MrLentz
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Everything posted by MrLentz
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Great - thank you for the tips! Welding gloves are a great idea.
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Hello, I have been trying to find some very durable leather gloves for more intense yard clearing. The ones I find at most stores wear out quickly and just aren't that great! Does anyone know where to find the real good quality cowhide gloves that say farmers/ranchers use that can hold up to quite a lot? Thanks!
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Thanks for the tips! I definitely was considering the closed cell spray foam insulation. It seems like that stuff is the best way to insulate these steel buildings. Though I believe it can be quite costly...but worth it in the longrun
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Hello! I have been working out of a small space for quite a while, but recently have the opportunity to move into a 2,000 square foot steel building. Yes I know - I could park a 747 in there. Most of it wont be used for production, but I was wondering how to heat the place for winter? Outside air temps are typically 40 degrees. It's got 18 ft. ceilings and is pretty much a large open space. I was thinking at first - using vented propane radiant tube heating. However, since this is infrared heating and heats objects....does anyone have experience with using this type of heating with leatherwork below? Is it a bad idea? I can hang them fairly high. The other option is forced air via one of those hanging units, or possibly a typical home furnace. That seemed a bit of a waste considering the size of the space and height of the ceiling. All of the hot air would go to the top! Anyhow - just looking to see if anyone has experience heating a space this large, especially for leatherwork and any considerations for it. Thanks!
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That seems to be a good trick, though it does sound like a lot of work! Sorry to hear they donated yours to a thrift store, where's the decency!
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Ah yes - because you can rotate the needle direction on those machines. I need to use thicker thread though, but I guess that would be the tradeoff
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Back before I owned a leather sewing machine I had dreamed up a few designs with the gusset seam as shown below in the photos (not this same bag, but just the seam on it). Once I got my first machine I quickly realized this style of seam did not appear to be possible using a sewing machine. It is not your typical seam, just an overlap of leather. I know it is possible to do this by hand stitching, but I had seen photos of this same bag in brown with what looked like a backtacking that a machine would have done. Is there a way to machine sew this style of seam I am just not thinking of (a patcher could do it possibly, but I have a regular cylinder arm and a flatbed consew)?
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Needle touching right side of holster plate slot on cobra 4
MrLentz replied to MrLentz's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thanks - that's good to hear! -
Hello, As I continue to set up and use my new Cobra 4 sewing machine I have been speaking with the Leather Machine Co. to figure out a strange issue. I thought I would also put it up on here in case others have had the same problem, or in case we find a good solution, in which case - we can all benefit! Upon installing either the stirrup plate or holster plate, it is apparent that the needle comes down very close to the right hand side of the slot. On the holster plate the needle pretty much touches the right side of the slot. This is with the plate installed as far to the right as possible. In the instructions it says to have the needle more to the left side of the slot when using any of the plates. Basically a business card thickness between the left side of the slot and needle is necessary. If it is in the center or to the right of center you risk skipped stitches or frayed thread. - So far they have sent me out a new needle clamp that screws up into the needle bar. The new clamp did not change the position of the needle at all. - I then made a suggestion that perhaps the stirrup plate and holster plate need to be ground down on the right side to allow more play when installing. My reasoning is because the needle seems like it comes down center or just off right of center of the feed dog (when installed), and that the top stitch plate seems to be installing just fine as per instructions. I only have issue with the holster or stirrup plates. I am still waiting to hear back about that suggestion for grinding the plates down, I certainly don't want to patch something when there is a better way to adjust/fix though. Anyone else had to grind the plates down to fix their placement on these Cobra 4 machines? I'll keep updating as I hear back.
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haha, well as long as it is not a patch for a bigger problem i'm fine with it!
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Yeah - I am not sure, it did stop it from skipping. My guess is that when the outer foot is going up, the inner foot is pushing down - and due to how the linkage is set up there must be some lateral force on the outer foot bar with the spring. Both feet use that same spring for tension, so the inner foot looks like the lateral force is counteracted by applying equal force using the bushing against the wall. Without enough pressure on the bushing plate, the rod probably bends ever so slightly. Same with too much pressure is my guess as well.
