electrathon

Wood printing is really more like particle board than real wood. Similar to reconstituted leather is ground up leather, glued together. I guess if that is acceptable quality it may be an option. It defiantly is not in the same quality as the exotic woods this thread mentions.

I will speak up too. I do a lot of woodwork. What you are looking for is likely going to be done on a lathe. If you buy thousands of these tooling would be made and the CNC machine will do about half of the work. You would have to do the final part by hand. On a smaller scale you would have way more hand work and way more time. Personally, I would not make these for you for $15 each. I would have to think about it for $30 each. This is exactly the same as me offering you $8 to make me a wallet, as long as you pay the shipping. I can get a wallet off Amazon for that, so I am being more than fair with that price.

I have a large flat rate box full of wooden printing type. Almost all of it is one size, look at the tape in the pic. About 1 1/4". There are a handful of oddballs. The type has printers ink on it, you will want to clean it before you use it on leather. What you see in the pic is what I will be shipping. This type is WOOD. You need to press it in, not pound on it. There are tutorials on here about the use of printing type, you will see how it is done. Wooden printing type is hard to find, this is in the range of fifty years old. $75 paypal for the box, I pay the shipping. Aaron

Hmm, I found it, but so long ago. I will see if I can locate it.

Tandy stores are supposed to make the customer happy. They have the authority to fix complaints. They sell some very cheap stuff, but are supposed to work with you to resolve your unhappiness. That said, some managers are great and some are very bad.

Rebecca, First off, hello, and thank you for your service to the country. My son was a Navy MR for 5 years. You said a lot, I will answer one big question. No, you do not need a sewing machine. You can get by just fine hand sewing. Learn to do it right and it will look better than machine sewing, but it is a little slower. Aaron

1/4" is a lot.

Lifetime guaranties are generally a good thing to offer. Most people will never utilize it, some will abuse it. It will balance out and you will tend to sell more because you are a stand up person/shop.

$3.50 for shipping, that costs $3.50? Then you are not overcharging. $3.50 handling on top of what it really costs to ship? Then yes, it absolutely is gouging, totally and completely.The solution is very, very simple. Charge for shipping what it costs to ship. Charge for the product what the product costs (with your prophet included) what you need to sell the product for. Handling is nothing more than part of the cost of the product, just like sweeping the floor in your shop. Do you have a floor sweeping fee added to your order after the person is told the price?

I do not have an answer for you but this is a cool stitcher. I want one.

This attitude has always flabbergasted me, to say the least. What possible justification can possibly be used (aside from increased income) fits the above statement. But let me finish. You pay someone to answer the phone and do not gouge your customer for that. You pay someone to sweep the floor and do not gouge your customer for that. You pay someone to web design but do not gouge your customers for that. You pay someone to (on and on and on).....Bottom line is that "handling is totally and always a gouge fee (the real truth is a less polite word) unless you also add for the dozens of other costs that have nothing to do with production of your product. It is both dishonest and unfair to blindside customers with this extra prophet margin money grab. But then, you get more money but doing it. +2

The main trick issue to good lacing is consistency. Punch your holes straight and spaced even. Pull the lacing snug but not over tight. Use quality lace, preferably kangaroo. Wax your lace, I usually use paraffin. I punch my holes 3/32 and use 1/8 lace to help keep it all packed in tight. Practice. Aaron

Lead is all around us, we are exposed to it constantly. It is still no reason to up your exposure to it. I have always been shocked when leatherworkers advocate using it as a backstop for punching.

I do not have any direct help for you. Just wanted to comment that those are one of the coolest sewing machines ever.

There are a lot of pictures. More then there are words that I can not read.

If someone is selling them for $36 I would likely buy the rest of the set. For $60 it does make my bottom pucker up some.

I have that book (not for sale). It is a good book, just a little hard to read.

my favorite. it has the clearest instructions: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/61906-00.aspx

I would use a wet layer of contact on the filigreed side. Lay it in the back piece and weight it down till it dries. It will stick if you use quality glue (Renia, Barge, etc).

I think if the leather is that thick you will need to move up to triple of fourple loop to cover the edge properly.

I think you are seeing bone that has been stabilized. Epoxy is drawn into all of the crevices with a vacuum chamber. Do s search for "cactus juice" to see how it is done.

The counter top guys use epoxy to fill gaps.

The older machines (29-4s) use a very small bobbin, the newer ones just have a small bobbin. There are different arm lengths. Unless you have a spare stand, I would not want it without the stand.

RTC is made by Bee Natural.

Just pinch the lace between your thumb and the paraffin. Pull the lace through a few times. I often use a white candle.