NVLeatherWorx

And that answer to the question about fees is the first thing that make sense, from a business perspective. I too will be leaving Etsy when my listings expire in Janurary. It is ridiculous to have all of those fees and commissions attached to an item plus your payment processing fees, especially when your presentation outlet is more a collection of non-related items or substandard quality goods. I will currently maintain my presence through my own site at this time and continue to research other outlets.

I also finish in the same manner as Aaron and Chief and have been doing it that way for about 35 years with no issues (at least with the Fiebing's products, the Eco-Flo products have been major issues as they tend to rub off so bad that the end finish is not what was intended). Stitching and lacing is always last so as not to alter their final color through the finishing process. Key is as Chief said, drying time and patience. Let it dry at least 8 hours, 24 for final coatings to ensure that the full penetration and oxidation has taken place. Good luck.

What part(s) are you looking for to have a template of? I still use the old cardstock versions that I made based on the designs that Al Stohlman provided in Belts Galore. Regarding the issues related to the stitching: the only real way to get a quality stitch is to do it by hand as has been done for decades. Machines just don't give a quality stitch and the risk of damaging your thread is much greater with a machine. Call me old fashioned, but I have been doing it this way for about 40 years and I just can't fix something if it ain't broke. If you just need some measurements or templates, let me know and I will see what I can put together for you.

Regarding dyes and finishes, the recommendation would be based on what your intended finishing style is. If there is going to be full color details (on carved layouts) then I would recommend that you get some Fiebing's spirit dyes. Use acrylic resolene for your top finish. If you wish to stain an item, use the Fiebing's Antique Paste's and finishe them off with resolene as well. I would not recommend using the Pro Oil Dye's unless you intend to do nothing but dye an item a solid color without any other color/finish conderations (they are great for things such as plain bags, holsters, but not much else as they tend to be spotty on their penetrations). Also, as mentioned, if you plan on doing any carving or stamping then you will need those items as well. For mallets, you can use a poly mallet (Tandy has a good one) or upgrade and use the rawhide (gives better feel for tooling), do not use a rubber mallet as you will not get the proper impact on your punches and tools, not to mention the risk of injuring yourself. There is a reason that you don't find them in a kit or in use by the vast majority of shops and craftsmen.

If you want the background to have a solid appearance versus the relief appearance that you have achieved, you need to go with a spirit dye as the first treatment which will penetrate all areas (beveled or not) evenly, then you can use the oil dye over the top. I prefer to use only spirit dyes to get all of my color and then allow my oil or acrylic finishes to do the rest. Oil dyes don't allow a solid penetration most of the time due to slight imperfections in the leather which is why you have the results that you got.

@Ash: all you have to do is go into the store and you can ask about your free tool. It is one tool per month and you must be a member of their wholesale club. You may substitute the tool for a craftaid template as well. The free tool also applies to their 2-D and 3-D stamps. @DFWLeather: I have done business with Tandy for decades and have never had an issue with being overcharged on items as the pricing is automatically linked to the account status of the purchaser. These things are also monitored within their accounting system. Not to say that there may not be some staff members who don't know any better, as we see them everywhere we go. I am a business customer of Tandy as well as Zack White and Springfield. Any member of the Tandy wholesale club (all levels, including business) get the same pricing from Springfield. This applies only to those items that are sold in their shops that are the same source (snaps, stamps, etc.), this does not apply to everything though. For the average hobby crafter who is active in making things, Tandy is the best bet as it is most likely easily accessible and it is best to at least get the Gold. If you decide to branch out and grow (turn it into a business venture) then you need to look at the business licensing, business membership (which is not only the lowest pricing available, but tax exempt also), and establishing multiple sources. I source my materials from 5 different suppliers, with each one of them being the niche in a certain category.

Sounds like it is milled veg-tan from the feel description. Tends be a recent trend towards using this type of leather. Guess that is due to class instructors not covering how to condition traditional veg-tan so that you get that soft feel and texture. I have heard from students that the focus in on coloring and traditional finishing but when I was taught years ago, traditional finishing consisted primarily of the oil tanned/conditioning methods, not the water-based acrylic approach of today. Guess us older guys just don't keep up with modern technology. Richard

First, your Pro-Dye is probably old so the effects expected from these dyes has been lost a bit due to some natural dehydration of the alcohol base and the pigments starting to harden. This is a natural effect, unfortunately. Moistening the leather before applying dyes, stains and antique finishes helps to ensure a more even penetration and application. This applies to all types of products, regardless of what their base element is. Just make sure the leather is damp, not wet. You should barely be able to notice that it is wet. Regarding the finish, if these are all you have available and on-hand then the best one to use at this point would be Carnauba Creme. I would suggest that you make sure that you have removed all residue from the saddle soap as it does tend to leave a film, just like regular soap does when it hasn't been rinsed off properly. This is providing that the item being finished will not be exposed to outdoor elements constantly and is not of a heavy-duty use, such as horse tack or such items. If it is a heavy-duty use item or will be exposed to outdoor elements on a constant basis you might want to get yourself some Neats Foot Oil or similar type of oil. You can also use Extra-Virgin Olive Oil as a conditioner. Always let oiled items hang dry until the oil has absorbed into the fibers. Hope this helps to get you started. Richard

Yes, the oil dyes and spirit dyes are much better. They have great penetration into the fibers and don't rub off like the eco stuff and other water based versions. I have been using them for over 30 years and stick by them. I have tried the water-based products in an effort to feel like I was doing my part but you just don't get the same results. If you have to go to Vegas to get them, make it a weekend trip and enjoy yourself.

