Studio-N

This was an attempt at the last supper. It is in silhouette and is 1.25" high by 2.75" long. Although it is in silhouette it is instantly recognizable. It should be ok on a wristband. Cheers!

Right On!

This was done in delrin. I've got my CNC machine on order so I know it will be useful on some of my applications, plus i'll be able to transition to some light metals as well. But I'll continue with the delrin on CNC since the material really only has to be harder than leather to work. Don't forget that it's also important to have the right software to do this. Here is another stamp that was successful. While I'm not showing the profile, there is a slight dome to the crown of the skull on which I have added an anarchy symbol that sits atop the dome. The software has to create at least a 16bit greyscale to get a good result. 8 bit greyscales end up not giving you enough shades to attach different power levels to, so it comes out more blocky than the 16 bit. I'm using ASPIRE which is for CNC routers and is expensive. For regular 2D stamps (text, silhouettes, flat figures) I'm still working with Corel Draw which you'll find does a fine job. As for the textured surface, it is a consequence of the greyscale. When you tune your machine, WHITE will be 0%. Which means only things at the surface level of the material. Every thing else is a shade of grey and gets hit with the laser at some power level other than zero. So the entire stamp face is one big pixelated surface (hence the texture). When you lay out a 2d stamp, it is 0 or 100%. so there are large areas that are untouched which form an even depth smooth impression. Once you do a couple it all comes together. I have seen a couple of things done with the 3D printer and I think it will work. I also think it will leave a textured surface because while they don't advertise it much, much of the stuff 3d printed still requires a little sanding. I have to say it's getting expensive for these new developments. It sometimes takes 3-4 iterations to get it the way I want it. But at the same time, I haven't had this much fun in years.

kits have been sold.

thank you Tom.

Thanks for looking. I'm selling off a lot of the kits I have acquired at sales or that are leftover from my flea market store. I'm no longer doing the flea mkt and would rather pass these on in one lot. It total there are 17 kits. Most are from Old Tandy and New Tandy. Cost is $70 plus shipping (Large flat rate box $18) and a good deal for beginners not wanting to pay the average $12-$30 from the evil empire. This is about $5 kit. Contact me at nicksilva@yahoo.com. I will send a paypal invoice to the first interested party or I can take a CC over the phone. Here's the list: -Hugger watch band kit -Hatbank kit -Deluxe Checkwriter/wallet kit -Watch Pocket Kit -Top Notch Wallet Kit x 4 -Oxbow Spur Strap Kit -Mens Deluxe Billfold Kit -Dog Collar Kit x 3 -6 oz flask kit x 2 -8 oz flask kit -Nannette purse kit (insides only) I will be offering more items soon as I clean up the shop for the winter.

thank you. I think I've got the new modeling software figured out so I'm going to start converting some of my current stamps into larger plates and try to make them more 3d like.

thank you.

this is a new wallet back plate I just finished. It is on and angel and demon skull. The leather here is only 3-4 oz, so it's not as high an embossing on say 8 oz, but I was quite pleased with the outcome.

thank you, Tom.

Well here are a few more experiments. Not everything is gold but it sure is fun learning. The celtic circle was rather unimpressive. It is rather flat looking. I'm sure I can just make a regular stamp and have it look the same and be usable as a hammer stamp. The rose and leaves came out great. It should be stampable. The Christmas tree had a good outcome and is stampable. The Jesus face came out more like the Shroud of Turin. I'll try some other models and come up with a good one. Despite that, this took a lot of pressure on the arbor press. The pit bull is just mean looking. Unfortunately, this takes a lot of pressure and would not make for a good hammer stamp.

This is kind of an extension of my earlier thread about trying to make 3d stamps. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the expensive software so I can begin doing some real modeling (and be able to save them). this is the result of using a 3d model from woodworking that I got off ebay. I scaled it to 3" long. There are TONS of models available so I'm sure I'll find some useful ones while I'm learning to create my own. I still have some things to work out all over again like speed/power/depth on the laser but it sure is fun learning something new. Like before, it takes a lot of pressure for this so these aren't going to be hammer stamps unfortunately. It's been fun finding the CNC communities out there and it is really fun for me combining all these things together. Hopefully I'll get the cnc machine by years end and I can keep learning some things, Cheers!

in theory yes. Wood I know. Metals will be a whole new learning curve and mountain of broken bits. I know soft metals are easy, but moving on to brass and stainless has special considerations. There is a lot of info and videos on the internet I'll just have to find the best websites and study a while. Plus I have to locate some suppliers. Cheers!

thank you J. I think I figured out how to fix the hatband. Just a simple line to break the band from the hat texture should make it pop. Cheers!

