Thanks,Lizard. On some of my earlier holsters I did just that...stitch all the way around. And I agree. Without that little bit of stitching it looks "unfinished". But there is a reason why this time I didn't do it. I've been trying to come up with a way to get a more accurate stitch line on the first try, and I think I may be on to something. Normally I would make the pattern in the usual fashion, just like you would see in Eric's AWL videos, for instance. But every time I made a pattern I seemed to lose the crispness of form in the stitch line along the trigger guard. In particular, the area at the front corner of the guard where it transitions back to vertical. It always ended up with too much space left over.
Which got me to thinking " How can I make this mimic the gun lines better, and make the pattern a little easier than guesswork?".
So what I did this time was to trace the trigger guard area with a .5mm mechanical pencil lead extended out far enough for the pencil body to clear the gun. Just the pencil lead touched the gun. Very carefully trace around the lower area without breaking the lead. Then, I marked the upper slide line in the same way. Next I added the full gun width plus 2 leather thicknesses to the upper slide line, shifting over that distance. Pretty darn near perfect fit. Almost too good, as Mike points out on the unrounded corner at the trigger guard in that stitch line. I even fudged out a lot of the detail I had traced to get the current line. Like the rail mount area, which all showed up on the pattern.
It may not be revolutionary, but it worked for me. So I didn't stitch those areas at the mouth and toe, because I was anxious to see if my idea would work. Now, there is no need to adjust the curved stitch line which mimics the gun's line well. You just tweak the straight line on the other side for fit, except I need to round that one corner.
Jake