Matt Alsaker

I don't think there is an H&K in this pattern pack, but it's not a bad place to start. http://springfieldleather.com/32523/Pattern-Pack%2CHolster%2C5styles/ Otherwise check out the pattern amking video on Adams Leather Works and just make your own pattern. http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/hows-it-made/

Here is what I came up with. I used two piece of 6/7. I'm very happy with it's rigidity, but think I'll go with the advise from the Mike's and try a piece of 8/9 on the outside with a thinner piece for the liner. The belt barely makes it through the 1/4" belt slots I cut, which makes for a nice snug fit. I don't think it has even happened where I wanted to get back to work from vacation, but I want to start wearing it - still would rather be on vacation though.

Check out the bottom pic... http://www.miltsparks.com/4C_carriers.htm

Usually I'm looking at your stuff for inspiration, so I'm probably not going to be much help here. This is a mag pouch I've made a few of. It's nothing special. I've thought of putting a reinforcing piece on the front for a more finished look. I use a pull the dot locking snap on the back. The pouch's picture were for a Glock 17 magazine, so the size of the magazine adds to the bulky look.

I'm going to attempt my first belt. It's going to be your typical trouser belt, not a western gun belt. I was considering using two layers of 6/7 oz leather. Is that that going to provide enough support when wearing a holster or should I be going heavier, maybe two layers of 8/9 oz?

The pattern was taken from Will Ghormley's 1911 pattern pack. I believe on his website he refers to the holster style as the "pancake", but in the pattern pack he calls it the "hugger". I use the same construction methods he lays out in the pattern pack, but modified the back plate and holster to fit my Glock 17. I also made a few adjustments to the design some it was exactly how I wanted it.

I posted my first attempt at airbrushing a couple weeks ago. I made a few adjustments to the holster design and how I use the airbrush based on feedback. Here's my most recent attempt. The holster is for a Glock 17.

I wasn't sure what to do with the gusset. Do you finish the top edge with a welt? I brought the gusset all the way up to the edge with the lid along the back plate, then cut it off straight leaving it short on the front panel. Should I cut the front panel down some? It looks like I'd only have to cut it down 3/4" or so. Thanks for the feedback.

My first ever attempt at a purse. Thought my wife would enjoy it for her upcoming birthday. The design Bob Klenda's from the the most recent Leather Crafters Journal. I forgot to stitch across the top of the back plate (where the straps attach) prior to stitching on the lid. I could not get my stitching machine into that area once the lid was on. I thought about just hand stitching it, but decided that might make the error more noticeable. I have no idea how to make compartments of put zippers in, so I just left the inside open. It took a lot longer to make than I figured it would, but I was pretty cautious so I wouldn't have to through out a bunch of leather. Any advise for the next one would be appreciated.

Other than the deer hide on the handle, is that all veg tanned? A friend asked me to make a collar for his working dog, put I was concerned about durability and strength with veg tanned. They operate in some extreme conditions. What weight leathers are you using? The collar looks substantial....I like it.

The saddlebag style purse Bob Klenda made in the last Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal looked like something my wife would enjoy for her upcoming birthday. I'd never even thought of making a purse, so I read everything I could on this forum and exchanged a few emails with Kevin at Springfield Leather. I have more hours into this thing than I'd like to admit and one of the mistakes is right on the front of the bag for everyone to see. Yep, I forgot to stitch across the top of the back plate (where the shoulder straps attach) prior to stitching the lid to the back plate. I could no longer get my Cobra Class 4 into the area to stitch it. I though of just hand stitching it, but thought that might be more noticeable than not stitching it at all. If the seam does not hold up, it'll be another lesson learned. I didn't sew any pockets or compartments into the purse. I wasn't sure how to go about that. Any feedback or suggestions would be great.

I use a line 24 snap for the thumb break. To hold my reinforcing piece on, I use black tubular rivets and caps from Ohio Travel Bag (model 252). On my holsters that are a piece of 6/7oz lined with a piece of 4/5 oz and have the 20 gauge reinforcing piece, I use the 4/16" rivet and matching cap.