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Ok, just to clear this problem up - it has been solved. Leather Machine Co got back to me after seeing the videos, it turns out the problem had to do with the steel plate on the inside back of the case where a roller bearing rolls up and down it as the presser bar lifts. Turns out the plate was not close enough to the bearing, so I loosened the top screw on it, applied pressure pushing it closer to the bearing, then tightened the screw back down. Problem solved!
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Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I am getting back in touch with them to keep troubleshooting this. I know from this forum they have good support which is why I chose to buy from there. I have wiped out the interior of the case and oiled every moving part, so it's probably a bit more technical at this point. Here are two videos of the stutter. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/277783/IMG_0203.mp4 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/277783/IMG_0202.mp4
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I did try that in 1/8 turns to see if there was a good location, but doesn't seem to make a difference. That's my concern though - is a poorly drilled hole in the case, would that mess up the machine in the longrun? Kind of bummed because I also am having a problem with the needle holder and bar. Apparently the needle is skewed off to the right by about 1/16 inch and just about hits the holster plate even when installed entirely to the right. I am getting a new needle holder to see if that is the issue, but overall it's starting to seem like I might have a lemon. I have been asking Steve at leather machine co, but no answers on this part so I wanted to see if anyone else had a similar issue
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Hello, I just purchased a new cobra 4 sewing machine and have been noticing that when sewing slowly the outer presser foot comes up in a very jumpy manner. Kind of like a stutter. It kind of concerns me that the rod holding the outer foot might be off in some way - and I don't want to continue any damage to this new machine if something isn't set right. Anyone have this issue with that outer presser foot when it is pulling up? Still does it even when I pulled the foot off. The rod is pushing up on the large tension spring on the inside of the case, so my thoughts are that this could just be some physics about the slow speed against a high pressure spring. Any thoughts? Just want to make sure either way before moving forward!
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Thanks everyone, that certainly helps clear things up. @Bikermutt, I am getting a lot of my initial zipper learning just from the Al Stohlman book on Making Leather Cases volume 2. On page 28 he breaks it all down. Then there are a few cases that illustrate techniques for attachment.
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Hello, I am finally learning to sew a zipper into a case, a small dopp kit. I was wondering if there is any big difference between the aluminum zippers vs. brass? I like the aluminum color better, but are there any downsides in using them? To me aluminum seems like a soft metal so possibly it could fail much faster. Thanks!
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Hello, I am re-making a new pair of these moccasins for myself out of real shearling. Upon inspecting the machine stitching on the back (the curved stitches noted by the arrows), I was wondering if anyone knew how you would stitch this part on a machine? It seems awkward to try and fit it on a cylinder arm sewing machine, but maybe it is forced into place? Or would they use a patch machine where you can rotate the feet to sew in any direction? Thanks!
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Thanks guys - I should probably make them with the better quality materials for myself!
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On second thought - it looks like some sort of suede with a natural lining that was sewn in. Anyhow, any guesses at similar materials that would work for a project like this?
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Hello, I have a pair of these: https://www.minnetonkamoccasin.com/men/styles/slippers/pile-lined-softsole-men And just for fun, I wanted to make another pair, but was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a similar sheepskin? I am guessing it's a 5/6 suede with the sheep fur on? Thanks!
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Well it does seem to soak in a little. But is there anything better to use on latigo to prevent the dye from rubbing off? After quite a bit of research on the forums Bee Natural RTC was the best option I was finding
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I Just tried it on a strap and looks like you have to wipe it down after dipping anyways to remove the excess or it will make a whitish area where maybe it too much sat on top. I am using it on latigo - so not sure if that affects how fast it sets in. I am hoping it helps keep black latigo from rubbing off onto light material.
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Hello, I was wondering if it is possible to dip leather into RTC Resist and Finish? If so, is there a good technique to get it to come out right? Or is it better to just brush on with a wool dauber? Thanks!
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Thanks - yeah I can see it probably needs to be a good tight fit.