CCPhotog

I have to carry an id badge for work, and the clips and snaps my job provided kept breaking. I ended up losing the badge, and when the new one came in, I used a scrap piece of veg tan to make a loop. No dye, conditioner, treatment, not even beveled edges. Well, several years later, I noticed that little scrap has taken on the most amazing rich brown color. It just looks great. It got me thinking, has anyone ever made products that use the regular veg tan, and let it age "naturally?"

I am fortunate enough to be in a town that has a makerspace; I have access to everything from a wood shop to full blown sci-fi stuff like a laser cutter and a cnc machine. The laser cutter has a small bed, 12"x24", but the CNC router has a 4'x8' bed. I brought a scrap of leather to the class I took today, and the laser cutter cut right through the leather, but it did scorch it. It also did engraving on the surface which looks great, but the lines are all black. I did not get a chance to try the CNC router. I'm curious, has anyone else used either of these tools in their leatherwork? I wonder if casing the leather would help with the scorching... Also, this place has a print shop. Everything from lithography to silk screening to old school metal type. I've seen some items on Etsy that have printing on leather. I imagine silk screening would be the best thing for it, but I'm concerned about durability. How long would it hold up? What type of printing process is best, and what types of inks work best? Would it be possible to put some sort of coating on the leather (the poly-sheen acrylic that tandy sells, perhaps?) to make it sturdier?

I think so, but I'm seeing a new issue now. When I use larger thread (#346) it seems to catch in the bobbin. It either is getting caught up in between the needle part of the bobbin and the back wall, or, the little opening in the back of the bobbin doesn't open enough to let the thread slip out. This doesn't happen on lighter thread. I've fiddled with the bobbin tension to no avail. I'm wondering if the whole bobbin and race assembly is seated properly? This also started happening recently. The screws that hold the silver bobbin cover on, how tight should those be?

The loop on the side is a good idea, Glendon. but, if you were going to do an internal divider, how would you do it?

I would like to make a pouch that can carry more than one tool. Similar to this excellent tutorial : http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31601 but with the ability to carry multiple items (a pocketknife and a firestarter) but I can't picture the way to handle it. Where would I put the dividers? I've tried laying it out with scraps and anything I get comes out either bulky, or I can't figure out how to assemble it. Particularly adding dividers in the middle of the pouch.

I would like to make a pouch that can carry more than one tool. Similar to this excellent tutorial : http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31601 but with the ability to carry multiple items (a pocketknife and a firestarter) but I can't picture the way to handle it. Where would I put the dividers? I've tried laying it out with scraps and anything I get comes out either bulky, or I can't figure out how to assemble it. Particularly adding dividers in the middle of the pouch.

I'm currently working on a messenger bag, that has a strap that goes diagonally across the body. I would like to add some sort of adjustable accessory mount to that strap; maybe the wearer could hook in a cellphone case, or another strap. Ideally I'd be able to slide the mount up and down to adjust it. I'd like to be able to lock it in place using a buckle, but I can't quite envision how to do that.

I haven't thought about using the roller guide freehand. Normally I just tighten it for straight things, and sew without a guide for things that aren't straight. I guess in theory I could loosen it? the pressor foot is this one : http://www.tolindsewmach.com/images/harness-feet.jpg

I could use a guide in some areas, but the bottom of the collar changes depth, so that won't work. And it's not even that the needle is skipping or the machine is shifting, it's just such a tight fit that even a small mistake ruins it. If anything, it's the machine that's working fine, and my poor sewing skills to blame. But I can't think of any other way to assemble this thing.

No, I'm saying the problem is I have trouble keeping the needle on the correct side of the rolled edge. In the final picture you can see where the needle punctured it. I don't know if there's another way to construct the collar without having to do that final line of stitching; that's the part I keep messing up on.

The machine is a CB3200; the collar is well under the 5/8th's it can sew. The presser foot is the factory one. I'm getting enough pressure, it just occasionally slips when it's near an edge. Electrathon : My goal is to not have stitching on the facing or front of the collar. I don't know if the method your describing would work for that.

I'm running into a design issue, and I'm wondering if anyone in here has advice. I'm making collars with rolled edges. Step 1 : Lay out the pattern on a piece of sturdy leather Step 2 : Glue that to a piece of garment leather Step 3 : Cut collar into shape Step 4: Lay a strip of garment leather, good side down, onto the garment leather side of the collar. Stitch. Step 5 : Apply adhesive to back of collar, and roll strips into place. And this is where I tun into problems. I take a piece of fabric that's already been cut and hemmed into shape. I put it on the back of the collar, and then try to run another line of stitching snugged right up against the edges. But it's way too easy to make a mistake... In this example, the foot of the machine was right on the edge of strap that runs down the middle, and it shifted just as the needle came down. Other times, the stitching doesn't "grab" the fabric on the back, and I have a loose spot.. However, I can't figure out a way to finish the edges without doing another round of stitching. I considered gluing the fabric to the back, and gluing the edges of the collar over it, but my concern there is that, in time, the glue will weaken. A stitch lasts a lot longer. Plus, when the fabric part does work out, it looks great; no exposed edges, everything is either seamed or hemmed or whatnot.