I have John Bianchi's three disk DVD set - "The Art & Secrets of Advanced Western Holster Making" from 2006. For the finish dressing, he refers to the finish coat as "Tandy's leather coat finish dressing" and as "several coats of Tandy harness dressing leather finish". He uses sheep's wool to apply it and has whatever the product is in it is in an after market container that is not labelled. Whatever it is, he puts on several coats. I looked at Tandy's website, but am not sure which finish Bianchi is referring to. The video is only a couple years old, so I'd think Tandy still carries the stuff. Maybe Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax???

Shooter....What weight is the leather you are going through with that punch? Some of the pancake holsters I've made are two pieces of 8/9 oz leather, so 16-18 oz thick. Will the punch easily get through that? Are you using an arbor press, or are you using a mallet to force the punch through the leather? I've wanted to go to a punch for cutting belt slots, but I've been afraid to make the investment in the event it would not work. Currently I use a drill bit to bore the ends, then a head knife to cut out the slot between the drill holes.

I have a Cobra Class 4, but have not tried 138 thread. What size needle are you using and do you use the standard shuttle hook?

I've only been a member on this forum since February. I've read a ton of your posts. So you and all the other leather craftsmen who are willing to share your knowledge with the rest of us get the credit any of the work I've done. I read stuff on here almost daily and learn new things or different ways. So...thanks for all your prior and future informative posts.

My Christmas and birthday present for the next ten years was the Cobra Class 4 my wife picked up for me. My hands were getting pretty sore.

Mike....here's a photo of the back. The back plate has a curve in it so the magazine release is accessible and so you can easily grip the firearm. The first few holsters I made in this style were cut straight across the back plate, which made the firearm difficult to grip and covered the magazine release.

With this holster the Glock 17's muzzle protrudes beyond the end of the holster. The Glock 19 sits right at the bottom of the holster body. I haven't had anyone request that I extend the body down to cover the muzzle, but I have cut a few shorter for the Glock 26. I wear a 17 almost daily in this same model holster.

I've never airbrushed anything. I'm not sure what to think of the airbrush since I've never used one before. I short stroked it a couple times and I think I was holding it to far away from the leather sometimes. I'm really happy with the 155, I just need to work more on technique.

I picked up a Badger 155 Anthem airbrush. I did a few practice runs on scrap cardboard and then gave it a shot on a holster. Feedback would be appreciated...

Eric Adams (Adams Leather Works - aka Particle on this forum) has a great video on making templates. Check out all of his video's: http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/hows-it-made/. I watched them over and over again before I made my first holster. I take a lot of measurements when making a new template. Still, the very first holster I make off that template usually needs adjustments on the stitch lines. I make a second template with the adjustments and I'm usually fine. I probably have 2 - 4 hours (sometimes more depending on the template) into a template the first time I make a new one. I'd rather spend the time there than wasting time on holster I end up throwing away. Particle - if you pick up on this thread the new website looks great.

I was looking at the saddlebag style purse Bob Klenda had in the May/June edition of the Leathercrafters Journal. I've never made a purse before, but am going to give this one a shot. I've never worked with anything other than veg tanned natural strap leather, making holsters and belts. Bob talks about using "chap leather" for the lining and gusset. I order my leather from SLC and I think "chap leather" is a pretty generic term. Which of the leathers SLC carries should I order for the lining and gusset? I'm going to follow the directions Bob gave in the article, but any other advice would be appreciated.

I've built IWB's with and without the metal reinforcement piece, but now I build them all with the reinforcement. My customers are mostly LEO's and they are much happier with the metal reinforced holsters. I use 20 gauge now, but have used 22 gauge in the past. The 22 gauge had more flexibility to it. The 20 gauge is very rigid, but I am still able to bend and mold the holster by hand. I'm glad I switched to the 20 gauge. If the mouth of the holster were to become closed with a 20 gauge piece of stainless steel inside, you have bigger problems. The 20 gauge piece will not collapse under normal use. I think 20 gauge is pliable enough you'd probably be able to get the holster back into shape.

I use 20 gauge (.032) stainless steel. I make enough IWB holsters for guys I work with that I had a local metal shop - Pro Metal Works, www.pmwinc.biz, laser cut them for me. I used to just buy stock at a local hardware store, then cut it and grind the edges myself. For one holster, you might want to try that option.