NVLeatherWorx

Their Premium hides are about the same as Tandy's Oak-Leaf grade and they are tanned in Mexico at the same tannery. If you purchase from Hide House just get the Hermann Oak sides from them.

I use my regular website as a "teaching and information" tool and conduct all of my online sales through Etsy with the remainder coming from face-to-face sales that I get at local/regional events and fairs. My Etsy Shop is linked to my main website (it actually has its own page there) and my Etsy Shop has links to my Facebook page and standard website. I use Etsy as my online outlet because it is so much easier than having to try and setup all of the various elements that go into creating an actual e-Commerce website or an internal module for it within a standard website. Between my face-to-face orders (which are the bulk of what I get) and everything else I am quite satisfied with how it all comes out. Just a heads up though, it may take a little bit of time to get your first sale on a site like Etsy but you will get it much faster than if you were to have a full e-Commerce site setup. The key is how you use each element (website, Etsy, Facebook, etc.) that you attach to your name/brand and how they are linked together.

Or you can just get a can of the spray on Saddle-Lac (it is pretty much the same thing as Clear-Lac) and you should be fine. However, when using acrylic paints you should follow the same application process as you would with a regular colored dye when doing your detail: apply it straight to the leather, let is set for at least 24 hours, then you can apply your Clear-Lac over the top of it without much, if any, issue. Acrylic paints work just like the dyes and liquid stains; if you apply them OVER the top of a finish you don't get as much penetration into the leather as when you allow it full access to the pore structure of the grain. If it is an element of detail that needs to "shine through" then you apply your resist (that would be your lacquer or acrylic top sealer), allow it to properly set/dry, then apply your final main (base) color. However, if your base color is a dye or liquid stain then you need to detail brush it around the areas to remain colored so that you don't cover over the detail. There are plenty of informational/instructional books on this subject and they literally cover every possible method of achieving the final results that you are looking for. It is too bad that is isn't taught like it used to be, it was so much more educational back then.

If I may suggest, to get the true color out of each one of the colors you might want to apply a coating (not too heavy) of Pure Neatsfoot Oil over the top of your swatches. If you do, you will notice a darkening of the overall product but you will also notice that the haze look goes away and you get a natural glow to the finish; just let it set in for a day before you evaluate the final look. And to be fair to yourself and your customers, you will want to apply the final top coat finish that you plan on using as a standard sealant (Satin Sheen, Resolene, Clear-Lac, Bag Balm w/Atom Wax, etc.) which will give you the overall finished look that they will get. Also keep in mind that every piece of leather you dye will come out looking different due to the way that each cell absorbs the dyes and finishes; this is unavoidable and guaranteed to happen. Using the Oil Dyes is the smartest route to go because the standard dyes will really dry you leather out and shrink the you know what out of it unless you heavily oil it prior to application (which creates a whole different mess to deal with later) and there is no need to have the colors such as the reds, blues, etc.; just use the natural tones (and black of course). If you ever have to do some color detail dyeing such as floral or figure carvings, then you want to use the Spirit Dyes as they are the best for that and then you only need the basic colors as you can create all of the custom shades through blending (and there are books on that topic when you decide it is time to learn more). I have been working with their dyes since I started my education/training process in this trade (over 40 years ago now) and I can tell you that you should only keep the basic colors on hand as the in between colors can also be created if needed but they are not common nor popular. The basics that I have always maintained are: Black, Light Brown, Dark Brown, Saddle Tan, and Mahogany as these are the common colors that you will find out there in overwhelming use and you can create the in between shades of browns by blending and/or thinning. Even better is the fact that you can also use the Fiebing's Antique Paste's as an additive to the dyes to create even more unique shades and colors. You can drop me a line anytime for a question if you need to.

They quit doing rattlesnake quite awhile back; however, the local stores do have the ability to purchase special items from local trappers/tanners so if they are still available then that is how. My local store deals with one of the Native American Tribes in my area for Coyote skins but they only do it when someone comes in and requests the special order. The nice thing about Springfield Leather is that they also carry a few other snake skins such as Cobra (with the head still attached; makes an awesome finished item if used right) and other unique skins. And thank you for your kind words on my works.

If you are purchasing rattlesnake skins from Tandy then you are buying a product that is not part of their company inventory. Tandy Leather only sells Python skins and I have never had an issue with the scales coming off. One little trick that I picked up years ago was to seal the finish (in this case the scales) by applying a top coat sealant; I use the Clear-Lac from LCI and I make sure that it gets under the scales so it acts like a glue. However, I have found that it is a common practice to use snakeskin as if it were a main material, it is intended to be used as an inlay material only. I purchase my snakeskin from Springfield Leather.

