bruce johnson

Most have a wooden piece between the shells. S,mall post section, something like that. The ends are carved down some to taper into the shells and awood screw ran through the horn into the wood connector for the back side to keep them on. .

I don't have any round knives but I have a heck of good Harrington head knife laid out for cleaning up tomorrow. If that might work for you, please contact me through the links in my signature. Thanks, - Bruce

It seems like Dixon dropped the older patterns to their tools and took ease of manufacturing shortcuts that sure weren't very good. Comparing the old Dixon plough gauges to the last ones made have you wonder what they were thinking. CS Osborne is not far behind with some tools. I get the same feeling handling a modern CS Osborne creaser, French edger, or bisonette edger as a quick example. Handles aside, the working ends are not even close to the old tried and true patterns.

FWIW regarding Leather Machine - I'd suspect that David and the other guy are both at the guild show in Indiana this weekend. Takes a few days to get there and I expect a few days to get back.

If you are serious about selling it for $200 shipped, then consider it sold to me. Please send me a PM about payment details

The Wickenburg show is sponsored by Sheridan Leather Outfitters and Hansen Silver. Last year it was in early February. Later in February was the Prescott show sponsored by Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal.

Once you get the tensions right, then you can really help out the stitch appearance with an overstitch wheel. The attached scan shows the bottom side of a stitched strap. The right side had a wheel ran over it and looks pretty darn close to top stitching.

I just did a google search for "evapo-rust Australia" and it gave me a list of stockists. This stuff is good as has been mentioned. Just a tip - you can warm it and speed the process along. Put the tools in an aluminum pan and warm to "cool enough you can stick your finger in, hot enough you can't leave it there". It will make a 12 hour cold soak happen in about 10 minutes. The solution can be reused a lot. I strain it back into the jug and use it until it is black as tar. Rinse the tools a couple times and wipe them down and let them dry.

I used one a few years ago when I had dislocated my thumb in the middle of "awards season". It saved my bacon then. They do OK. They don't cut as deep as a blade. They take a little learning. It is kind of like pulling a trailer - you have to slightly exaggerate the turn on the front end to keep the back end from cheating in. I was pretty happy to get out of the braces and splints and back to swivel knife when it was all said and done.

I have added a bunch of tools for sale to my website over the last couple days. I have a 2" Osborne English point and a 1-1/2" slot. Thanks, Bruce

It is not just a "price guide". He shows how examples of how he prices certain things, but don't get hung up on that. It illustrates the principles on how to arrive at your prices. He starts on overhead, accounting for trimming waste, markup on materials, accounting for time, and then putting it all together to get a price. It doesn't matter if you're making keyfobs or saddles, the same principles apply. He shows how to make worksheets that account for most everything and help you arrive at a price. If you want to make money - buy it.

I heard back from him - Bruce, Lower number is WW1 era, larger number is about 1930. Obviously 30451 and 30452 are sequential. The B at the end of the number indicates a multiple order, in this case 2 or more pairs of chaps. When a number of trophy saddles were ordered by a rodeo committee, for example, they were given one serial number and A,B, C etc. Chaps had the serial number on the inside of the belt, usually on both sides in the 30s and later. Earlier, WW1 era, the maker's stamps with serial numbers were on the outside front of the belts.

If you can get me the serial number on the back of the cantle I'll forward it to a guy who can probably pin it down a lot more.

I talked to another guy today and asked him about this stamp - first thing out of his mouth was "Ellis made it I think" so I am at least on a synchronous wavelength there.

It looks like a version of the pom pom stamp. They come in a right and left hand curves. I want to say that it is a Hackbarth stamp but not seeing it on their scans on the internet search.

Thank you very much for posting these pictures. It is a pleasure to look at these old saddles and the shop they were made in. I see a couple of my favorites (Chase splitters) in the first shop picture.

Tor, It did fit the CSO groover I tried it in. I have a couple spare versa-groover tips and will send you one. Let me know what else you may be looking for as I am out of the special Linie Aquavit Norwegian saddle soap. - Bruce

The Douglas Versa Groover tips will fit it. Ill check later to see if the Horseshoe Brand I have for sale will interchange tips with the Osborne.

Yes, splitting means it has been thinned down by passing it through the leather business equivalent of a planer. The top piece has been split and to further complicate things - dry or wet splitting cam make different appearances too. Some tanneries or suppliers will level a side it might have areas of full flesh and split flesh on the same side. Others can buff the flesh side to make an even nap. Then there is pasted flesh where a treatment is done to smooth and somewhat seal the flesh side. The bottom piece is full thickness and the flakey looking pieces hanging off are tags that were not removed during the fleshing process prior to tanning. The bottom piece could clean up and be a better piece of leather than the top one. Personally I have never had the skills to judge a piece of a leather by a picture other than obvious scars, brands, holes, butcher cuts, or forklift tracks. I have had boardy or stretchy sides that look good and some good leather that doesn't appear that way. I was way better off to understand the general characteristics of a particular tannery's leather, accept that not every side is going to be A#1, and then deal with a supplier who understand my needs and tolerances.

It looks to me like the top piece was split and the bottom piece is full thickness.

Normally they are stamped on the top of the shoe in front of where the blade sits, on the brass block the lever tightens against, and on the blade. Even with no markings, that sure looks like a Dixon to me.

I've got a few Francis & Ward tools - two hammers, a draw gauge, and a straight channeler off the top of my head. There isn't a lot of history on Francis&Ward. The books by Alexander Farnham are the most complete but not probably the final answer on some things. John Ward was a cutler in Newark in 1856, but Francis was not listed as a tradesman. I think one source has him listed as a financier of a couple toolmakers in different types of tools. The business wasn't listed after 1859, so that pins things down some. My Francis & Ward draw gauge was a local antique store find and started me on this slippery slope of tool hunting.

I would contact Pilgrim Shoe Machine.

Cody, I'll give you $45 for the Gore basket and you can buy the waffle straight out. Either that or I'll buy the waffle stamp and swap you. - Bruce

Thank you for checking. I'd suspect the frame is an Osborne and the blade was made by Atkins. Atkins is an old company that makes hand tools and known for their saws. Another general tool making company that made splitter blade was Disston. The general lore was the Disston blades were subcontracted during war time(s) to meet the demand for the military contracts Osborne had. It wouldn't be a stretch to think that a company like Atkins was in on that as well. Thanks, - Bruce