As the title says, I'm wondering what is the best glue or adhesive you guys have found. I'm mostly attaching leather to leather, but occasionally I want to add fabric.

Those would be size #23 needles with 138 thread. The leather is either veg tan, latigo, or hot stuffed harness leather. I occasionally use chrome tan garment leather or canvas, but that doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I do have larger needles and thread, but those break in the same way; the hook in the bobbin assembly seems to catch the needle and push it sideways. Also, the larger thread (#346) seems to get caught in the bobbin, even when I back off the tension a lot. So I've been using the smaller stuff. I have pulled apart the bobbin assembly, cleaned it, and checked the measurements as Wiz instructed and everything there seems to be okay. I only had a few minutes to test it this morning before I left for work but it seems to be sewing okay; I will post more if it happens again, and I'll keep trying any advice. I appreciate everyone's help.

My brand new CB3200 is still snapping needles left and right. I think the problem is the hooked piece inside the bobbin assembly is catching the needle; I'm not an expert but I think the timing of the machine is off. I've checked everything I can think of, from the threading to using new needles and making sure they're installed correctly. This is incredibly frustrating; sometimes I can sew for 5 minutes without a problem, other times it jams up several times in a minute. I've tried capturing this on video, but of course as soon as I set up a camera it starts working just fine. It seems to bang the needle sideways on the downstroke, and then catch it on the upstroke. Needles for this thing aren't cheap, plus when it breaks, it interferes with whatever project I'm working on.

A press knife (what's used in the machines) would probably work, even with just a hammer. Maybe put a board on the back? I've never used one but I've thought about it. The only US place I know that does custom press knives is these guys : http://www.caknife.com/press-knives-blades.aspx No idea on prices though.

I never thought of drawer pulls, that's a great idea. What about this one; specifically the lions with rings in their mouths.

This guy makes some amazing collars... Where does he get those great conchoes?

Shtoink : That's what I figured, but then wouldn't the stitches from the inside black layer show on the front? The only stitch marks I can see on the front are from where the pink was attached.

I have been looking at other leatherwork for inspiration, and I found this collar. I'm curious as to how both the black lining on the inside and the pink edging are attached. The first picture is of the front of the collar. It looks to me like a normal hem; the leathers were put facing each other, a stitch was run, and then the pink was folded back over. But then, how was the black lining piece in the back attached? If it was sewn, wouldn't it punch through to the front of the collar?

I'd like to invest in a strap cutter, but the only one I can find is the Tandy draw gauge. Which, strikes me as a an incredibly good way to cut my hand on the blade. Then I found this video : If you skip to the 1:45 mark, you can see the worker using a palm held device to cut strips. What is that tool, and where could I get one? I'd like to hear from more experienced posters on the preferred way to cut strips efficiently. Right now I'm using a ruler and it's not entirely consistent.

Most of my leather projects involve carving and tooling, so I find myself buying, almost exclusively, veg tan leather. However, I'm looking to expand my repertoire a little, and I'm thinking about other projects. There are lots of types of leather out there, and veg-tan isn't the solution for everything. So I'd like hear from other members how their purchases break down. And maybe even a little description of the projects you each one for?

I just pulled the trigger on a CB3200; will it work for bags like this?

Are there any tanneries in New England? I'm in Providence RI and so far I've done all my shopping at Tandy, for two reasons. One, they're the only game in town, and two, I can go and see and touch things before I buy them. However, if I could buy in bulk from someone, I would switch in a heartbeat.

I've been doing leatherwork as a hobby for a few years. I've come into a little extra money and I'm looking at buying a machine that can handle heavy duty sewing. I tend to make things like holsters, collars, bags, pouches, and armor. Most of my work is with veg tan in the 8-12 oz range. I don't think I have enough to buy anything new, so that means I'm looking in the used market. I've done some reading, and there are a ton of options out there. I'd like something that will work reliably without too much fiddling or repairs needed. I'm able to go up to maybe 1100 or 1200 with shipping if it's truly the best choice for me, but I'd like to stay under a grand. I'd like advice or general suggestions. If you're selling something that you think is within my budget, post here or PM me. I'm in Rhode Island and willing to drive a little ways to pick something up.