I have been doing this trade for over 40 years and have never been taught nor even heard of removing the scales from a snakeskin. The scales are what gives you the true vibrancy of the pattern and gives the finished the product the authenticity that a consumer wants when spending the money that you do for a real snakeskin item. Furthermore, a professionally tanned snakeskin has never lost any of the scales, at the least the ones that I use haven't. The biggest problem here is those home tanners who do snakeskin's that they have harvested locally and use the home method which is just short of embalming which dries out the skin and causes the scales to flake off. If you are going to make something with snakeskin then bite the bullet and pay for a professionally tanned skin, otherwise you will end up with a sad looking piece of snakeskin that has no real character.

My method of leaving a natural finish has been the same since I started this trade over 40 years ago (and it was the taught method back then). Make sure the leather is clean and dry; don't use saddle soap as it tends to leave residue and is only intended for use on heavily soiled leather (read the directions for use carefully). I give it an Oxalic Acid treatment and then let it dry completely; once dry I apply Pure Neatsfoot Oil to the grain side of the leather and allow it to set for 24 hours; once the first application has set I give it another application and let it set for 24 hours. The final step of the process is to give the leather a series of light coatings of Clear Lac Leather Finish from LCI. The Clear Lac finish gives the leather a nice solid protection without making the leather stiff and it also includes some conditioning agents that help with the Neatsfoot Oil. The trick is to not over apply the oil as it will darken the leather if too heavy; the Neat Lac won't darken the leather at all. The use of Olive Oil has often been recommended but it darkens the leather drastically and it does not allow for a return to the natural look; it stays dark and very dark. My philosophy is now, and always has been, if it ain't broke, don't fix it; and I figure that since this is the way we were taught back in the day and the resources are still available today, why change it? We all have different sources of information or our own view on what the best process is so this is just another one of those "this is how I do it", if you have a method that works for you then stick with with it.

@Redochre Send me a PM with a listing of the current tools that you have (by the numbers engraved on them) and I will get you some solid replacement ideas, if you would like of course. Also, if you are using the poly head mallet that came with the kit, replace it with a rawhide mallet as soon as you can. It does make a difference in how the tooling feels when you are working it.

I believe the carving pattern is from the Belts Billfolds Alphabets download but it is a combination of two elements from that page. The actual design style for the components (if you need that) can be drawn from the Craftsman Instruction Book. Both of these are available as downloads from the Leathercraft Library. Here is the one that I see as being the match:

And that may be because the email link for their contact form is still going to the inbox of a FORMER employee. If you need the direct email address I may still have it, just PM me.

That is from one of Al Stohlman's vintage pattern packs and I believe that I may still have it. It is also available through Tandy Leather's Leathercraft Library.

Welcome Barbara. As Sona said, don't worry about how your language comes across, we can read between the lines (and I can read, write and speak German; 14 years stationed in Bavaria does wonders for that). Feel free to ask any of us anything that your heart desires to learn, I am sure that someone here can get you on the right track. And yes, it is a virus and it is incurable; I have had it for over 40 years and have learned to live with it.

Very beautiful indeed.

Here is something else for you to think about. If you continue to have these issues with the store just contact the corporate offices via their contact form on the website and start voicing your discontent there. I have found that anytime a customer has an issue within the stores that the entire thing is kept quiet among the staff members and never gets out to higher levels; not even as an explanation as to why the store may have done an exchange or given you a reduced/special offer to smooth things over. I have had to contact corporate for a few things and have even ended being contacted by a Regional Manager regarding a couple of issues and it helped; there were changes made within the store (staff and operations) and the customer service climate got better. Down side is that there was a recent shake-up in staff where just about everyone was replaced with newbies and now there isn't a single person in the store who even knows the difference in the kinds of leather or qualities. And that is why I don't do my leather business with them; they are okay for the little things that I need but the leather is handled by other sources. And I get higher quality leather for less than I would be able to get from them. Anyway, good luck with your endeavors and hope things get better for you.

It is strange that none of the Bible stuff got a look especially for being at a Church. There are so many "fakers" and "fly-by-nighters" marketing all of that foreign stuff or who are pretending to be an outlet for wholesale stuff (garbage more correctly) that it is difficult to try and introduce a new novelty item such as the baseballs. You will find that no matter what type of event crowd a market/fair may be directed towards or regardless of where the venue is that there is no fast and true method of determining what is going to sell. I have spent hours putting together a biker related line of products to have, in addition to my normal layout, in support of a biker's event and not one darn biker item sold. Had no issues moving anything else but not the biker stuff. A couple of weeks later I was participating in a local celebration (this is an annual event) for one of the historical mining towns in my area and moved just about every piece of the biker stuff that I had made for the other event. And the funniest thing of all was that none of the buyers were bikers nor were they buying for anyone who was. Guess if we ever were to figure out how to forecast what will sell based on location and targeted attendance we would be making way too much money to be doing any of this stuff ourselves.

