NVLeatherWorx

Yup, you have to take all of those questions from Tex Shooter into consideration but @stamphandj brings up a point that also helps me. I am also a veteran and have my Veteran's Healthcare which does what it needs to do along with the fact of being retired after 24 years of service which gets me into pretty much any Hospital around for much less than any private sector insurance policy would. With that being said, I could pretty much make the plunge into it full time with an outlook towards $36,000 to $40,000 per year. That is not an overly high income for a one-person shop so if you decided you would end up needing more, you would need to generate the interest, bring in help to meet the demand, and of course shoot for even more because you also have the expenses of an employee. The bottom line is that unless you are charging an outrageous price for your goods, you will pretty much be on the lower level of revenue as a one-person operation. And you would not be making much profit on that wage scale either because you have all of your business and personal expenses that take it all away. I have seen some examples of work that have a very hefty price tag yet the quality is not worthy of what is listed. That is what happens when you HAVE to make a certain wage but haven't yet mastered some of the technique to justify that NEED. Not what you wanted to hear but don't know what else to tell you.

The age old method of making beautiful edges requires a sponge, a little bit of water, and a slicking device (I use the same old wooden edger that I have had for a few years now). The first step is to use an edger (number 2 is the best unless you need a thicker skive) on both sides of the leather, moisten the edge and let it start to dry until damp, then just rub the edge fast enough to generate the heat needed to give the burnished appearance. The use of "quickies" like soaps, oils, spirits, etc. is just a shortcut and it doesn't allow the leather to actually be burnished (which is what you are really doing). You can only get a true sealed and set edge by doing a real burnish job on it. Besides, the use of saddle soaps is not a good idea on veg-tan leather as it will actually draw the natural oils out of the leather and dry it out.

Another way to get your stitching lines on the straight path is to use a stitching groover and scribe your sew lines into the leather. On a piece that is made from veg-tan all around, you will need to gouge both sides of the leather that are exposed to view. This groove helps to keep your punching lines right as well as gives the thread a recessed channel that it will lay into which gives the stitches a nice, tight appearance. If you would like an example of what I am talking about let me know and I can try and get you an image.

By the way Cheryl, I to have an Etsy shop. You can find it at https://www.etsy.com/shop/rhardiecustomleather.

If you use your regular inventory of veg-tanned leather you can still get it to lay down by just oiling it up until it has the pliability and flexibility that you are looking for. Being as you are looking to make saddle bags this is a standard necessity anyway as they are going to be exposed to the elements. The other leathers (non veg-tanned) aren't really good about accepting oils as the fiber structure is a bit different as a result of the process. When oiling, oil both sides and let it soak in for at least 24 hours. Check the feel and flex, if it needs more, repeat the process. Saddles get heavily oiled so why shouldn't the saddle bags?

@kelleybean: If you are looking to continue the hand-stitching legacy and your immediate source is a local Tandy store then you can use the waxed nylon or waxed linen threads as they are thinner than the stuff you are talking about. They are only available in 25 yard mini-spools but they don't cost a bunch and work real well. You can also spend a bit more to get a bit more and actually buy the spools of sewing awl thread from Tandy. All of these options are specifically designed for immediate hand-stitching use without have to split it down. I use all of these for routine items and find them to be quite easy to work with. I still have several spools of that thicker stuff around but I have been using for decades and have learned how to split it down to the number of strands that I need for any given application. I do all of my sewing by hand as it is still more durable than any machine sewn lock-stitch (although there are some here who would disagree).

Hi Cheryl, I have found that your niche today may not be your niche tomorrow, especially if your primary audience is the local Craft Fair/Market/Show group or the Etsy viewers. I attend at least two fairs/markets/shows per month alone and they are always in conjunction with a major event and/or at highly prominent locations in my area and every day the "public interest" is in something different. I have been working with leather for over 40 years now and have always maintained my styling towards the traditional carved & tooled designs but have also incorporated the simplistic stamped patterns and even added Celtic and a smattering of tribal type patterns (that seems to be the big "kick" right now). I have found that taking on custom orders for what the people are looking for is the most profitable but I make it clear up front that things don't happen overnight. I provide realistic quotes that ensure that I am compensated fairly for my time and materials (although nowhere near what the "mentors" or Etsy suggest as it can not be achieved as we are ultimately dealing with lower income groups who still think that the Mega-Mart's of the world provide a quality item that is a value) and then I quote them a realistic time frame based on the level of work and where it all plays into what I already have on the board. Your niche should be your work which is your product, the leather parts that it goes on and the way that it is all put together is the medium that you put your product on, nothing more. Don't start selling yourself off by lowering your prices just because someone says your price is a little too high, especially if the quality of your work is where the price suggests. Take a long look at some of the leather goods being sold on Etsy or other sites and compare how your work looks against theirs, then look at the pricing against yours and see how it all stacks up. If your work is obviously cleaner, crisper and more professional yet your price is lower than what the lesser product is, you can get your answer on that topic. No matter what, just remember that your product is YOU and YOUR WORK.

