sides are the ones that did not pass muster to go out on the table under the regular pricing so they hung on to them until their inventory was down to the closeout level and then toss them out there at a bargain price. I have also seen some of these sides where the Craftsman Oak looked better than the Oak-Leaf and that just ain't sposed to happen. Word is that Tandy plans on expanding the H.O. offerings but I have already addressed it with them that we can get our H.O. from any other source for much less than even their Elite pricing is set at. As a business pricing customer for several supply outlets I am given the best pricing available and I have told Tandy that I can get the same 8-9 oz. side that they are selling for less than they can offer it to me and that includes shipping; with some savings left over. Their response was that they know about the other's pricing but they are going to be putting the rest of the suppliers out of business because of convenience to be able to walk into a store and walk out with the merchandise in hand. I kind of reminded them that today's consumer will wait a couple of extra days to get what they need if they can get it from somewhere else and have it shipped to them for less and that if they needed proof of that, just look at what has been happening to some of the large well known companies like Sears and such. They can't even stay alive because just about everything they have on their shelves and shopping floor (exact brands included, no "similar" items) can be purchased online or through other outlets for less, even with shipping. I have a feeling that they may be in for a rude awakening shortly if they think that they will put everyone else out of business and become the sole source for our craft. Somebody has been moving the HQ to Colorado and partaking of that wacky weed.

It isn't uncommon for the cut out to be slightly larger than the pattern template. You can correct this (if you have the patience to do so) by making your cutting template a micro cut smaller (not even enough to truly give you a measurement to work with) or just go with what you get as it isn't really too much larger at all. Another thing to consider is that during any tooling/stamping or even when dyeing/finishing, you will most likely end up getting a little leather shrinkage (again, not enough to truly measure unless the leather is over saturated or force dried) that will bring it back to about what you are expecting to get anyway. I always make my templates to the dimensions that I want as finished and when all is said and done the end product is pretty much bang on anyway. Don't sweat this one, it ain't nuttin to lose sleep over. Have fun with it and by the way, them's be some nice watchbands.

KB that looks really cool! The contrast is perfect and really makes the tight tooling stand out even more than before. That piece there is worth much more than you are getting for it. Nice work.

First of all, nice work; very clean and defined. Now to the question at hand: Leather Balm is not intended to be used as a resist and should never be applied before you apply any coloring; it is a final finish and nothing more. The Eco-Flo Gel Antique Saddle Tan always comes out pretty yellowish/orangeish as it is and once you apply a top finish it lightens up even more so keep that in mind for any future applications. I found when I did use the Gel Antiques (awhile back, I use Fiebing's products only) that if you lightly dampen the leather before applying the gel antique you can get a bit darker and richer coloring to it that remains pretty much in place even after it has dried. As far as removing the leather balm I think you would be best to stick with your last decision and live with the results. Afterall, it looks good as it is and has its own character that way. For the future though just remember that leather balm is a top finish and doesn't work as a resist. If you are going to be using Eco-Flo products then you can get a good resist from applying Super Sheen (multiple applications are necessary to get a good resist) or you can go with Clear-Lac (manufactured by LCI and available through Springfield Leather and Sheridan). Regardless of what product you use, always make sure that you apply it as directed because that is how it was tested when trying to determine what the end results would be.

I always design and test with paper first and modify as needed to ensure that everything goes together exactly as it should and allows proper stitching lines and everything else. Once the paper mock-up is where it needs to be the pattern is transferred to a heavy cardboard (I actually use the same material as is used in designer purses/handbags as a stiffener) and then cut out and stored for further use. I never put anything to leather until it is ready and accurate and paper and lightweight cardboard are your best friend when it comes to saving on mistakes in a pattern design. It has worked for me over 40 years and I just don't see any reason to change it.

There have been a few questions in past weeks about how the Eco-Flo Professional Waterstain's react when being applied over a resisting treatment and the responses were a mixed bag at best. So, to help those who have this question get a more proven answer I did a test in my shop to show the results. Here we can all see for ourselves exactly how it turned out. The conditions were simple: a scrap piece of leather, segregated into 5 sections, with each section having received two applications of a known finish that doubles as a resisting agent (with 24 hour dry time between applications), with a final application of a waterstain as per the manufacturers directions (i.e. with a damp sponge, applied 24 hours after last resist application). The color of waterstain in Dark Brown. The finishes used as resisting agents are: 1. Eco-Flo Professional Finish (manufactured by Fenice, also the maker of the waterstains); 2. Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene (full strength, no dilution); 3. Eco-Flo Super Shene; 4. Eco-Flo Blockout Resist (never worked as it was intended to anyway); and, 5. LCI's Clear-Lac (the same product that was once called Neat-Lac and sold through Tandy stores). As you can tell from the image there were some products that resisted slightly (and inconsistently) and some that never did anything at all (the Blockout for example); but the most interesting result is that the products that are under the same branded name as the stain itself (especially the finish from the same manufacturer) had the worst results across the board. The Acrylic Resolene had a partial positive effect and was consistent while the Clear-Lac had the best result of all and actually gave the resist result that we as craftsmen are looking for. I have also tested this same process with adding additional applications of these products and the only changes are that the Resolene resists slightly better with each application but peaks after the 5th application; the Clear-Lac ends up creating a total resist block at 4 applications. Here is the image of the first test; see for yourself how it ends up and make YOUR decision based on fact, not preference.

