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MrLentz

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Everything posted by MrLentz

  1. Hello, This question is for those who have worked with Springfield's "Top Grade Tooling Sides" and Wickett & Craigs tooling sides (Or Hermann Oak). I am wondering if there is a visible difference in quality between the two? I will not be carving at all, just cutting shapes and sewing and riveting, so I am looking for a leather that will look great. I have been using Springfield's for a while and have been very happy with it. So - is it worth it to pay a few dollars more for the Wickett just based on the final look? Thanks!
  2. Hello, I am just starting to look into buying leather in bulk, rather than just a couple of sides at a time. I have been buying 3-4 oz sides top grade tooling from springfield for $4.49 sq ft. I need something of similar quality but a bunch of sides at once - probably around 250 sq ft. More or less depending on price. - Where and how do I begin this process? - What are typical minimums? - In general will I save a lot? - Any other advice? Thanks in advance for the help!
  3. Wow - that's a great tip, I appreciate it!
  4. Actually - I have had some trouble dyeing my leather where my finger recently touched it. It seems as if the oil in my finger temporarily keeps the dye from penetrating. I resolved this by using 600 grit sandpaper on the spots that weren't absorbing.
  5. That seems like a good idea, some sort of plastic grate.
  6. Dwight - I didnt think about oiling the entire hide first, I guess I always thought this would prevent the dye from penetrating. Is this not the case as long as you let the oiled hide sit for a while? Also - do you have any recomendations for another all-natural wax mixture? I like that the Mahoney's is plain walnut oil, beeswax and palm oil. Are there any good liquid ones without the chemicals? Thanks!
  7. Well, I am making a bunch of wallets out of 3/4 oz leather. I first use extra virgin olive oil, then I rub in Mahoney's walnut oil and beeswax mixture. The wax is already very fluid so it easily rubs in and absorbs. I have had trouble over oiling small pieces in the past - so I don't know if dipping them would work too well. Thoughts?
  8. Thanks Dwight, my pieces are only 3/4 oz. so I think it is too hard to get a push pin in there, any other ideas?
  9. I am wondering if anyone has used an air compressor to apply oil to their leather and even wax? Bascially I am trying to speed things up as right now I am applying oil by hand with a shop towel. I was thinking I might be able to spray it on. Dipping it is probably out of the question? Any other ideas are much appreciated! Thanks!
  10. Hello, I am about to dip dye several small pieces of leather and I am looking for a good way to dry them on some sort of shelf or rack. Does anyone have any good idea for a rack system of drying, say if you have to dry 100 small pieces and couldn't fill up all your tables? There must be some sort of plastic grating that allows airflow? Thanks!!
  11. Hello, I was wondering if there exists a number punch thatwill quickly and easily line up 4 numbers in a row and give the ability to rotate them... much the same as those inked date stamps work except ths would be non-inked and punched into the cased leather. I number all of my pieces in the order which they were created, so I am looking to speed this process up a bit! Thanks!
  12. Thanks everyone - I am glad the tutorial was helpful.
  13. I sure do! Just want to hammer in the fact that these aren't mass-produced items. That each one has a number, unlike some larger brand names that pump out thousands and thousands of pieces a year.
  14. Thanks Kings! I tried to be as detailed as possible. Hopefully I can keep creating new tuts for different areas of leatherworking.
  15. I know there are as many ways to make a belt as there are belt makers, but here is my take. A detailed photographed tutorial on the steps I take and why... http://www.mrlentz.c...a-leather-belt/
  16. I think about 5 per inch not too many, not to little either.
  17. Is this to keep better tension on the stitches? Also - another option is for me to punch the holes myself, but for peed, I am trying to find an 8 prong angled lacing chisel...any ideas on if it exists? Thanks!
  18. Ahh - you mean to pass the second needle through a loop on the other side to lock it?
  19. Thanks for the tip! What do you mean by 'casting it'? Should I tell Texas custom dies that?
  20. Hello, I am about to get a die cut from Texas Custom Dies. I am having them put stitching slots in the die for me to save some time on my end. Usually I use a diagonal shaped 4 prong punch to cut my stitching slots. However TCM is not able to put diagonal slots in their dies. They can only put horizonal or vertical ones in. I am wondering which is better and what are some of the issues with either I may not know of? I still want the nice diagonal looking saddle stitch, but not sure which will have the better effect. The photo below should explain it better. Thanks for the help! Evan
  21. Hello, I am about to purchase the Texas Custom Dies Air Run clicker press, but I was wondering if anyone here can post a short video of it working? Maybe upload a quick iphone video of you using it for a few seconds. I don't fully understand how fast it works or what is happening. I do have the photos for it already, but video would be great! Or if you have a manula run one, that video would be great too! Thanks for the help!
  22. Hello, I wanted to see how other experienced leatherworkers are marking and cutting their leather for more advanced projects. Right now I find myself using one of those rolling blades pressed against a metal ruler - typically used for cutting fabric. How are people cutting more advanced shapes such as curves, or just in general? Thanks!
  23. Hello, I am wondering if anyone knows of a good website or book with images of leather goods from the 1800's. I am looking for a wild west type of style - practical items that people used. Such as saddle bags, belts, hand bags, and any other item that may have been common back then. Thanks!
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