NVLeatherWorx

Thanks to Bruce Johnson for updating his post from August, I was about to do that as I have been shipping outside the US with the small flat rate boxes quite a bit now. So far, I have not had a single customer report that they had been hit with additional fees/duties (aside from the typical VAT garbage that the EU has in place anyway) and every one of the packages has had the Customs Declaration included with it. We can only keep our fingers crossed that it stays that way. And I only use the USPS now for all of my shipments to anywhere in the World as their pricing is the best you are going to find over anyone else. I have a full business account with both UPS and FedEx and never use them because of the extremely high rates for the "additional" services and the "experience" of not having to do some simple paperwork that takes no time at all.

Too bad about the "no more good friends" thing but now you can start making some money on these works of art.

No problem. It is actually a beauty once you get it done.

As usual, another beautiful looking wallet. Is this one for a friend or a "sold" item?

Try this out: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=58551 It is listed as a Biker Wallet but the idea is exactly the same, maybe just modify it a bit. Make sure that you scroll down to the pattern upload that is titled as the updated version as it is more accurate on the sizing.

TwinOaks is right about how to end on a single piece of leather. I am lost in trying to figure out how you only have a single piece of leather when you are working with a Tandy Clutch Purse Kit. The kits typically have the interior parts pre-assembled as one large unit which includes the "lining" section that will go onto your tooling back; that would make your two layers of leather. If your lining piece does not cover the entire tooling back then you should start and end your lacing in a section that does have two layers.

And, being as these straps are going to be exposed to moisture, you may want to give them a good treatment of Mink Oil, let it set for about 24 hours, buff again to confirm no further rub-off, then seal with the Resolene.

Sometimes you will find a side that may have some slight fluctuations, the more "value" based the tannery (that means cheaper) the more the chance of this happening. It should be noted that Hermann Oak only selects the highest quality Steer hides which are larger and stronger as the animal is not of the "fatty" variety like most other leathers that are sent out for tanning. It is true that not all veg-tan is full grain but only full grain can be tooled so let's put that to rest right there. It should also be noted that some pigskin lining leathers are veg-tanned (even though I am sure EVERYONE thinks that they are Chrome Tanned) and that isn't just the Natural pigskin leather either. There is a supplier that has veg-tanned Mission Grain pigskin for lining purposes and I can tell you that there is a big difference between how it feels and works versus the Chrome tanned version. I would only ask one question for you nrk: how do you gauge your leather? Do yo use an actual gauge or some other method? If you aren't using an official gauge then your may have actually received the correct weight of leather but a lower grade of leather may not be as accurate from the splitting process.

The best source here in the U.S. is from Springfield Leather; Tandy carries it but they don't list it on their website anymore because they can't sell it to anyone in California due to their restrictions on everything under the Sun. I get California customers asking me for Python skin items all of the time and I have to promptly decline because you can't even ship a finished product with to that State without breaking their laws. Python is not a cheap material and if you were to find anywhere else, especially outside of the U.S. for a better price than you find from suppliers here then you should question the quality big time.

If you are looking for something unique and custom then try this guy out: www.smdwoodworks.com; I have a pen and tablet stylus made by him. Nice work on the case.

I too would most likely not take the job as it seems (and feels) like this customer is looking to possibly resell these holsters under their name and that would be much easier to do without your mark on them. If you are selling your items for less than they are worth (and well below what the average for this same type of item is from other sources, research this and find out) then they can mark them up to what the average is, maybe higher, and make a profit on your hard work. I never entertain a request for an item without my mark and I never do wholesale work because the end retailer is out to make money on THEIR items even though I made them; I have seen others put their works out at wholesale only to find the end retailer "brand" the items with their name. This is not fair to the actual maker (even though they made the mistake of entering into that agreement) and it is false advertising when you make the consumer think that you did the work when the credit belongs to someone else.

I have never used this product as I still use Oxalic Acid prior to any finishing. It has been around much longer than the Dye Prep or any of the other items and if I ever have to remove any "shine" or "gloss" from the leather (it would be assumed that this leather has been finished before) then I just use Deglazer and call it a day. Sorry I can't help here.

The color and impressions really pop out at you now, great work! You are now ready for the next level young Grasshopper.

