NVLeatherWorx

I have a CustomMade account and can tell you that the majority of the people who are looking to have custom made items are actually looking for some poor sap to make their product line because they don't know how to. I have not yet found one single individual who was looking for that unique custom item for a friend or as a gift to someone. Every contact that I have started ends up asking for 1000 units per month on an item that you have to design, support and make and then adds on the fact that their research indicates that each piece can be done for x dollars (which is way off on all levels) which they will then sell under their brand and market as their original and unique designs and craftsmanship. When it comes to our art form, it is better to just market yourself through your own sources and stay away from these places. Besides, if you take a look at the majority of those selling in the leather category, you will find that the quality of craftsmanship and artwork are not of the highest standards, some are outright terrible looking.

And best of all: find local and/or regional craft fairs that are specifically limited to real handmade items, not the typical garbage or buy/resell stuff found everywhere and make this a recurring thing. They don't normally cost as much as they are orginized by a person who is a true handcrafter and they typically limit the number of people doing the same craft so as to ensure success for everyone who participates.

The backgrounding is done with matting tools, not a backgrounder. There is no laser engraving at all on this project, there are several people who are capable of achieving a consistent impression such as this, isn't very difficult. The finishing is a medium brown dye (most likely oil dye), and the Celtic design elements are either a Sheridan Brown or tinted Saddle Tan stain or antique paste finish. The best products to use are the Fiebing's line and don't just rely on your local Tandy store for availability. You can also purchase directly from Fiebing via their website and you will most likely find that their prices are less than you would be typically paying retail.

Sorry for chiming in so late but I found this a great topic. I was with Stamps.com for over 8 years and never really had any issues with them except that you could only print your postage on the envelope directly or it had to be printed on a specific label which cost additional money. I made the switch directly to the USPS and dumped Stamps.com for several reasons. The cost of fees, supplies and maintaining postage on the Stamps.com account was ridiculous when you find that the you can do the exact same things directly through the USPS site and get even more features. With the USPS you can actually schedule an item for pick-up, at your door, and they will send your carrier to do it, and it doesn't cost you anything for that service. You don't even have to be there for them to pick it up, just leave it in a designated location and let them know where it will be in the comments. With the USPS I can actually print my postage on any form of media (label, plain paper, etc.) and just affix it to the outbound packaging. No need for special labels or papers, just print, stick and go. Couldn't do that with Stamps.com, I tried. And best of all, why should you pay an outside company to provide you access to services that you can get from the "supplier" for free? When you add it all up you find that you spend between 250% to 325% more for Stamps.com than you will ever spend directly with USPS. If you need a postage scale, they are available at any office supply store and cost an arm and a leg. Besides, most of us don't need one, just use the Priority Mail Flat Rate program and you can ship just about anything you need. We have all heard their tagline, "if it fits, it ships", and that is true as could be. There is only one other limit on this and that is, that you can not exceed 70lbs. per package (4lbs. International) but how many of us would be shipping that much weight? That is a lot of leather (saddles of course would meet and exceed that but they wouldn't fit into the box anyway).

Back to the original topic of the Fiebing's line, the best selection for dyeing would be the oil dyes and you can mix the colors to achieve a wider range of hues. When it comes to the antique finish (the paste) you can do the same with them as with the dyes. I must admit that over the years the color depth of the antique paste has weakened but it still provides a more realistic result of antique presence than any of the water-based products. I will admit that the Eco-Flo pro waterstains are much better than the other products in the line but there is still a higher rate of rub-off (as a result of use) than there is with a spirit/alcohol based product. For deeper stain coverage, the Fiebing's antique stains (liquid) are a very good product and I have even done some mixing of colors between the liquid and the paste to get a custom look. With the Fiebing's products the only limit to the final look is the user's mind. This is why Fiebing's has been around as long as they have and are still considered the premium product on the market and sought out everywhere.

Snow Proof is a good product but as Chief said, there is no true full waterproofing product out there. If leather gets wet, it gets wet. You just let it dry out naturally (don't force it), recondition it with an oil or wax based conditioner and it goes back into use. It is always a good idea to condition leather on a routine basis anyway (depending on use and exposure to elements) which also helps to maintain the water resistance characteristics. However, shoe polish is nothing more than a minor conditioning product that is primarily intended to retain color versus protection, that is why mink oil was so popular within the military. Mink oil was used to provide conditioning and moisture protection to the boot leather and then, once fully set, the soldier could use the shoe polish to get that high-gloss spit shine (I also used the neutral color as my final application that gave my jump boots the highest shine you could find). Without the mink oil though, the leather would soak up moisture like no tomorrow. I have used the Fiebing's line for the past 40 years and have also tried the other products on the market but still stand by the Fiebing quality (haven't yet found anything capable of taking their place). Tandy stores used to carry the entire line but now only carry a small fraction, I just get mine from the Fiebing's site.

