PutnamLeather

Same thing with plain sadlesoap, I tried gum trag for a long time and hated it.

It lloks like 2 oz pig skin with a suade lining. All you need to cut it is some sharp sisors. It looks like the suade and skin are just glued together but not sewn so you'll need some good bonding cement. All the hardware is rivited on so you'll need a rivet seter and of course the rivets. And it looks to me like the design is just drawn on with a ballpoint pen.

Hey, you made it just in time for coffee. A good quality masking tape on the back of your leather befor casing will keep it from deforming. Also you could rubber cement it onto a thin piece of cardboard.

When I'm burnishing really thin leather like that I lay it flat on the marbel and just push in and down with my fingertips as flush as possable. It seams to work well for me. Good luck.

You could either try gluing the edges together befor sewing, or check out kevin kingd tutorial about wallet making. I've only made a couple wallets but have laced the edges on all of them.

I've been bmaking a few pairs lately and have been having good luck with putting it about 3/8" from the edge.

It sounds like its a veg tan split.

I have some buckskin I wanted to dye, I was thinking of using an air brush and also air brush 50/50 res and water over that. I haven't tried it yet due to lack of air brush. Just an idea.

I did the same thing a while back and just hung it outside for a few days. It seamed to work ok.

Or maybe a rubber stamp?

There's a book called the art of making leather cases. Its a pretty good book, helped me out quite a bit. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/61941-01.aspx

The sides and back are basicaly the same, sand with sandpaper like you would with wood. Then burnish, I like using sadlesoap, some people use gum trag, but after it looks like you want it to you should be able to paint or dye it however you want. The gum t acts like a resist though so it might be hard to dye after. Bob park has a great tutorial about how to finnish edges that is the best I've ever seen. And like they say, practice makes perfict.

I haven't tried it on leather but you can get concentrated sulfuric acid at lowes, its car battery acid. People use it for clearing drains and washing drivewaws. It can be some nasty stuff if your not carefull but it will definatly give you the acid burned look.

I don't know how much help this will be but Will Ghormley makes leather look worn and used for movies. What kind of used are you looking for? http://www.willghormley-maker.com/

I like to think of it as creative stiching, as long as it gets the job done and looks good its the rite way to do it.

The only thing I have tried so far has been to dye it as usuall, and after the last coat of resoleen is dry put a few coats of weatherproofing on it. It seams to work for now but hasn't been through the time test yet.

The farthest I like to take gt is to the trash and drop it off. I've never had good results with it, once I found out how well saddlesoap works and that it can be died after burnishing I never want back to the trag.

I've always had the same results with mahogany that you have no matter what I did with it. If I was going to try to replicate the pic my first guess would be different shades of timber brown.

I get this stuff from walmart called ShoeGoo, it seams to work pretty well.

Awesome, so it looks like if the short strap is 25in, the long should be aboul 50in. Thanks for the assist.

Hey guys, seeing your post got me interested in making this style sling too. So thank you. I found a lot of people talking about them and how to use them, but nobody says how long the "long" and "short" peices are. So I was hoping you would know, and let me know.

Agreed, circle gets the squair. I use an orbital sander.

There's really no reason not to try on scrap leather, and if you like the look you can stick with it but it will look a lot different than the stiching groover. I've got the one from tandy that has a removable guid so it can become freehand.

Hello. When you wet the leather it can take 6 to 8 hours to dry and if you press it between something it can take up to 24 or more. And the edges will almost always seperate like that if you don't glue them really well befor sewing them together.

Ya, the tracing film will probably be your best bet as it won't tear as easy.