If I might add my $0.02 here, it is best to use a thinner/solvent that has been specifically matched to the product to be used. Everyone knows that alcohol, regardless of what blend, will dry the leather out. And I can tell you from experience that alcohol, again regardless of blend, is not a good thinner/extender because of the amount of water content that it contains. The water does not actually mix well with the dyes/stains. I know there are several craftsmen who are always looking to save a buck or two or a more easily available product that can be picked up on a whim instead of having to drive several miles to a Tandy store or order it online (and we all know that most of us don't actually live anywhere with a Tandy (or other leathercraft supplier) store in our back yards) but when it comes to ensuring that the finished product is the finest quality and best that it can be, take the plunge and buy the proper products that are meant to work together. After all Red Cent, you have it as part of your profile info on the side bar: "Life is too short to argue with stupid people and drink cheap booze." I am not calling you stupid in any way shape or form but think about the "cheap booze" part and then apply that to "cheap finishes/materials" and then ponder whether that should apply as well. I agree with you about the "arguing with stupid people" (and the drinking cheap booze part as well) and I won't do it. I have had a small handful of people stop and play 20 questions with me at events and they are doing it all to learn more about how we make things because they are doing it as a hobby and looking to start selling. When we get into the needs (items, tools, products, materials, etc.) of what is required to make it a quality item they always start to bring up the shortcuts and other "bargain" approaches and that is where I ask them, "are you planning on making a quality item or just keep making the cheap looking stuff?" and then they get quiet. Once I have their attention I then get into the economics of the whole thing and it hits them that they have no business going into business if they aren't going to do it right because our trade can be very brutal when you put out poor quality. Now, about that Dickel. If I were in your neck of the woods I would stop by and share a bottle with you but being on the opposite side of the dirt it is quite tough. Instead, I will have one for you and you can have one for me. Sound like a plan?

David: What type of dye are you actually using? This makes a big difference in how things end up working. And, although Olive Oil is a natural product, it has a tendency to not allow dye pigments to set into the fibers of the leather as it is a heavy oil and saturates very quickly; I use Pure Neatsfoot Oil and Fiebing's Oil Dyes for all of my finished items. I did have a local holster maker (not a very skilled or knowledgeable one by the way) stop by my site at one of the local events and question me 20 ways to Sunday about how I finish my goods so I told him my process. He then asked me if I understood that the use of Neatsfoot Oil on the leather prior to dyeing would not permit the dye to penetrate and would allow for heavy rub-off; I asked him how he came to that conclusion and he told me that it was a common problem that he experiences. I asked him what products he used and he told me that he had started using Neatsfoot Oil and would then finish with a water-based dye or stain, that is where I stopped him. I had to ask him if he forgot all of that simple science that he was taught in school (recent College graduate he was) about how oil and water don't mix. He got offended and then wanted to start to argue the idea; I stopped him short and told him to move on and I also made it clear to him that when he was ready to learn how this trade works and how to use all of the materials and products available instead of just thinking he knew it all because he can read a book (selective word scanning is more accurate) that he could contact me and I would teach him how to make a quality leather product. In closing, I gave him one of my finished items to try and rub the dye off and he couldn't, that made him even more upset because he had just been proven to have a high lack of knowledge for what he was doing and he did this all in the presence of 7 of his friends. I actually felt kind of bad for the guy, especially when I heard one of his friends say to him as they walked away, "that guy really knows what he is doing, you might want to take him up on his offer". I haven't heard from him again but I have been contacted by some of his friends that were with him that day and made custom items for them.

But those prices are for what Tandy calls their Craftsman Oak grade and these are so inconsistent that it isn't even funny. They do these special purchases around the Holiday's and at least two other times during the year. If you are solely fixed on price of leather then by all means stick with Tandy; but don't come around asking why you have one issue or another when using the leather or coloring it because we have pretty much already answered those issues. If you are a craftsman that believes in quality and that the finished product says "you" then you should not be using ANY of the Tandy leather. This thread was about the quality differences, not the price, yet it seems that all anyone can focus on is the $ sign. The original question related to quality needs and that is where we have been taking this thread, let us not lose focus of where we were asked for help in understanding the difference in QUALITY.

Only their pigskin is tanned in Brazil, more specifically the Mission Grain pigskin lining leather. And it is now vegetable-tanned (using another lesser quality formula that also has a high wax content on finishing) as it is cheaper than the old way was. Much more stretchy now and can be difficult to work with. Stick with the better quality of either H.O. or W.&C. and you can't go wrong.

I still use the lettering that is contained within the book Alphabets for the Leather Craftsman available through Tandy's Leathercraft Library as a downloadable purchase. I have had this book since it was published and it hasn't failed me yet. Even includes tips and tricks on how to properly carve the letters, adjust their sizing, and coloring. Doesn't cost an arm and a leg and is well worth every penny.

Well, the video that you have attached can not be played back through here (something about the video owner having disabled that feature) but I have a pattern for a 3 pocket wallet (it is my own design, but it can be modified real easy by just cutting the two pocket section twice). Don't really have it in format but I could get you the measurements for the parts or maybe even put it into print real quick. I have them on my Etsy Shop (see link below) under the title of The Grab-n-Go Wallet. Let me know.