When using a vise you need to ensure that you have a smooth plate on both sides (the jaws) and that the surface of your stamp where you will be applying the pressure TO is of equal plane. If the stamp in question is not the same thickness across then you will get unequal pressure which will not give a consistent impression. I don't have any pictures of my setup but I have a heavy-duty bench vise (from my golf club making days) with 6" jaws; I also have thick aluminum vise pads that are fit onto the jaws to provide for a flat and consistent surface on both both sides. The only type of stamping that I do with this setup is with custom made acrylic/delrin stamps that are smooth on the back side and the entire thickness (base and stamp design) is consistent from end to end (passed through a micrometer for verification). I make sure that the leather is properly cased and ready to accept the impression and then slowly apply the pressure until the face of the base is flush with the grain surface. I let mine sit for about 5 minutes and then back off the pressure, remove the project and stamp together, then remove the stamp from the leather. If you get into using arbor presses then you can get some highly functional (and highly affordable) equipment from Harbor Freight Tools that will fit this bill. I am considering getting a 12 ton press from them but haven't jumped into traffic over it yet. Hope this helps you at least a little bit.

As long as you haven't sealed it yet you should be able to go over the black dye with your roon as it is just the same as if you were applying another dye treatment. However, you still may want to test it and being as it is a belt just test about 1 inch on the buckle end as it will be hidden from view anyway if it doesn't come out the way you want. It does sound like your initial dye application was not very heavy so it didn't get into the fiber of the leather very well. What type of leather were you using for the belt? If it is any type that is oil tanned and waxed that would limit your dye as well.

Could you imagine what the activists would do over this? They would crucify anyone who thought that this was acceptable. But you are right, it doesn't mean that it can't exist and I think it isn't too far fetched when you consider all of the other "questionable" things that people are buying or designing. Would this be attached via a belt loop flap or a holster clip?

Welcome back Tom, we can wait for you to catch up on your real job. Keep getting better.

And Chief is exactly correct. Saddle Lac is a Fiebing's product (and always has been) while the Clear-Lac is the exact same formula as the original Neat-Lac was (guess because it is the same manufacturer who, by the way, also markets it under the name of Wyo-Sheen I believe) and that product works just as well today as it did in 1974. I use it for top finish, resist, and just about everything else it can be used for. Great product and you won't disappointed.

I too use Etsy for my online presence and have had no issues with customers and the ordering process. I accept both Direct Checkout and PayPal (and when you add it all up through both systems the difference is only .5% from one to the next) and all orders are paid for in advance. As mentioned by others before me communication is the most important thing within the Etsy world and as long as you are clear and concise in your information and manage all of it through their Convo system you will be much better off. The other key thing is to put your processes, time frames, and shipping methods into your policies because if your policies are lacking (and there are a large number of sellers who have none at all) then Etsy will leave you hanging because you didn't follow protocol. Make sure that you provide an approximate time frame for each project/item and always add a little extra for that "just in case" moment. I utilize the item options as much as possible but they are very limited if you have complex projects. Back to the policies side of the house; I make it clear in my policies that work will begin upon verification and receipt of payment (not when they sit back and wait for it and decide to get around to it) and I also use this same tactic for any "external from Etsy" orders where I have to send them an invoice via PayPal or Square. I don't start anything until the payment has processed and it is in my account because I am not going to be left holding the bag on anything. And when you do get that "special" customer who wants you to make something for them before they pay for it, just kindly remind them of what your policies are and invite them to take their business elsewhere if they disagree with them. There is nothing wrong with saying "no" to a difficult customer; it just hasn't been done enough so they don't understand what it means. Good luck with your ventures and hope to see your shop soon.

I have to agree with texback, I have never seen anything other than the spray saddle lac with Tandy. That is why I buy a quart of Clear-Lac and use it. I have used it with the Eco-Flo Antique's before without any issue but I am not a fan of the eco stuff as there is a high level of rub-off, bleed, etc. depending on which finish you use and I have been using the Fiebing's product line since I started with leather in the 70's and know exactly how it reacts with the finishes and what you can do with it. Guess you can say that I going with the old saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Although you find them used in several commercial models the majority of these magnets are very weak and don't pose much of risk as most modern devices do incorporate some shielding against ambient magnetic forces. However, using a rare earth version could pose an issue as they are typically natural in their magnetic properties and much stronger. The biggest issues where a magnet will affect anything is with your SIM cards and any added data cards; just like an old school computer disk or a CD, if you hit it with a magnet you will basically erase the data on it and we all know that the cards in our phones are what contain all of the operating systems and our favorite apps and other stuff. I prefer to use a snap for mine as Velcro doesn't hold up to the constant use as well as a snap. I try not to use a magnet on anything that is intended for use with electronics. As Ray said though, there may be other opinions here or even from outside of these forums so if you run across anything that is definitive (and sound in it's science) that is probably your best bet.

