Studio-N

I have to say this came out rather nice. 3d plate for wallets or other projects. cheers!

I'm on a roll until the work starts piling up. This is a new wallet back roughly 3.2 x 2.6" with a running horse. Much more wholesome than some of my other subjects. Cheers!

well for just cutting (2d work) it's pretty straight forward transition. There is a bit of a learning curve for 3d modeling. Mostly making sure the model isn't too high/low for the material being used.

Thanks Biglew, got the 60th anniversary CNC shark from rocker. Equivelant to a HD Shark plus. I'm very happy with it. I've taken to it very well. Of course I already had Aspire software for the 3d stuff so it's just been a matter of learning to generate the gCode for the machine instead of TIFF files for the laser. Cheers!

correct Lew, still using delrin and cutting it on a new CNC. Working my way up to aluminum. Already broke a bit trying to cut it.

This is a new wallet back embossing plate fresh off the CNC. I took a fishscale (or dragonscale if you prefer) checkering pattern and transfered it over. I've added a closeup of the scales. I'm thinking of redoing this and adding just a hint of a border to better protect thos outside scales, but otherwise pretty pleased with it. Cheers!

totally cool.

very nice find!

i thought this was differnt and interesting, I hope others get a kick out of it: http://www.instructables.com/id/Functional-Leather-Respirator/

sorry I don't know anything about the tagging part. Compared to the Evil Empire, I'll probably be far more reasonable. just have to get past the learning curve first. -nick

My CNC machine finally came in and after a few bad starts I finally got a 3D embossing plate that I'm happy with. It's of an adult nature so I won't post it here but it is in the adult section. It was really smooth after being machined and was usable with only a washing of the plate. I'll post some as I get them done. Cheers!

well done! it really pops.

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thanks Billybopp, I'm waiting for some materials to come in that are of a better starting size. What I had on hand was 1 3/4" diameter which fits very tight on the Speedy embosser even with the table all the way down. A 1 5/8 should work perfect and I won't have to stand there and hand turn these down to size. Unfortunately, I was told today there is about a 10 day wait before they will ship. After that I will start producing some. But if you have some ideas, just let me know and I'll see what we can do for you. After my CNC comes in, I may move to brass rollers but that's another learning curve for me. Itch, that is a beautiful belt.

I got the bugs worked out of making the embossing roll and rolled out this belt strip. It made sense to dye it green and I've added a vintage Peace sign buckle. I'll be making up some new embssing rolls as soon as I get some free time.

I've done 1/2" but it was a solid figure with no real details. I've done just letters like MADE IN USA down to 1/4" with good results. For stuff that has figure/lines/detail, I try to keep everyone at 1" or more, but somethings work out fine at 3/4" except that the lettering gets small.

what part broke? I know you can add some 'bridges' for support between the open spots for strength. As long as they are below the surface enough to not be pressed in it might help. You might also make the base with a bit of a bevel so that if bottoms out you don't get much of the base impressed. Great looking experiment. Keep going. -Nick

Here you go: https://www.standardrivet.com/spots/13-coin-holders.php Standard rivet makes coin holders that act like spots. Should not hurt the coins. Cheers!

Its a small Shark Pirahna from Nextwaveautomation. I've already got ASPIRE for my laser as the software which does 2D and 3D design.

I've often been asked if I could do an embossing roll and I finally got a little time to work on one. This is done in the same delrin plastic I use for my stamp and plates. The first version of this just had the figures cut in. Because the surface is slick, it did not grab. I added a texture to it which gives the stamp enough friction to pull the leather in. This is a 1 1/2" belt blank embossed on the Speedy embosser (same as the current offering from the evil empire). This is the least flexible of the embossers, so it should work on the Tippmann and the last offering from the Evil Empire embosser or anything that uses a 1" center bore. Besides the surface preperation, I had to figure out how to safely and accurately center bore it and cut the key slot in. The real trick is getting the start to equal the end so it stops engraving after 1 revolution. There is no information out there from those that offer such things, so I've had to reinvent the wheel. But now that I've done it I can add whatever figures and patterns on rolls for use. I think if I stain this belt green it will look nice. Cheers!

I have a few and I belive they are cast so you have to have at least one really good model. The resin mix is the secret and the makers of those are pretty tight lipped about it.

I think it will work out fine. I don't know if the ABS plastic used to 3d print is brittle so for a plate a press would definately work best (no blunt force trauma like with a mallet). BUT, since you can print most anything, maybe you can have him print it complete with a handle so you can do a strength test. Those 3d printers have definately come down in price. maybe someday after I recover the cost of the cnc. While I'm waiting on the CNC to come in (next week I hope), I'm experimenting with making some embossing rolls. Another eye opener. But I've got one prototype done and redoing a second one that didn't work out (but I figured out why). I'll post some pictures once I get a nice looking strap done.

oh, and to answer the original post, mine looks like this. It's suppose to represent a laser beam.

Hello. Since I make them, I can tell you that the top and bottom curved lines look best in a bold font at around 9 to 10 point size. That allows for at least 13 letters without it wrapping beyond the center. If it's longer than that it can still fit but you have to reduce the font size. I wouldn't go below a 6 point font. there is usually plenty of size in the middle for text and for a figure it is usually about .35 - .45". All this applies to the 1.25" long maker mark. If you need it smaller, the font gets smaller so it is less visible. Hope this helps. -Nick

thank you all.