I don't concern myself with all of this twist stuff and other techno babble anymore as once you have your techniques down and your skills are refined you could make barbed wire look great. I purchase my threads pre-waxed but always give them an extra treatment or two to make sure that they are properly covered. Oh, I also wax my leather lace prior to use. The wax is intended to be a conditioner and helps keep the strands together during the process (for the lace it keeps it from premature wear and failure due to the stresses and friction caused while pulling it through the lacing slits). I also keep a couple spools of 9 strand waxed nylon on hand that I usually break down into whatever strand configuration I want to create for those special times when you just need a little more or a little less.

Or, if you buy your stuff at a local Tandy store, you can purchase a spool of the natural calf lace and dye it any color that you desire. Roo lace is the bomb though.

If you are making items that will have heavy exposure to the sun and outdoor elements, directly, then go with a poly thread as it is the best when it comes to UV resistance. Otherwise just go with either a nylon or linen as they have a very good tensile strength and are easier to work with because they can be waxed. I use both on my designs, nylon for all interior assemblies and linen for primary edge assembly. I also do all of my stitching by hand as there is yet to be a machine made that will replicate the interlocking strength of the saddle stitch, they only do a lock stitch and we all know that when a stitch breaks the whole thing comes apart. There are those who will try and sell you on a specific direction or idea because that is what they do but the bottom line is to find what works for you and meets your needs as it is your work on the line and not theirs. If you have a brand that is meeting is your needs and expectations then stick with it. Just remember, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and you will always be right.

If you are gluing regular fabric to the leather then you might want to try a water based contact cement such as what Tandy offers and apply it very thin then let it set until it is just tacky and then apply your fabric making sure that you keep it smooth. If the fabric is a bit more sturdy or has a backing then use a permanent contact cement. Just like the water based though you want to apply it very thin and let it set until it is just tacky before you apply your lining. I use both so I know they work well. Best idea is to use some scraps and give it a test run to see how it works for you.

It was indeed done with a Sheridan style beveler as it is very steep. However, to get a cleaner, crisper looking beveled edge on any pattern, you can get this result by cutting the lines in a different manner. We have all been taught that the proper cut of the lines should be 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of the leather and that has been true for a very long time. However, once you have the leather properly cased, and I mean properly cased not just sponged to wetness, once the leather starts to return to the original color, all you need to do is cut the lines a little less deep than you would normally. Still bevel with the same force as you normally wood and will achieve the proper depth but the lines will be so much cleaner and more prominent. I tried it myself not too long ago and struggled with the idea as I had been taught that you cut to the half thickness of the leather, period. That was over 40 years ago. But I have to admit that the beveled edges are much cleaner and stand out much more against the rest of pattern which makes a beautiful finished product. I have always cut and beveled all of my lettering and I actually use a very large beveler because it has a steeper face but the width helps to achieve the more consistent look. Give the other method a try though and see how it works for you, you might be pleasantly surprised.

@wolfwomanjo: The Rodeo is similar to the Marketplace as far as how the top forms up into the handles and it is on a round bottom gusset base. The biggest difference though is that the Rodeo has a very prominent taper from bottom to top (small bottom and large top, I believe it is about a 6" base with the top being almost the same 14" as the Marketplace). I find it difficult to get the Rodeo into the hands of people as they see the loss of space of due to the taper but the Marketplace is a very popular item with me. I even had to make one for my accountant and marketing person (my wife) as she felt she couldn't get the kitchen sink into her other purse. She finally got it with the Marketplace though. Although I use some of the older/Vintage patterns for a base, I design my own accents such as pockets, etc. (we all know that we can't live without all that gadgetry) and for her Marketplace I had to actually make a pocket for her Nook eReader. Oh the joy of making custom items.

@wolfwomanjo: Sounds like, from the description provided, that this bag is similar in design to what has been called the Rodeo in the handbag pattern pack from the Leathercraft Library. However, it doesn't have the handle loop section as it has been replaced with two short strap handles. Am I correct in the basic body design shape though? If not, could you send me a copy of this pattern, it sounds interesting and would be a great addition to the already large list of handbag patterns that I have collected over the decades.