Sent you a PM.

Yes, Tandy will be releasing a set of Craftool Pro Stamps this year. However, I have been keeping in touch with my local store and there is no set date for this release. Speculation is that it may not happen until mid-year (or about there). Fortunately, I still have my original Craftool stamps from when they were made here in the U.S. and from high-quality materials. I have very little need for anything new from their line and have found no need to replace them with anything more expensive as the results come from technique. Besides, all of the other maker's of tools are doing nothing more than "re-engineering" the same patterns and designs that Craftool has trademarked and copyrighted over the decades. Don't really find too many unique designs that serve a common/general function. For a person who is just starting out, there is no need to spend high dollar amounts on tools until you actually know how much time you will be investing in this craft. If it becomes a booming business, knock yourself out, otherwise just invest in some simple tools that don't cost an arm and a leg and see how it goes.

Tandy (and other places online) offer diamond point punches in a 1-prong, 2-prong and 4-prong model. There are 3 sizes to choose from with each one having a different spacing between prongs. These are specifically designed to simplify the process of making stitching holes. Give them a look and see if this will help. I use them in my travel kit and in my shop when I need to get a very large project completed, otherwise I use a regular stitching awl. And, by the way, the stitching looks pretty good on the picture you provided. Keep up the good work and keep posting as you learn.

You can also use your swivel knife, just don't cut as deep as you would for your carvings. For the straight lines use a straight edge and for the rounded areas just make sure that you hold the same offset from the edge of the leather. This is how it was done before the advent of the groover.

Chief pretty much hit it on the head. If you have white Cova Color (or other acrylic paint) apply that to the lettering areas and let dry completely. Once it is dried, apply several coats (at least 3, 5 max) of your resist sealer (acrylic resolene or Eco-Flo Super Shene), let each coat dry at least 2 hours before applying the next. Once all coats have been applied, let it sit overnight to dry and oxidize. Finally, block dye your main belt area with the black finish and there you go. Try it on a scrap piece first and see what you think.

Mike, There is an eBook available on the Leathercraft Library site that you can buy, download and print (or have printed and bound). The price to purchase this book and download it is $1.99 (sales tax will apply as well) and the name of the book is: Braiding and Lacing for Fun. This might help you to get the basics down and give you a starting point to work with when putting together an instructional program. Let me know if you need any help.

The Handbag Pattern Pack has 4 patterns, including one called the Rodeo. This is the original pattern for what became the marketplace handbag. I also have the marketplace handbag pattern pack and was able to get it from the Leathercraft Library. You can download them immediately.

The bike world, especially seats and gear, is becoming a very large market right now. That is your style, just go with it and always keep learning. I am sure that we will see a great many things from this one.

Being as the oblong holes are not actually that long, you could just punch two round holes next to each other, just overlap them so that you get the oblong look.

Welcome to the forums and network and I wish you a quick tour and return home. I too have given my life to service for our Country (24 years, 2nd ACR, 1st AD, 3 ID, 11th ACR, 1st Ranger Bn, 10th SF) and I was doing leatherwork the entire time. It is now what I call my "therapy" and it beats any of that stuff that the VA wants to do for those of us who have an extensive combat history (everything from 1982 to 2006). Your work is looking good and I hope to see more of it as the months pass. As stated befor by others, if there is anything you need help with or just want to shoot the you know what, just drop a note and I am sure that someone will be there shortly. Thank you for continuing that time honored tradition of defending the freedoms and liberties of the US citizen, now if we can only hold on to them.

Wow! How long you been doing this? That is some pretty nice looking stuff there, keep doing what you are doing.

I too have to agree with Mike and the others, that is just plain WRONG, and it is even more WRONG to charge that price for it. You are most likely correct in your assessment that the belt is probably machine made as it has very strong "embossed" characteristics. It looks just like the stuff you find at the local fairs where all of the "traveling vendors" are. You always find one vendor in the bunch that has a few leather articles for sale, especially belts, that are pretty much the same designs, just finished differently. These are all done through the use of embossing wheels and then cut to length and finished. To your question, the best method of achieving this look is to apply either a lacquer finish or an acrylic finish (i.e. Resolene) and let it dry completely. Then apply your stain (don't use dye as it has a different chemical make up and penetration rate), allow it to set a bit then rub off the excess and allow to dry completely. Once it is dry, buff off any remaining residue and then seal it (again, either lacquer or acrylic). Hope this helps.

