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electrathon

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Everything posted by electrathon

  1. Graycloud knives are premium. Have had one for a few years and it holds an edge well. Zalesak knives are awesome too, I have a number of them.
  2. Sometimes letting your project sit for a day or two helps. The item may still be wet deep inside and you do not know that the inside moisture is there, allowing dye to wick onto your thread.
  3. I have one of these machines too, what a beast!
  4. I would look at another saddle and try to emulate the wear on it. As to changing the color it is difficult to say what finishes are on it so even with dyes it is an unknown what will happen.
  5. The best way to add tooling is to buy a different saddle. As to aging, depends on how aggressive you want to be. Wire brush, sandpaper, sunlight. Anything agressive will age it. You are trying to do 20 years of use in a few hours, so look at what would wear any concentrate on those spots.
  6. My double loop lacing is even tighter than that. 1/8th inch lace, 3/32nd inch slotted holes. Holes punched close to the edge. Two laces, not one (if you do not like the look, use two of the same color laces). I absolutely hate the spider leg look from wide spaced holes moved way in.
  7. Darn, that blew my road trip. You have a lot of cool equipment. Best of luck to you.
  8. Where are you located? Driving to you with a truck makes things a lot more desirable. Aaron
  9. The best awl you will find is a Bob Douglas awl. They are great, but expensive. An awl is not designed to be hit/pounded on, it should be just pushed through. The needles you are looking for are called harness needles. The ones you do not want are the big eye needles.
  10. I sent it through a screen with 3/16" holes. I lost about 1/3 of the bucket to waste by removing the bigger pieces. I have heard that if you want it more pulverized you can send it through the blender on a day your wife is at the clothing store. If the rubber pieces are smaller you will loose a little bit of strength since the pieces do not interlock.
  11. You need to be more specific on the style of shoe. Just about any chrome tanned (soft) leather will work. Some is better than others, and it depends on what you are making.
  12. Rubber grindings for moccasin soles. This is used to create a rubber slurry on the soles of your moccasins to waterproof the bottoms and make them slip resistant. This is done by mixing a slurry of Barge cement and rubber grindings. Stir till it is a thick goop. Then spread the goop over the bottom of the shoe. What you see in the picture is my processing plant, pretty low tech. The rubber is from a tire retread plant, then I sifted it to remove the larger shavings. You will receive a small flat rate box full of rubber, enough to do a large pair or two small pairs with some left over for touch ups if you start to wear out areas. $15 paypal will get some shipped out tomorrow. Aaron
  13. Possibly. You just have to find someone who does it a lot.
  14. First off, there is a large risk of you not being happy with the outcome, so only do this if you are ready for that. I would scrub it as clean as you van with solvent, leg it dry. Use the dye by applying it with a piece of trimmer sheepskin. Wipe in a circular manor. Keep moving fast. For a finish, use something like Dr Jackson's or some other shoe waterproofing.
  15. http://t.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-angle-grinder-60625.htmlThe tool is $15 and use a 20% off coupon. Not many tools available for so little money out there.
  16. I would use a 4" angle grinder with a very course sandpaper wheel. Lay the leather flat and grind the leather away till it is tattered looking.
  17. Hello and welcome. We have a leather workers support group that meets at Tandy every other week. Also Bob Beard is going to be teaching a class in Portland sept 11-13. Contact me if you are interested in either one. Aaron
  18. If you are using Fiebings dye you can draw all over it with a red ball point pen and the ink will disappear when you dye it.
  19. Looks very nice. Great consistency with spacing and tension. BUT, I can't believe that you do not have a rubber ball of a chunk of shoe midsole to back up your awl. Possibly it is jut for posing but my stomach turned a little when I saw the pic of your finger backing up the leather and the awl lined up to push. Again, great looking stitching. Aaron
  20. Malabar, any explanation on the rest of the hide? I have wondered for years why we can buy butts, but not the side.
  21. Hard confirmations 8 with about 5 more likely.
  22. I tossed a lot when I was learning, still do sometimes. Tossing out bad work makes you want to do better, because you are mad you had to start over. Polishing up turds makes your work the quality of a shiny turd.
  23. Not sure what you are planning to tool, but thin equals difficult when it comes to tooling. Also not sure what you consider this to be. Usually 3-4 oz is about as thin as you would want to tool with, and that can take some practice. Pretty much any leather dealer can sell it to you.
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