bruce johnson

I can't speak for some makers but the rule of thumb on the old makers edge bevelers and French edgers was each size number = 1/16 inch of cut. They were all pretty consistant between makers unlike now. It looks like that black handled edger is based on the western or bent toe edger pattern so it might run larger, but doesn't look 3/16 to me. If you are ordering from someone who can read a ruler, I'd ask them the width of the cutting edge. Across the board that tells me more than try to compare sizes with the newer patterns and sizing.

Here's another choice. I'd get a fair amount of the old flat handle paring/skiving blades in and they never stayed a day on my website. I sent Terry Knipshield one to duplicate in a right and left. He got these right and pretty handle scales to boot. I'd sure ask him about these. Terry is a really good guy. He patterned the Texas Rose after a 100 year old Rose knife pattern I sent him, and I told him that some people like a smaller knife too - hence the "Rosebud". He has also duplicated English and French pattern plough gauge blades for me too. They all have been dead on good users.

Commonly found - if I don't see one in half the antique shops I am not looking hard enough. They set tubular rivets and were used to rivet in brake bands on old cars and tractors too.

I had a set of Watt's round bottom edgers several years ago. At that time the only other one making the better quality edgers was Ron Edmonds (Ron's Tools). They were both a huge step up from the new Osbornes and others at the time. Now Barry King is making good edgers also. I have a bit of an iron in the fire hereby dealing in a lot of old Gomph tools. I will say that any of these current makers or the old Gomphs will be an improvement over what you may currently be using.

I think the LCSJ tried a show in Georgia several years ago, also one in Pennsylvania maybe. Other than the annual IFOLG shows that rotate around to different guilds who host them, pretty much the major shows are Sheridan, WY in May and the Southwest Show in Prescott AZ in February.

There are very few collectible stitching horses so I'd go ahead and refurbish it for use. Semi-collectible ones are the metal jaw "Doering patent" stitching horse with the metal jaws or the occasional wooden jaw Randall wooden jaw that the markings have survived. Other than that, most are shop made or unmarked commercial mades that are users only. The interior decorators haven't keyed in on stitching horses for interior décor yet, so they are still mostly selling for user prices.

You will like it...

Barry King. I bent and broke several Tandy and Hidecrafter ones from doing tipped impressions. I had Barry maker me a couple as customs a few years ago and now he catalogs them. Haven't had a problem with them. I do have a CLT that is beveled and really detailed, but I have the only one I have run across in 5 years. CLT is not in business anymore.

Brent, I will take them all. How would you like paid? You can call me also. toll free number on website through the link below my name. Thanks, - Bruce

Hide House in Napa, Maverick Leather in Petaluma, Goliger Leather in Santa Barbara.

I had one, heck of nice machine and in the same circumstances would buy it again.

Unless they have changed, the one I ordered was made by Barry King.

Ingrid, They are a leather shop item and common in shoe shops. They are a heavy cast iron carousel that holds nails, tacks, and shoe pegs.

Nice find. Usually the antique people are the ones painting them all colors and using them for candy and nut dishes,. My favorite is seeing them tagged as "cast iron muffin/cornbread pan with cooling stand - $175".

can you post a picture of them?

Stapler . and I have never seen one WITH staples. The old guys tell me they were used to staple bows and decorations on shoes, and other say that some styles of buttons were stapled on too.

I missed this thread earlier. I have made these from large round and layer single line creasers that have been worn on the creasing leg. I have done a few other things with old creasers too. I have a few out right now for feedback that have a beadline in the edge and a bevel to the inside of the bead.

They are indeed made personally and individually by Wayne Jueschke outside Elko, NV. He is a one man shop and a heck of a good guy. They are not stainless and I believe are made from "stress proof" steel but not 100% sure on that. His stamps are crisp and detailed - my favorite geometrics and flower centers. One of my friends did production work with Wayne's early stamps designs and you could pass them off as new condition stamps today.

Ray, I will buy that. PM sent.

Regarding the black surface. One of the restoration sites they mention this - and it may be in the fine print on the chelating solution directions too. This is carbon from the original steel that rusted. A fine abrasive or compound on a soft wheel will take that off.

Just another of the Metal Rescue and Evaporust tips. They will get into areas you cannot by any mechanical means. You will notice on the label that it says works better over 65 degrees. True enough, and the warmer the faster the chelation reaction. I talked to one of the celebrity endorsers of one of these products. His tip under condition of anonymity. You can heat these and turn 12 hours into less than 12 minutes. I do this for small parts like bolts and hardware. Put them in an aluminum pan, heat to "hot enough to stick a finger in but too hot to leave it there". Simmer for as long as it takes, a couple rinses of water, and you're good. You will lose some solution to evaporation but there is the time saving element. Strain the solution through a paper towel back into the container and you're ready for next time.

Hanson's silver has them.

This slaughter-free vegtan leather was only offered by Siegels. Steve Siegel downsized his business not long after, and now seems to be concentrating on higher end book binding leather. This doesn't mean country hides went away, they just aren't marketed as such.

Some contact cements are heat activated, Barge is the one most think of but others are too. They can dry and then you apply heat to tack the cement back up. I use a paint stripping gun. A few places that this is helpful. Cement won't stick very well to wet leather. You can apply cement to dry leather and let it set. Dip or soak the piece and when it is right, hit it with some heat and stick it. Good for ground seat build-ups in saddles. It also helps if you are batching up stuff. You can apply the cement to everything at a whack, then come back and heat-n-stick.

Here's a link to my web page that has the tutorials. Interestingly enough, rein rounders are at the top of the page - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/