Sylvia

Another thing I do is I keep the back side toward my dominant hand. (right handed, back side to right side) I don't know if that makes a difference or not, but it may be helpful

Hmmm.... hard to tell from those pictures, but it almost like your "back" side is looser than your front. I use a punch rather than an awl to make my holes... But are you using an overstitch wheel to or marking your stitches prior to using the awl? If not you might try that. Also when I do stitching I perform the same exact movements over and over.... often pulling the first thread out of the way while I put the needle through for the second thread. I do this the same way ever time.... then pull both treads snug.

Here's a source for a printed manual. http://www.campbell-...product_id=1414 Here's another source http://www.proleptic.net/products/index/10?page=3 Not much help right now... but I'm sure it is something you will need eventually.

Cheryl What are the ingredients of the bag balm? Do you have any idea? To the Original poster. I use PURE Neatsfoot oil before and after I dye. I've also used the compound but I found that the compound stuff can sometimes play havoc with the color of the dye. (orangy browns turning yellow-ish) I apply it by hand and work it in and flex the leather toward the flesh side if I want to keep the hair side smooth. Then allow it to "equalize/dry" for several hours before I dye. Patience is a virtue in leather working... many projects have been ruined by hurrying.... so don't.

Dang! I hope you took an extra suit case for all those Japanese leather working tools you SHOULD be bringing back for us. LOL Have a safe trip.

Cheryl: People will almost always buy "Quality" or perceived "Value for the money." BUT...They also have to have the disposable income in order to afford the item. Think about some of the "brand name" purses that were originally made in the USA. They were perceived as Quality purses and people paid a premium price for them. Then all of a sudden "Dooney and Burk" started having their purses made "over there." So the Quality that was once perceived is now more a "perceived value " thing. http://www.horsekeeping.com/Dooney/Dooney-Bourke-char.htm A friend recently said... Sell to the classes.... eat with the masses. Sell to the masses... Eat with the Classes. Meaning sell many, many pieces for a modest profit and you'll be more successful. I can see their point. BTW... they are selling over 100 pieces of their product per month. I don't know if they are eating with the classes yet... but they sure are busy.

Hi I couldn't find a cap pattern... but here a site that explains how to make your own pattern. http://www.coonskincap.com/coonskin.htm

That's interesting, Allen. I wonder what they would do if someone came with a huge flat bed trailer and wiped out their scrap?

May I suggest investing in a 30X jeweler's loop? They are Very helpful for seeing those dastardly Gs which look way too much like Os. OOMPH!! <tea spew> ha ha ha ha! Very cool tool and lucky find. Congrats.

Pssst. Go to the granite counter top place and ask to rifle through their off cuts and stuff they are throwing away. A kitchen sink cut out is ideal.... and I got mine for $10. I also got a bath sink cut out for FREE. You can also get head stones from the stone workers who do that... Those are heavier and may cost a bit more... but typically they can be had fairly cheap if you have a sturdy truck and a couple buddies to help you load and haul them.

Grumble Grumble >bark!< >bark!!< (pick up in Atlanta... dog gone it.)

Plus one on the sharpening jig. Keen edge is the one Tandy sells. The difference I suspect is that your Stohlman blade is tool steel a much harder metal. The good news is once you have the blade where you want it... it will stay sharp with little maintenance.

Springfield is still considered a favored leather supplier. I like http://www.stecksstore.com for tandy products (cheap fast shipping and good prices)

Oh I don't have one of these yet. My knives are Barry King, Al Stohlman and a couple of Craftool Deluxe adjustable ones. I use the Barry King and Al Stohlman the most for cutting and the Deluxe ones from Craftool I have my beveler blade and beader blades in. I'm saving my Cash for a sewing machine so this Tangleboss will have to wait. The difference is that the blade swivels instead of the whole barrel. It allows for tighter turns and more control for hands with issues. Look it up on Youtube... there's a couple videos on how they work.

LOL If they go to walmart... they will be back. I have a few acquaintances who don't want to pay my price.... but plenty of others do. I figure they will come around eventually. There's a saying I learned when I was an Avon lady... "Some will, some won't, some are waiting."

Oooo hadn't seen this one yet. Very nice.

Hi Chavez: There is a UK fellow that did a side by side comparison of different finishes. Here is the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

I think it's pretty simple. Calculate the cost of the leather, and dyes and other materials. Double that... then add your hourly rate what ever you figure your time is worth.

Very cool! Glad you got pictures of the Debut.

OMG That's Funny! LOL! The holster looks awesome Dwight.

Hmmm... I've not tried it and I don't know anyone who has. I know that there is one guy who makes an embossing die to decorate Rivets. Maybe something like that would do what you need right on your silver toned snap faces?? He calls them "Branded Rivet Domers" They are expensive (IMHO) but I like the concept.

My father was a butcher and meat cutter. And much like Ferg's Grandpa... shaving the hair off his arm was one method to test sharpness and when his arms were bare ... she would call my sister in. LOL.. I learned to make myself scarce when dad got to the "shaving" stage. . Another was to test it by cutting a piece of butcher paper. Basically you want your edge so sharp and polished that it takes NO EFFORT to cut. (It's the effort required to make the dull edge work is what makes it dangerous... And to make matters worse the dull edge tears instead of making a clean cut.. which complicates the healing process.)

Hi Jake: Yes... I've noticed that some of the finishes "for" leather smell like other things... like floor cleaner and Elmer's glue. I'm sure if you look up the Safety sheets for Mop & Glow and compare them to other "leather finishes" you'll find they are very similar.

Somewhere I found a set of "Daddy's Rules for Leather Carving" One of them was to wrap the leather in brown paper bags before you put them in the plastic. Ah... here it is. http://www.legendsandlies.com/docs/pdfs/Ben_Greg_Moody_Rules.pdf I think the purpose of brown paper is to protect the surface of the leather from sweating and creating an environment that mold loves.