BHPshooter

Many thanks for the information. I appreciate your help!

Something I've learned is that sweat can be a big factor. Back before I was making my own, I bought a nice, custom-made IWB holster that I used nearly every day. After about 3 years, it was basically done-for. It looked and behaved a lot like an over-oiled baseball glove. My line of work has changed, so I don't spend as much time soaking holsters with sweat (I have also learned to rotate them so they can dry completely), and haven't ruined one since.

Thanks, I'll check them out, too! About how long does it take to receive your order, roughly? I'm just curious how far in advance I need to plan things.

It appears that Sheridan Leather -- who I have been getting my leather from for the last year or so -- is going to be closing their doors, which is a shame. They've provided me with excellent service, and they're close to me, so I usually had my order in 2 days. However, I'm considering just ordering directly from Hermann Oak. The 10-side minimum order is what has stopped me before, but considering that I'm on my 3rd side in the last month, I guess it's time to think bigger. Does anyone else order directly from them?

Yep, different slide profile, too. The Sigma slide was pretty blocky, but they gave the SD9 slide more shape, sort of like an M&P.

They are of similar size, but the shape is different enough that I doubt the old Sigma blue gun would work. To my knowledge, the only company making an SD9 mold is Multi-Mold, who I have mixed feelings about. On one hand, their molds are high quality, and they offer molds that no one else does. On the other hand, almost all of their molds are intended for Kydex holsters, so they fill in the trigger guards and ejection ports.

Bunkhouse Tools has a Hi Point mold that costs a good bit less than other molds. http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Holster-Molds_c2.htm?page=all They aren't shaped like anything else, not even remotely. In order to make a holster for one, you'd either have to get a mold, or use the actual gun. I don't mean to knock anyone, but I've got to go with Dwight on this one -- the holster would probably be worth almost as much as the gun. I've been asked twice if I could make a holster for a Hi Point, but neither person went through with the order, so I never got a mold for one. I'm pretty sure my prices were a big factor in that. Spending 85 to 100 dollars on a holster for a 1911 or Sig is no big deal, but that's more than half the cost of a $160 Hi Point.

Here are some pics that might help. The molds shown are (from top to bottom): Colt Commander blue gun Springfield 1911 blue gun 5" 1911 ASP red gun For what it's worth (in case it isn't evident from the pictures) the shape of the slide is virtually identical on all three molds.

USMC is right. They're drastically different -- like comparing an L-frame and a J-frame.

I believe I can shed some light here. The Springfield Micro is a 3" 1911 with an Officer's frame, generally in .45ACP. The EMP is a down-scaled 1911 model (7/8th scale) to suit shorter 9mm and .40S&W cartridges. Here is a picture directly from Springfield Armory comparing the 2 models. I believe both Ring's and Duncan's make EMP molds.

I had never heard of this website until now. Thanks for sharing that!

Does any one have a Sig P229R mold they'd lend me? I ordered one, but it's taking a lot longer than expected to get here, and I'm quickly running out of time.

That is gorgeous!

I don't have the Tandy snap setter, but mine is a similar punch-and-base setup. I don't recall where I got it, it was a few years back. There was a learning curve involved, but now that I know how to use it, I'm pleased. I do use t-nuts & screws to secure the stud (male side).

Is he new to CCW? Because newbies tend to believe that small-of-back carry will conceal best, when the truth is that SOB sucks for concealment. Heck, my old man still thinks that, and none of us can break him of that idea... You can see his gun printing from a block away. I have video proof. 99.99% of people will get better concealment from a decent strong-side pancake.

I get them directly from Scovill Fasteners as well, but if you don't want to buy them in quantities of 100, you can buy them in smaller quantities (one at a time, if you want) from Springfield Leather.

That's my view on the matter, as well.

I've made a couple of STI holsters for a friend, but I had the actual guns to work from. I never have been able to locate a STI 2011 mold.

For 1.5" belts, I have a Texas Custom Dies oblong punch that is 1-5/8" x 1/4", which has been fantastic. I haven't had any issues with the width of the slot only being 1/4" wide. The majority of the orders I get are for 1.5" belts, but I still have to use other methods when someone orders a holster for a 1.25" or 1.75" belt. I've considered trying Weaver's oblong punches for those sizes, since I've been pleased with their other tools... but I haven't made up my mind yet.

I've used them both. I honestly couldn't say that I have a preference between the two. The ones I'm using right now are zinc-plated steel. They're high quality and very strong (unlike some brands that I used early-on).

I get just about everything from McMaster-Carr, except for snaps.

Apologies, I misunderstood. I I'm not sure the Sig P225 will be close enough - The P-09 is a much bigger gun... I actually can't think of anything that would be close in terms of size and shape. Good luck with the project!

There is a bluegun for the CZ P-09 available. http://www.bluegunstore.com/CZP-09.aspx

I'll bet it was fun. Did you use an airbrush to get the "sunburst" effect? I'm just outside the SLC area.

I didn't even know that they changed the P-07. Looking at the picture, it doesn't appear to me that the slide has changed enough to cause any problems if you use the P-07 Duty mold. Personally, I'd like to handle one in person to make sure, but I'd bet you're good to go.