NVLeatherWorx

I personally use only 12 to 13 oz. and I don't secure it on the top with screws (too much risk of breakage due to stresses). Instead, I use the old styled cup method where the tops of the legs are tucked into the cup on the bottom of the seat. That is the way that they were originally made way back and I still have the one I received as a gift 42 years ago, and it still works just the same now as it did then (I just can't use it anymore is all). If you are looking to decorate it (stamp/carve & tool) then you will need to use veg-tan though.

I have been using the 2.5mm on all of my wallet interiors and other fine stitched areas and a fine waxed thread and just love how much better it comes out. In fact, I have been double stitching the fine areas and it comes out really balanced. It is also the perfect combination (the fine stitch and fine waxed thread) for all of those out of the way/hidden stitched areas (such as the pocket bottoms when layering the pockets). The inner stitched lines of the card pockets are done with the 2.5mm chisel and fine thread (double stitched).

Choices are your local Tandy store, Springfield Leather Company, or any other local craft store that carries leather and leatherwork tools and materials.

The nice thing about doing with paper is that you can see where the changes, if any, need to be made and then can just draw out the new version and test it again. And the best part is, as you hit it, that it is MUCH cheaper than working with leather as your test bed. Regarding the material thickness issue, just add that amount to any drawn dimension when creating an item with a fold. It is kind of the same when making a wallet pocket for a credit card. The standard credit/debit card is 3-3/8" x 1-1/8" so when making a pocket for it to fit into requires you to figure out your card size, add some space for card access (I call it wiggle room), factor in your stitching location. and then where the edges of the pocket are. In this example I have the card width of 3-3/8", I add 1/4" on each side for my "wiggle room", then line out my stitching line at that location where my "wiggle room" line is (dashed lines), then add 1/8" to each side for where my edge of the pocket will be (that is the cut line). I now have a width for a pocket piece of 4-1/8". The depth is a little different but basically I cut every pocket the same at a total of 2", this allows the card top to be accessible by at least 3/8" for ease of grasp, and also gives enough depth to the pocket for the card to sit properly. This size of a pocket will allow at a minimum two cards per pocket to fit inside when compared to other pocket designs that are sized right to the bare minimum of space. It takes patience and trial and error but that is how we all learn the most important skills anyway.

I just grab pencil, paper and rulers, draw out my idea/concept, make a paper mock-up of the item to ensure it all goes together the way it is supposed to, refine any areas that need to be fixed, and once it all goes as planned/intended I make a hard template for each component and my parts list and go to town. Been working that way for me for decades so I see no need to change it.

The maker of that item is Tanner Leather Goods (as it is stamped on their product). It is their design and they sell it through their own stores as well as some licensed partners. It is not an open market design. A style that simple should not require a pattern template; just figure out a pattern based on the dimensions of the item(s) that it is intended to carry/hold.

Springfield Leather sells a bag of exotic scraps; contains mostly lizard skins and some good pieces of elephant, also get at least one piece of Python that is large enough to do about a 4" x 5" inlay; a little bit of Cayman is in there too. I get this bag just for super small items such as magnetic money clips and key fobs but you can do at least some wallet work with the majority of the pieces.

Well, being as just about all of those little parts are now made overseas, the answer to quality is interesting. What have you currently been using and what are you looking for. Quality is probably not going to be much different from one source to the next but pricing will be an entirely different result.

Use H.O. for everything and get much of it from SLC; never had any issues with it.

Have a nice day.

Just so everyone knows going into the world of water-based products, they do not give you long-lasting coverage and have a very long history of rub-off and bleeding. If you are putting high-quality products to the end user then you will only get a high-quality finish from a product that has a long history of meeting that objective and that is to use a spirit/spirit-oil blend based product. That means that you need to use either Fiebing's or Angelus. Besides, unless you are actually intentionally inhaling the fumes from these products for the purpose of trying to "get high" they are actually not that toxic nor will there be any permanent damage. And, if the odor is really that strong for you then you might want to consider getting yourself one of those little respirator masks that you can wear and make sure that you are always doing your finishing in a well ventilated area (which is recommended by the manufacturers by the way, not to mention OSHA, etc.). I have been using the Fiebing's line since I started working with leather and have had no ill effects from it as I pay attention to the cautionary things such as ventilation and wearing a respirator and have done so all along.

That looks like a custom blend as Gump has indicated. However, you can achieve almost solid match by using Fiebing's Antique Paste in Tan. Here is what it looks like:

So you just couldn't resist could you? Feel the same way about a finished item that has been dyed perfectly only to have the client request that the burnished edges be left natural. If the color is right it isn't too bad but it just don't look right on a very dark finish. They get what they want and that is what they pay for.

