electrathon

You leave a section of the liner notched out and unlaced. The pic is old and worn, but you can get the idea from it.

Wrong leather, you want vegetable tanned. Generally light tan and hard/stiff.

I wipe it on till I know I have coated everyplace, in the cracks and valleys. I then try to wipe away the excess, right away. I keep wiping till it starts to get sticky, then leave it alone. All of these steps happen pretty quickly.

The inside radius is sharpened with a round stone. A flat stone will not get into the curve.

It is a carpet knife.

I do not thin it, one thick, heavy coat and then quickly wipe it back off. Applied with a piece of sheepskin, then wiped back off with a second piece of dry sheepskin.

Heat will harden it pretty firm, not rock hard, but very firm. Oil will soften it, if you want it as hard as possible stay away from it with oil. You need to practice, bad. Not on your mask, but something else. Make a bowl or something easy. Once you do it a few times most of your questions, including the ones you have not been asked will be answered.

I have only skimmed through all of the posts, but the above listing is oil tanned and oil tanned will not work. It will not form and harden like veg tanned. Also, to keep the temp lower than 170 degrees when hardening in your oven simply keep removing it as it is drying. You should be able to hold it in your hand, barely. If it feels lik it will burn your hands, keep it out of the oven for a bit till it starts to cool.

I do not understand what you are doing either, but the simplest and most accurate way is to take the first piece and wrap it around something, then wrap it with the second piece and mark it.

Are you making any of these or are they all ones you buy? If you are making them you just need to buy the correct leather. If you are trying to change something you already bought, try a shoe sealer, like dr jacksons ( my first choice) or snow seal.

The inside needs to be about 3/16" shorter than the outside. Do not sew for about an inch where the wallet folds.

You can try it. You may get away with it but that is moving pretty fast to burnish.

You are putting it on way to thick. I recommend wiping it on with a piece of sheep wool. Work it into the cracks and wipe away the excess.

There are a few issues. The grinder is turning at 3600 rpm, way to hast. If you are going to do this you need a 1750 rpm buffer. The wheel you are looking for to mount to the shaft needs to be small to keep the speed down too. A 6" wheel will travel at 18" per revolution, a 2" wheel will travel at 6" per revolution.

If you are near Portland oregon I have a 29k4 that is for sale for $350, works well. But listen to wizcrafts, it is not a primary use machine.

As others have said, the uppers are great, the soles need work. Your stitching is great too.

Nice

Oregon Leather in Portland has them. Both top and bottom look almost identical with the caps on them.

Talcum powder is used during shoe construction as a lubricant to aid in the removal of the shoe last.

I played with it a little and it does work, but I do like glycerine saddle soap better. It is still one of the best ways I have found to burnish. I must admit though, saddle soap is not near as much fun to talk about as personal lubricant is.

If you are dealing with more than a few thousands of an inch you have an issue with soft steel. If the blade was cheap or if it has been overheated during sharpening it will make this happen. The burr that Paul is talking about will generally break off during sharpening or stopping.

First off, I recommend buying the color you want, dying can be risky. But, if I was going to dye them I would use Fiebings dye, you need to dilute it with denatured or isopropyl alcohol. Scrub the boots with deglazed first, then wipe them with dye, applied with Sheep wool. After the dye dries wipe the boots with a layer of néet foot oil. Then a layer of your favorite shoe cream. You may not be happy with the results, just be ready for that. Aaron

I have a set, they work great. They are the ones with the flat handle, look Iike the new Tandy ones.