If you are just trying to resist the colored/specific detail areas then spraying the entire project with a resist becomes counter-productive. However, another great resist is Clear-Lac (available from LCI and Springfield Leather) which we all know as Neat-Lac (at least if you have been doing for a long time). It is a spirit based product that seals very well but you need to let it set for at 24 hours as well (as you should do with all resists or even as a finish). It is better when doing resists that you use either an antique or a light stain but if you have the resist dry properly (and for the time indicated) you should have no issues. The biggest issues that seem to be talked about are regarding color bleed; if the project has not been over oiled, has been properly stained/dyed (which includes 24 hour dry/cure time and proper buffing), and then allowed to properly dry/cure after applying your top sealer then you should not see any issues (and that pretty much goes with any product). I add an extra step of buffing my dyed/stained project after it has set for 24 hours with a damp cloth which helps trap that extra pigment that you don't get with a dry cloth. Once I am finished I let it dry for 12 hours before I go to the next step. One other thing to remember is that if you oil your projects then you need to let the oil cure for 24 hours as well and try to refrain from using any finishes that include oils or heavy waxes/conditioners as they are just adding oil to the oil level which can also result in color bleed. As with everything new that you try, try it on a practice piece of leather first (or a project that has already found the scrap bin because of a mistake; who knows, it might turn out okay once colored) to make sure that you get the results you are looking for and that you can get the feel for the techniques required to achieve your look.

One thing that I was taught long ago was to not cut as deep as originally recommended (i.e. approximately half the thickness of the leather). Instead, cut slightly less than half the thickness so that when you bevel, and background where necessary you actually bevel and background to the approximate half thickness level but you will not see the "white" (the prominent grain of the cut line) and your definition of the pattern will be more prominent. The issue of taking on an undercut look can be attributed to improper casing of the leather (would make it feel firmer and resist beveling and burnishing as it is too dry) as well as improper tool angle (even tipped slightly forward it can still create an undercut look). The use of any conditioner prior to dyeing/staining is going to create a color issue as it creates a "block" so that the grain can not absorb the color as intended. Conditioners are not part of the tooling/stamping phase, they are a finish to the finished/colored project. From the images that you provided I don't see an undercut look but I do see that the cuts are deeper than the beveling depth; your beveling depth should, as a minimum, be as deep as the bottom of the cut so that you get a smooth transition/appearance to your beveling. And from the looks of it the leather was a bit dry so you didn't get the depth that you should have and you didn't get a good burnishing from the beveling. Someone else may see something different so take all of it in and put some of it to use in practice pieces and always continue to refine and practice every technique. Been doing this for over 40 years and it never ends when it comes to the learning and refining.

King's X hit it on the head. This is the same book that I was taught from decades ago and I can tell you that there is nothing like it when it comes to giving insight into how to use every tool and master your knife cuts. It is the best investment that you will make, aside from just about everything else that Al Stohlman (and his wife) wrote. And the best way to improve: practice, practice, practice, and it doesn't happen overnight. Mastering the cuts to where it just becomes an automatic function and form takes awhile to refine but patience and practice will get you there.

You can get them from Springfield Leather, Tandy Leather, or you can check out Ohio Travel Bag's website as well. The Pyramid's are spots and not rivets. And I agree with BIGGUN, if I were to pay that much for a dog collar (and I won't because I make them for sale and for my own pets anyway) then the edges had darn sure better be finished (and that is why I do).

Pure Olive Oil is fine as it is all natural with nothing added.

If it were me personally, I would use PURE Neatsfoot Oil, not the Compound product. I would oil it very well on the grain side and give it a few coatings to make sure that it got in good and deep. To get the tanned tone you then hang it outside in the sunlight and allow it tan (leather will tan just like our own skin, but thank goodness it doesn't burn and we have to hear about it for the next week). Pure Olive oil will also give you a deeper color but it can sometimes get real dark. I too use Hermann Oak leather and it is already a russet color when you compare it to some of those Albino looking leathers (which are tanned outside the U.S. just so everybody knows). Neither of these products contain the toxic stuff so you should be good and the only "leaching" effect you may see is if you over oil the item you will see some oil residuals (but it washes out pretty good. You can also use any NATURAL conditioner that has been designed specifically for leather if you run across them.

Be careful about selling belts as you will find that you will never have the size anyone needs on hand and if you do anything to them (stamp/carve and tool) you will never have the design or color that people want. I don't even have finished belts in my studio; I have a sampling of various designs and color combinations (all from previously made belts) that I put out and when someone asks we start the process of creating their custom belt and getting the proper measurements. You can however come up with some small items such as card wallets, coin purses, and things like that as they tend to be just like an impulse buy item.