I actually don't cut my belt length as the first step due to the fact that you will gain an extra inch (minimum) from the stamping/tooling which will ultimately cause you to have a longer strap than you need when it comes time to finish it off. I shape the belt tip, layout my edge/stitching track (when applicable), stamp/carve & tool, specialty detail work (full color, resist, filigree, etc.), main color, oil/condition, top sealer, cut to length and install hardware and tongue holes, stitching/lacing (Bucklace), and then edge finishing. When I do the stamping/tooling I always start from the tip end and then work my towards the length at which the billet fold should be for the length required, sometimes even all the way to the end of the full strap (which is on average about 72" in length +/-). Once everything else has been done I will chop the strap where it should be, skive the billet end, layout the buckle tongue and screw holes and finish her up. If I have tooled to the end of the strap I will use the remainder as a sample for display whenever I am teaching a group or at a local fair/show (make it easier than having to carry a portfolio around).

Don't you just love trying to forget how perfect you prefer to have things done, just for a client? I know how you feel. Strive to ensure that everything is even and perfect and all of the sudden you get someone who wants you to throw your ideals out the window and actually do half-assed job of it. Oh well, guess long as the checks no be bouncin', we be doing what THEY want. Have a Happy New Year Snubby.

I sell wallets, belts, pad-folio's, purses/handbags, small personal use accessories, and pretty much everything but saddles (although I used to do that for a long time).

Give it a try and see how it works for you. If it is a solid product I may look at using it for my pet products. Have a Happy New Year and a prosperous 2015.

If you can't get it through your local Tandy store then you can get some from Springfield Leather. I get just about all of my leather from them as they are solid source for Hermann Oak and they have some unique cuts that you can't just get anywhere. I get the HO 2-3 oz. veg-tan bellies to use as my interiors because they are not overly large. Even though they are bellies they are very firm and work well for that application, and the best part is that they are actually a true 2-3 oz. consistently. They are also very affordable and easy to get. Food for thought if you are left hanging in the breeze on this. Have a Happy New Year and my 2015 be more prosperous than 2014.

Where are you getting your leather from? Tandy has it, Springfield Leather has it, just about everywhere I order from (warehouse direct) carries it. Is it just that they don't have it in stock or don't carry it? That is the best material for the interior parts of a wallet and I use it for that all the time. I do however make my wallet backs out of 4-5 oz. veg-tan as has been recommended since the dawn of our trade came about. It makes a much more durable and long-lasting total product and with the veg-tan interiors it can stand up against anything made by a designer house or any other commercial item. Too bad that you can't get your hands on it right now.

If you are making products that are exposed to extreme (and continuous) weather conditions then that would be an okay item. However, if you are making common use/personal accessory items then you don't really need to go to that extreme; Pure Neetsfoot Oil will do the trick of getting the conditioning where it needs to be and if applied properly does not cause the leather to go limp. You typically only find that issue when it has been oiled excessively or it was already a more flexible material.

I apply a 50/50 blend of water and Acrylic Resolene for most of the stuff that I make. There are some that get a double application of Clear-Lac leather lacquer but you have to be careful with that one as you can overdo it real easy. The 50/50 blend is the most popular among most of the craftsmen that I know and you will find that it is discussed almost daily within these forums. The biggest trick to use when applying any acrylic finish is to ensure that your applicator (it is recommended that you use a sponge) is damp before you start applying your acrylic. That is given as a standard instruction on just about ever brand that I have seen over the years yet is the most common to be overlooked by the end user. I rarely use Leather Balm or Tan-Kote but there are times when the project calls for it so it is always on-hand.

Tan Kote will do a little darkening as will Leather Balm with Atom Wax; Olive Oil also gives the leather a darkened look. However, most of the time when you see that type of hue to the color on a saddle it is a combination of the oils and natural weathering that help it get that patina. You can also get that type of patina by using Fiebing's Antique Paste before you apply your top finish. I always do my oil first (PURE Neetsfoot Oil), then apply my color (for those who want the "rustic" look I use Antique Paste), and then when that has all set for 24 hours it gets a final buffing then 2 to 3 applications of a water/Resolene mixture (50/50). Each application of my finish gets a 12 hour drying time to ensure that it is set. As with everything else in this trade, you have to find what works best for what you do and what you are looking for.

That is why we use PURE Neetsfoot Oil, it is not a compound. You will find that a skilled craftsman stays away from anything that is a compound, a blend, or a synthetic. We use the real stuff and have done so for years.

That rich saddle appearance is something that is obtained over time but if you are looking for that deep russet look then you could try letting your oiled leather "cure" while hanging outside in the sun. Problem is, most of us are not enjoying much sun right now. I am assuming that you are talking about the rich patina that you see on saddles when you say that rich saddle look.

Using chemical and petroleum based compounds on leather is going to cause damage. There are several threads throughout these forums that explain what works for just about every application when it comes to dyes, stains, finishes, etc. and all you have to do is search for them by keywords. There are also several threads that cover the use of products that are not intended for use on leather and the damage that they can cause.