I have my own website which I manage myself as well as an Etsy shop and a full schedule of local Craft fairs for handcrafted items only. The sales are hit and miss across the board as the economics of our customer base and their available expendable income fluctuate. I can say from the Etsy point that there is nothing that has come from it and it has nothing to do with the image quality or description information. Etsy is like the eBay of craft shop listings, everyone is looking for "cheapo-depot" pricing and they want the item right now. I am a custom maker and the Etsy rules and restrictions do not work for that kind of market regardless of how they advertise their features. For the craft shows/markets I always have my "available now" items such as key fobs, some wallets, belts and few other small to mid sized items. I also take my entire workshop (tools, projects, etc.) and have an active work station everywhere I go. That is the best thing of all when you are trying to showcase how and why your product is better than what can be found elsewhere. I see, on average, approximately 100 business cards per day go out and I receive about a 15% return contact for a custom item from each day. Average price for each custom order is approximately $65.00 +/- and nobody ever asks why I quote the turn time on the project. They get it by seeing what actually goes into the making of things. And, best of all, I promote the fact that every piece is cut by hand from sides/skins, etc. and not drawn from kits as you find just about every other Etsy seller is doing and that is all you find at your typical craft market. It is amazing when people see you cutting project parts from a side of leather and then moving through the process of putting your designs/pattern layouts onto that leather and turning them into works of art. Being able to see this gives them the knowledge that they are purchasing a quality item that will last far longer than anything else that they can find anywhere else. I even have a few kits lying around just so that they can compare the quality of leather and other materials to those drawn from the premium U.S. materials that I use. That alone is enough to get sales and I have no intention of changing that. Besides, doing everything from raw resources costs 30% of what purchasing kits costs and that is even if you have the best wholesale pricing plan from anywhere and the maximization of your dollars and profit margins can't be compared. Facebook is nothing more than an additional advertising venue, it is not a solid source for sales and will never really be a player in that market. The same holds true for the other social media venues, they are okay to draw attention but the majority of their users are there to socialize and create "friends" and "likes" in the hopes of achieving popularity, nothing more. There are other venues as well, such as Custom Made for example. Great marketing to drag you in but once you get on their list of Makers you find that the vast majority of people looking to contract you are looking to have you make their entire retail line at less than real costs so that they can charge premium for "their" product which is your work and designs. I have told many in that category to take a flying leap at a rolling doughnut and go away. I am not a wholesaler and I definitely do not work for less than overseas slave labor rates per piece.

Hide House is also a source for HO veg-tan and for me is a day trip which allows me to walk into their warehouse and hand select my hides. Not to mention, being a registered business I get the bottom line pricing. I also get the same support from SLC and have no problem having it shipped to me. I do use my local Tandy store for small, last minute things and haven't used a kit in over 30 years. I have been designing my own products and templates for a long time and can't see any reason to stop. Take the Top Notch wallet kit for example, Tandy sells it for about $20.00, the back is cheap veg-tan, the linings are hard as a rock, the lace is the cheapest and thinnest 3/32" I have ever seen, and the parts never fit together. When I make that exact same thing from my own Premium stocks, my cost is under $5.00, only the best piece finds itself as the back, my lining leathers are clean, soft, and consistent, my lace is Premium Calf that actually comes in at 3/32", and all of my parts fit right the first time without any risk of having to reshape them. When Tandy quit being a Leathercrafters supply depot, they lost their following and the respect of even the hobbiests in the market.

Don't know how much response you will receive as you are basically asking if someone can help you violate a copyright and/or trademark by copying a registered item. Everything that is made by a major designer is registered for copyright and trademark protection which prohibits us law abiding craftsmen and artisans from taking on such work. Sorry to break it to you that way but it is not good business for someone to take such actions and copy items. I am sure that there are many of us who would offer to make you a replacement wallet, from our own designs and product lines. Good luck in your search.

If you sell wholesale to anyone you need to make it clear that they can not sell the item at retail for less than you would or have advertised. If they want to charge more that is fine but they CAN NOT sell for less. This keeps a potential customer/customer from seeing your work out there at a cheaper price from somewhere else. You also need to go with your gut on the concept of having your name all over it. It is your work and yours alone. I have turned down several such requests due to the retailer wanting me to brand the product under their name even though I have done all of the design work and handcrafting of the products. I have made my life easy by not doing wholesale or consignment. Regarding payment, 50% up front with the rest being invoiced and due prior to final assembly. Put it in writing and get a real signature on the agreement. Make sure they understand that the upfront portion is non-refundable and that all future orders will be done the same way and subject to your acceptance. No long-term agreements, do them on the basis of them placing an active order when they need product.