Here it is in a nutshell: Hermann Oak leather is tanned using one of the original vegetable based (from Oak) formula's that dates way back which gives the leather a true natural look when dried; the Tandy leathers (all of them) are tanned in Mexico using a more modern formula (not from Oak) that doesn't quite give you the color (dry or wet) that a quality oak tanned leather should. The Hermann Oak leather is drawn from the top of the line U.S. Steer hides which are tougher and larger and they hand pick each skin that will be sent to their tannery; only the finest and cleanest hides make the cut, and that goes for all grades of theirs. Tandy doesn't quite put the emphasis on selecting quality skins to be sent to Mexico to be tanned and that creates a consistency issue. Hermann Oak hides are very clean. I have even used some of the lowest grade leathers on certain items and found them to be much cleaner (free from scars, damage, etc.) than even the Royal Meadow sides from Tandy, and that is their top of the line grade. I use the Hermann Oak Craftsman grade bellies for some of wallet interiors and other items where I need a very lightweight (2 to 3 oz.) cowhide and they are much finer than the Oak Leaf 8 to 9 oz leather. Hermann Oak stamps/carves & tools much better than anything Tandy has to offer and there is no competition between the two when finishing; Hermann Oak always gives you an even dye/stain/antique and finishing look every time; can't say that about any of the Tandy leathers. Hermann Oak is consistent every time when verifying weight; none of the Tandy leathers can say this. Put quite simply, if you have the chance to use Hermann Oak over any of the other leathers then do it. Yes, you will pay a bit more for Hermann Oak but you are getting a true Premium leather and it is well worth it. However, beware of this: Tandy has recently started to introduce Hermann Oak leather into their product offerings (in limited weights for right now) and I can tell you that their pricing is way over any other source/supplier for these same materials, even if you have their BEST pricing. There are other sources for the Hermann Oak leather and you will find that even at their highest price points they are still well below where Tandy sells to their Elite/Business members; and I mean WAY BELOW. Tandy isn't as focused on trying to be the "Go To" source for quality leather crafting materials anymore like they used to be (and this was way back in their early days); their business model is more sales (as in marketing to larger groups such as correctional and rehabilitation programs, etc.) and that is evident not only by the product lines and their quality, but also by the simple fact that the vast majority of their staff are salespeople and typically have NO knowledge of the craft or how to use an item; they just know what the manufacturer information tells them and how they are trained to sell it.

Another thing that will help, especially if you continue to use the water based stuff (Eco-Flo) is to apply the antique with a piece of sheep wool. This will allow you to get the antique into the impressions better and it will not create as much friction as is you did using the old cotton shirt. Using the shirt was almost the same as using sandpaper and it will scratch off any resist or finish that you apply as a top sealer over colored elements. One key thing to remember is this: anytime that you add a dye, stain, finish, color, etc. you need to let it set for at least 24 hours to ensure full drying and oxidation before you apply the next treatment or step. That goes with all products that are used for this purpose. I do like the work though, looks very good for your first try. I can tell you that in my study of the works of others over the years I have seen some "skilled" or "experienced" crafters fall short of where you are right now. Not meant to offend anyone but I am sure that most of us could say the same thing.

The Hi-Lite stain goes on with either a sponge or you can apply it with a dauber; it is a deeper penetrating formula and their story is that it will highlight certain elements of your designs, reality is that it just stains the leather and that is it. The gel antique should be applied with a piece of sheep's wool and with a circular motion; once you have applied the antique you want to immediately wipe off any excess and then let it dry overnight. Regardless of which one of these you use you need to be aware that due to these products being water based they will run and you will get some serious rub-off as you continue through the finishing process; sometimes even afterwards. You will also find that even after you have sealed the leather with an acrylic sealant you will still get water spots and runs if the item gets wet; that is why you won't find very many of using the water based products. There are plenty of videos on the Tandy website and their Leathercraft Library (and books as well that are specifically written about the Eco-Flo product line and how to use them) that explain some of the tricks and tips that will help you use these products better if you stick with them.

How did you apply the Leather Sheen? It should always be applied with a damp sponge and not rubbed into the leather, just lightly drag the sponge across the leather and make sure that you are applying it as evenly as possible. However, you might find better success with Resolene and mix it with water to a true 50/50 blend.

You asked the critical question: should I use neatsfoot or something? The answer is yes, you should always replenish the oils that are removed during the handling/stamping/carving & tooling process; just don't apply too much. Give your leather a light coating, let it set overnight, do it again the next day, let it set again overnight. If you continue to have the issue with your 50/50 blend then you may want to switch over to Clear-Lac as it remains flexible and gives a very good seal as well.

Well, by the time you get all of the dye that you will need to saturate the leather (which is how a drum dyed side is done) and the equipment, you won't actually be saving any money. I personally would just stick with the way you have been doing things but you might want to start looking for some suppliers who can sell you the drum dyed sides as single items. It sounds like you are purchasing direct from a tannery if you are doing at a bulk purchase. There are plenty of suppliers out there that have them as single hides and other sized pieces.