Do you have any images that show what is happening? I noticed that you used saddle soap to burnish the edges, where did you learn that one? In my experience I have found saddle soap creates problems when you are trying to dye veg-tan leather as it tends to leave a residue that prohibits penetration into the fibers. I also only use leather dye on my edges versus edge kote due so that the color penetration is more set. I always burnish first, moistened with water only, and allow to dry thoroughly before I do the edge dye. I use Fiebing's products only as I have done for the past 30 plus years. Just about everything else is a water-based product and just doesn't have the staying power needed. Hope this helps shed some light on this for you.

Wow! That red color makes the wallet. It looks great with that addition and you should keep them coming with that type of styling. Real nice job. Richard

Hello Rivits, After looking at the two examples that you linked, I am assuming that you are making similar items. The lack of a lining on such items is actually quite common as the intent was to give the owner the true effect of having a real leather product. All too often there are cheap quality items being purchased that claim to be made of leather yet the bulk of the material that can be identified is a lot of vinyl/nylon liner material and the leather is frequently what is called "man made" which is nothing more than recycled materials which includes wood chips, paper fiber, plastics, but no leather (it smells like leather because they add oils that match the aroma of leather). By not using linings, they allow the customer to see that the item is truly made of real leather, as it has been advertised. I stay clear of using a lining material unless it is leather (pigskin, lamb skin, etc.) unless the client specifically requests that use a vinyl liner (which is the same one mentioned above). I do however make the pocket linings for credit card slots on my wallet guts from the vinyl lining as it is easier on the cards and also allows me to keep the thickness and weight down. I can get a roll of it to last me about 2 years and still have left overs.

Chaylor-Fenelli is the only fabricated source that I know of if that is the route you want to go. As electrathon said though, most of us make our own. At this current time I have 5 versions for a simple billfold, two versions for a more traditional wallet (card style) and have several more versions and models on the drawing board. I have yet to use the same interior twice at this point but the creativity will eventually run out as there are only so many ways you can design a wallet.

For all of you in the Western US there is a mass supplier out of Napa Valley as well who move HO among other veg-tanned sides and shoulders. They are the Hide House and have a history in that area as long as the area itself. Go to their website, check them out and see what they have that fits your bill. Their pricing is in line with everyone else, if not lower and they cover everywhere. They also have wholesale pricing for those who are registered businesses, just send them a minimal amount of info (the same as what SLC requires) and you are done. Although I am in Nevada, Napa is about 3 - 4 hours away from me so I can call ahead, have them set stuff aside, and show up at the door to check it and pick it up. Makes a nice day trip for me so I can spend some time in the valley. No issues yet with their quality or CS.

These are in fact just for them as they have their name on them and have them patented and trademarked as well. Too bad about that though as they are really nice. Give it some time, there is sure to be someone out there from outside the US that will violate these trademarks and copyrights and put an aftermarket version out there for the mass market as there are plenty of private handbag and purse makers in the world that are sure to snatch them up.

I was taught many moons ago that burnishing was the final stage of the finishing process just before applying your coloring and/or finishes. If by shaping, you mean wet forming or something along that line, you may want to do your tooling/stamping before hand so that you can have a solid base for the work (not to mention, your tooling/stamping needs to be very deep if some of it is actually going to be contoured). Think that covered your questions. Let me know if I missed anything.

Yup, to get the texture just give that cased leather a workover on some artificial surface of your choice. I have seen some pieces that were beat to death with a chain (looked almost like a pear shader attack on steroids). I don't typically go after this style of texture but I do go after the finish appearance. I achieve my look by applying antique paste (that is all that I use aside from dye for the colored details) and allowing it to set up (partially dry) before I actually remove any excess or buff. The trick is to apply it unevenly (I know, goes against all that we have been told and taught) so as to achieve the different penetration results. Once I start buffing, I will buff some areas more than others but once it is done, I have a varying degree of tone without having to get creative trying to do a "resist wash".

I can't believe that you can get $38,000 for a simple suede bag with plated hardware. Wonder what I could get for this one? http://www.highdesertleathersmith.com/index.php/my-projects-gallery/13-workbench-photos/2-western-classic-shoulder-bag-in-progress I made this one for my wife but figured that I would go with around $425 for it.

Clay: Beautiful belt, keep them coming. I to always stop the tooling before the fold as that is the way that I was taught many moons ago (been doing this stuff since about 1976). The basic reasoning for doing so was to ensure that the integrity of the fold is not compromised and the fact that the design loses its appearance as a result of the folding. Again, beautiful belt. Love that layout. Richard

Nice billet belts here, like the styling. However, the true Ranger belt is a totally different design. Regardless, it is nice to see that someone is working on more than just the typical single piece belt. I too spend more time focusing on the Billet and Ranger styles versus the regular belt. There are enough people doing that already so why compete? Keep up the great work and keep posting when you can.