I would have asked her to let her husband know that he needs to contact me with his issue being as HE is my customer and not her. Further, all repairs are done to the customer's specifications and request, which is what you did, so that means that if it is wrong it is because HE did not provide proper information which is too bad, so sad. I won't even return or replace a custom belt that I do if the fit is wrong because the customer did not follow proper measuring procedures. I stress this point repeatedly and make it very clear that if it doesn't fit because you gave the wrong information, too bad. I provide detailed instructions of exactly how to measure their waist and make it very clear that this is the number that it will be made to. I also explain to them that if they are currently dieting or trying to lose weight, they need to wait until they have achieved their goal and then get back to me. In your situation, giving him back his money made you feel better but it did nothing to save your reputation. I have even asked people just like this to no longer be a client of mine as my right to refuse service to a difficult person or scammer is in my best interest. They can talk all they want, who are they talking to anyway? People with the same mentality as they have so what difference does it make? You just saved yourself from further scamming and abuse. Now that is more than $0.02 worth but it isn't taxable so not a big deal.

If I was still living there I would be glad to help you out. I lived in a small village just North of Erlangen for over 14 years. Eventually had to return home (here in the U.S.) as Uncle Sam needed me elsewhere. If you can get into The Bear Gallery, do so. It is a sight to see. If you make the trip to the States then make it a point to try and schedule it around the major trade shows, especially the Sheridan show. Good luck and good tooling.

Never heard of the Eco-Flo acrylic causing that issue with cracking but if you use Fiebing's, and I highly recommend that you do, then you need to use the Acrylic Resolene that they make as the finish. It is a much better product and does not create any issues. Might I also highly suggest that prior to any dyeing/staining, etc. that you first replenish the lost oils from the casing and stamping/tooling processes by applying a good coating of Neetsfoot Oil and letting it penetrate (dry) overnight. Does wonders to the leather.

And for all of the issues that everyone has pointed out above, I always hand-stitch. I learned this way, I made saddles this way, and I will die doing it this way. The stitches are stronger and a machine can not replicate the durability obtained by the saddle stitch.

The pebble design is a newer tool and I use it frequently. I have all three of the stamps for the set as they each have a place for use. The smallest is used to get up close to the beveled and cut edges as well as in all of the tight or small areas. The medium sized tool gives you the ability to handle the larger areas and the largest stamp is for the main parts. Key here with these types of stamps is to ensure plenty of overlap and don't worry if about how much overlap. The final appearance is always very clear and clean. For those areas that look like they are raised a little, just use the large stamp on them to even out the look. Make sure that the leather is on the drier side of the moisture content so that you don't get the mushy look or feel. Regarding the dyes, stains and finishes: If you want to use the oil based versions, go for it. If you use the regular spirit dyes (which I use for all of my color detail work) give it a final finish of Neatsfoot oil. I also use the antique paste finishes (it is an excellent stain) but if you are using in a resisted technique or over full color details you will want to first protect those areas with a leather lacquer (Springfield Leather sells one that is just like the original Neat-Lac I used to use) as today's acrylic finishes don't work with spirit and oil based liquids. The acrylic is a great finishing coating on all finishes but only works as a resist for the water based products. If you want to learn more about how to blend and mix for custom colors there are books on this very topic. There is a more modern one available from Fiebing on their site or you can go to the Leathercraft Library (run by Tandy) and download the books by Al Stohlman. I have used his references since I started in this trade over 40 years ago and learned much from him through his books and teachings. Hope this helps.

From QuickBooks look at the Premiere edition. It gives you everything you need to include the inventory management aspects that even gives you the ability to create a bill of materials and everything associated with the manufacturing portion. The price is hefty but you can assign everything to a specific line on Schedule C form for tax purposes so that when you print your end of year report you get it all lined out for you. There is another software package available from a company called Acclivity that does the same thing for a bit less than QuickBooks. I have been using their package, called AccountEdge for several years (used to be called MYOB) and they have always had the ability to create components and finished products from raw materials (this is new to QuickBooks). Stay clear of the enterprise editions as they are extremely pricy and meant for large corporations, not the private small business.

Doesn't anyone believe in doing it the way it used to be? By hand?