What is wrong with keeping your purchases inside the U.S.A.? There isn't anything available from a book from another country that can't be found right here without a little searching and I know from experience that the vast majority of the patterns and ideas are available without having to go overseas. I too speak other languages (several as a matter of fact thanks to the U.S. Army and my career requirements) but that doesn't meant that I need to go to an alternate source for things because they are supposedly better. I have been doing leather work for over 40 years and have yet to go outside of the available information sources right here at home for a pattern or other idea; found it all just by looking for it or, the best method of all, creating my own unique version of something. Personal creativity goes much farther than any book will ever take you. No intention to offend anyone here but the more we look outside of our own Country (and that goes for anyone, anywhere) the more we lose our uniqueness and start to become just another minion of the foreign influence.

Neat little table arrangement there Stewart. However, if I may make a suggestion? Be careful doing anything that has a licensed Trademark or Copyright item (cartoon characters, official sports logos, etc.) as that is against the law (unless you have a written document from the attorney's who represent the Trademark or Copyright owner giving you permission to do so). I say this because it has become a common thing to find crafters of all types getting themselves in hot water over the use of such things and there are several cases where the crafter has lost all of their equipment, supplies, etc. plus hefty fines (even know of a couple that lost their homes in the lawsuits). Don't mean to rain on your parade but I hate to see fellow craftsmen fall into this trap and find themselves losing everything over a stupid yellow bird or some black and white cat that can't speak clearly. The baseballs are a nice touch, do they sell well?

Wow! I would have thought that you would get more out of them with as much detail is put into it. I am assuming that you do this as a quasi hobby then? If not and you are in it for the business, you can get closer to $100+ for them. Those are beautiful and I know that you put some time into each one.

The scales are what makes the snakeskin have the bold character that it does. Just imagine doing the same thing to a fish. Every notice how colorful and vibrant some of those Rainbow Trout are and then you remove all of the scales and now you are left with a pale looking piece of meat.

I am sure that you can find some embossed versions from either Tandy or even Springfield Leather. However, don't be callin' them tooled as they are not. Embossed is the cheap way out; tooled is a beautiful work of art that takes heart and soul in completing a beautiful quality product.

I too order mine online from Springfield Leather. Tandy has started to carry some of the Hermann Oak leathers but they are WAY TOO high priced, even at the best price level (which I get as a business). I even showed them where I can get my H.O. from either Springfield Leather in Missouri or from The Hide House in Napa, California for much, much less when compared to their price and they had nothing to say. It amazes me that they think we will buy from them just because they may be more conveniently located than having to order online but when I can get the same leather for 2/3 (or less) than the price they have for me and get it shipped to me and still save a large chunk of change, guess where I am going? Springfield Leather is easy to work with and they are great people so it really makes the process so simple.

The most common suede's are cowhide and pigskin (and they are also the most durable) and they are the portion of a hide that has been split away from the full-grain section (this is what they do with the splits when making the thinner weight sides). To get the nap the split is run through a brushing mechanism that slowly raises the nap on each of the split; the more course/firm the brush, the more nap you get. To ensure that you are getting a quality suede you should always purchase it from a supplier or directly from the tannery. I would not recommend attempting to make your own.

One would think that by now she has forgotten about this board and moved on. Not even an update as to what has sold and what still remains. Bet they ended up going out on eBay for a couple hundred bucks (which is typical for a lot like that).

The pricing game is always a tough one and everyone will have a different method to it. When it comes to a standard, run of the mill, key fob I set my price for a stamped version at $5.00 and a carved & tooled version at $10.00; my price always includes my sales tax and for that I just add the highest rate for my State as I tend to travel around where each County has a different rate. However, that pricing is for what is on hand; in other words the Cash & Carry products. If a person wants me to make them a fob to their specifications then it would most likely cost more as there is almost always a bunch of extra stuff that they want. I have had one custom ordered with a stamped border around the edge, a Carved & Tooled Old English Monogram, and they wanted the edge laced. That one went for $25.00 plus shipping (no tax added here as it was to be shipped out of State). That is the way I do things but one thing I always try to do when pricing my Cash & Carry stuff is to make sure that I cover my materials and a larger portion of my time. There is some truth to the statement "a cheap price often gives the impression of a cheaply made item" and I don't list my stuff cheap; I list it fair enough to gain a little profit but any time a custom order is made based on what is on display I always do a full work up and quote to the client and I explain to them going into it that the price for a custom item will be different than that on the display item and I tell them why. No matter what, never sell yourself short for anyone or for any reason.