Looks Great!

.....It is difficult with a laser engraver. I've attached two pictures of two different 3D stamp attempts. First a little technical background: Doing 3D with the laser depends on some specialized artwork. It needs to be a 16 bit (versus the normal 8bit) greyscale drawing. If you think of 8 bit as x and y coordinates, the part of the 16 bit drawing defines the height (power) of each of the shades of grey. Normal paint programs don't do this. CAD/CAM programs that talk to a CNC router for instance, do. Some will allow the output of the 16 bit drawing. Therein lies the first difficulty. COST. I'm playing with trial version of ASPIRE which is (only) $2K. Some programs go north of $8K. I'm probably going to pull the trigger on the ASPIRE software since i'll be going the CNC route work by the end of the year. Drawing programs like Corel Draw do let you do a gradiated fill in grey shade but it is still 8 bit and the results are more what is referred to as 2.5D. I've done a couple like that, and it worked ok for a dome or heart, but nothing with sharp transitions. The second problem is PRESSURE. All of the 2D stamps I've done or used from the evil empire are basically outlines and while they can look quite good they are strictly 2D and easy to impress with a mallet. The 3D stamps from the evil empire really do require a lot of pressure. They are sold as hammer stamps but you really got to beat them good to get them to 'bottom out' and give a good raised impression or depression. I usually use a 3 lb maul but the press gives the best results. So looking at the 1.5" STAR - this wasn't too bad. It's difficult to see here without an Isometric view, but you can see the line in the center of each point. This is the high point, and it does in fact slope down to the edge of the point. It probably slopes from zero to about 6 oz on this 9 oz leather. I tried it with the mallet, and no way. I had to finally press it on my 1 ton arbor press to get it to bottom out. There is some texture on the star but remember that these files are generated for a cnc router where the finish cut is a smooth bullnose router bit which leaves things baby smooth. There is a certain amount of separation between each dot for the laser which is generating the texture. It is something I'll have to play with when I get the real software but I wasn't upset with this result. The Hat was more of an exercise in shading which definitely results in the texture. It definitely has the look, but the hat band and buckle didn't have a lot of definition in the file. That's something I can play with at another time when I have a dead day. So basically, I have a whole new respect for those guys making these on a CNC and what it takes to make them look good. I should have mentioned it took twice as long to cut these as they normally do. I'm going to look forward to getting the CNC and play more with making 3d stamps. Although it will work in Delrin, I'll probably switch to aluminum when I make them again. Thanks for listening. I know this isn't about 'real' leather working but I do enjoy making them and thanks to a bunch of you guys and gals, I get to keep making them. Cheers!

this is not my press it just shows the modification. But, I use my press for embossing and clicking. I have the one from Weaver.

If anything else, you can simply wash the leather in the sink. I will not hurt it, but it may cause some stiffness in it.

Credit to BeachsideHank on comping up with using a valve wheel to bleed the cylinder off without using a tool.

I got a manny head on ebay. I found it to be undersized. I found the styrofoam ones at Hobby Lobby. The nice thing about the styrofoam ones is you can use stick pins to hold the leather in place while it dries. Cheers!

do a google image search for "scroll saw silhouettes patterns" and it will bring up 1000's of patterns including this Einstein portrait. If you're wanting to make your own I have found Adobe Photoshop has the best tools for doing this.

My advise..... get one of these:

That is just more ridiculous pricing from the evil empire. but, some people will pay it.

totally cool.

Leather Sheen = Super Sheen = satin sheen = acrylic. Resolene = acrylic. Leather Balm = carnuba wax. Tan Kote = resin NeatLac = oil and wax lacquer Tan Pro finish = cellulose lacquer Gum Tragacanth = starch saddle soap = Glycerin