cleanview

Jack ----would it be possible to see a back view of the holster with the thumb break? Trying to see how it is double layered to get the stiffener in there. Or could the stiffener be visible?

They are not believers in instructions thats for sure. To be clear......this is my tension setting for the top thread And the bobbin is where the bottom tension is set?

They are not believers in instructions thats for sure. To be clear......this is my tension setting for the top thread And the bobbin is where the bottom tension is set?

mine does not even have a bobbin cover??? I know about where the needle has to come to.......i aint real clear what is happening just know it is the rite time. I wait till the needle is just about up out of the leather, sometime it makes it out even. My skipped stitch I believe happened when I was making a gradual curve. AS I understand, when the presser foot (middle piece?) is down I can gentle work a curve. I must have just missed a beet. Over all, I am astonished at how simple it is. I need to do some tests and just watch the motion of the bobbin. I dont have it real clear in my mind exactly what it is doing. Thanks all again. I am sure there will be more conversation.

I really learned a lot from those videos. Keep in mind I was looking at them from not knowing nothing, so they were a wealth of information. Red - the back would be seen and I would not call it a stress point. To re sew it would be easy but I really cant imagine the needle going i every hole?

So here is my first mistake. During a turn I skipped a stitch. I understand why it happened but is there a way to fix it? Can I pull thread and re sew? Seems impossible to me but I don't know

I have watched those several times. they have been very helpful.

My machine is a cowboy 3200 I am pretty sure my needles are s needles but will have to check. Very informative, you guys are great.

I want to be clear I understand (be patient with me) 1. More than 6 stitches per inch is a problem? 2. The machine can pull the stitches into the leather I mean tension compared to hand stitching. 3. The information end of this machine is limited to what you can find on youtube. that has been a discouragement to say the least. the pictures in the worthless manual have no detail at all. I was sure I tightened the tension until I watched another video that made me think I tightened the wrong thing. 4. It seems like I should be able to get the bobbin thread to draw in a little more. My mind says that takes place adjusting the tension. The manual says don't. So I did just a little. 5. I have yet to see an answer if there is a way to "fix" mistakes that I will inevitably make with the machine. I know this a all the same forum but the interaction is better in the holster part. Hope you dont mind my machine questions

AS far as the making a left instead of a right. One of my first attempts and valued lesson was a cowboy holster for my wife for Christmas. Sure enough it came out left handed But on the bright side at that time my wife had not made up her mind and would shoot right one week and left the next. SHe was proud of it I have it now and it is one ugly holster! I have thought about re working the edges and cleaingingit up some but I have that one and my very first one just to remind me what the first ones looked like. So If i make an ugly one now, I can assure myslef by proof that I have made uglier

Super cool! I just sewed a cowboy western belt that I am going to use for a daily work belt. The wife walked in and said " your done! You did not even get to watch a movie!" That belt would have been at least a 2 hour movie.

Well here is progress. Still needs practice. this is the method that splash talked about. If i got it right here is what I did. Start with out any backstitch.......came around to finish the circle and just stitched over the first three stitches then burned the threads. Seems to have worked but still needs practice. the hardest part is not being able to see the needle as it pierces the leather. My pressor foot (or piece that the needle goes through if I got the name wrong) blocks that view. i saw video of another machine that you could see the needle as it entered the leather and that would sure make it easier to hit the hole.

Red cent- The machine came set up and I tightened it some and brought it from 5 per inch down to 6 per inch. Two needle pacs witht he machine marked 277 and 138 . It had 207 thread in it so I am sure the needle is the package markedd 277 which says size 25 Splash - Are you saying you uses the pass over stiches to lock them in?

Well here is my best attempt a start and stop with back stiching each end and then a box with back stitching to start wiht then overlapping three stitches to end with. Ugly is the only word to describe it

Thanks. Denster - I gues my logic was on the right trac just had it backwards, thanks Red cent ---- I have been stitching practice scraps trying to get it down and I have a work belt that has been ready for some time and it will be the first, then a simple cowboy holster (no welt) then a wingman holster. Do you put the superglue on the back side? I am assuming (thats all i can do with no experience) the best start place is a straight away and in the most hidden spot as well? If it all goes wrong and the backstitch portion looks horrible on an actual holster, is there any thing that can be done to fix it? I cant imagine there is but I am swimming new water here.

got my cb3200 yesterday and once it is set up it is much easier than I thought. I have never used any type of sewing machine. SO far the only mystery is how to get back stitching to look better.

So got the new cowboy 3200 yesterday and got it set up and lots of practicing and it is simple but then again a lot to figure out. The biggest frustration is the look of the backsticing which brings me to my question. If I am going to stop at the starting point that is wind up having done a circle. Can I start without any locking of the stitches and when I close the circle just go over the first three stitches and then back up three and have locked them up tight? And for a beginner how do you know the stitches are right? I mean not going to unravel? If they look good and you cant pull them, is that all I can do?

Well, the wife answered that one. So , next one,,,, Are there tricks to making the backstiching look better, its just kind of rough looking. Over all, this CB3200 that I got is starting out easier than I thought it might be. Not sure how much practice to do before I put it to work on a project.

1. I know I have to back stitch to lock it in at the end, but do I have to do it at the beginning as well?

People that want a cant (including me) want it for better daily carry. On a full size gun the but will show less with a cant.

Looks pretty good

Very interesting topic.......nothing to add but would love to hear experienced input

This is exactly the kind of thing i was talking about ina previous thread. What blue gun is the best money spent as a new holster maker. IE the blue gun that I can make the most holsters from.

seems like most of the thumb break holsters don't have the typical reinforcement piece? Is there a reason why?

I agree....there are a lot of things that are new ground to me, yet as I learn, I can look at a holster and think......that wont work right. I would love some detailed pics of thumb breaks on hoslters. I ASSUME that it is a regular snap and then the stiffener for breaking the snap open? And would probably be putting that hardware on at the very last step?????