Unless the leather has been treated with oils, waxes or other sealant, they will all take in water, even a latigo will take on some water, it just does it slowly. There really isn't a traditional tanning process that will create a waterproof leather, it is accomplished through the conditioning. Even authentic mukluks are treated with animal fats to give them their water repellant characteristics and it also is what allows them to remain supple and pliable.

There used to be what was called Florentine lace that was perfect for this but it has recently been dropped from the list. However, the best thing to use for buckstitching is a 5/32" leather lace which is relatively common to most suppliers. You may find it in either calf or kangaroo as the most common source materials. Shop the various suppliers and see what you can find. Where do you normally get your supplies from?

@Cozee: You will find that with the tools that came in your starter set the impressions may not look as clean as those you will find from the numerous images within the galleries on this site and from across the web. The tools for the starter sets ARE NOT Craftool, they are a generic imitation that has not been very well refined. That is why I will always always suggest a list of starter tools for anyone who wants to get started in leatherwork and they can go to their local supplier and purchase them individually. The individual tool stock is much better (they are real Craftool) than the kit contents. On the Pro Series, I checked with my local store yesterday on what the possible release time is on them and it appears that it may not be until the Spring, maybe later. However, I have had the same tools for over 40 years now (and they are ORIGINAL Craftool) and there is nothing that I can't accomplish with them. I do not own every tool that has been made as there is no need for them. I only use the smooth faced bevelers and shaders as that is what gives the most options in results. My current count is 6 bevelers, 5 pear shaders, 5 camouflage, 6 veiner, 3 background, 4 matting, 5 seeders, 6 figure carving, 2 border stamps and 1 basketweave. Add in the three swivel knives (each with a different blade) and all of my punches and I can fit all of this stuff into a wooden tool rack and have room left. It has been that way for as long as I have been doing leather and there is no reason for any of the other stuff. I am not a hobby crafter, I have a full-fledges business and I do everything by hand. There are no sewing machines or anything else mechanical in my shop and there never will be. It is always nice to look at the new stuff but then you have stand back and ask yourself, "does it do anything that I can't already do with what I have?" and more often than not the answer is a resounding "nope". If you are just getting started then stick with the Craftool line for now, just don't buy anymore starter type kits. And, if you get into it really deep, the first thing I would do is to replace each of the tools that came in the starter kit with the real Craftool version, you WILL see a difference. The other thing I would recommend is to define "what" your artistic style is going to be (vintage, Steampunk, Sheridan, etc.) and tailor your tools to meet that objective. Welcome to this wonderful craft and I hope to see some of your work posted soon.

Sounds like it is pasted. Is this one of their economy grade or special purchase single shoulder's? If it is then it is most likely pasted so as to reduce the amount of flesh fuzz when working with it. Shouldn't give you any issues though as it is veg-tanned and the grain side will still do what it is supposed to.

I also have the Pro Stitching Groover set but it is in my travel box that is used to go to craft events. I have never had any issues with it but the consistency of the tools is always in question as they are manufactured OCONUS (we all know where they come from nowadays, not necessary to print it out). My primary tool is a vintage Craftool saddle stitching groover (wider range of use availability, just can't mark a crease line with it but that is what a ruler and stylus are for anyway). I would send it back to get it replaced and even drop a note to the main HQ explaining your problem so that they are aware of what is being shipped out of the local stores.

For those who have a true physical need for such an item then the benefit is obvious. However, there are always those who are just looking for the next gimmick to make things faster and this is what you get. Our craft is a true Artisan craft and it has been by hand for centuries, it is not time to change it just to change it. The quality that is achieved by performing ever step by hand (to include dyeing and so on) can not be matched through the use of machinery. Machinery and shortcuts are for the hobby branch or mass production lines, a craftsman is neither. Just my $0.02 worth.

I too use diamond chisels for the larger projects. I can get around a perimeter of 62" within a half hour. I leave the leather slightly damp so that the chisel is easier to withdraw and you don't have to punch it so far through (as so many people do with all of their thonging/stitching chisels). Can't think of any other methods that would make it easier aside from changing up the type of assembly work (if possible).