Rawhide

Ed I haven't tried that one. However, I think I would still prefer the regular spirit dyes and oil dyes, because I can choose the color of the edges. They don't always have to be brown or black. Just my .02 Marlon

Ed, I think I have used that. Are you talking about the one that looks like a shoe dye bottle with a little sponge applicator on top? I have used that one and it's not any thicker than spirit dye, plus I can't control it like I can a burnt wool dauber. Marlon

Welcome TJ. Glad you found us. Where is Parks, La? I am originally from Baton Rouge. Hope you learn a lot here. Marlon

Art, I used to use it, but I don't anymore. It seems to have a plastic-ish feel to it once it's dry, kind of like acrylics. It sits on the leather almost like acrylics with a little penetration. I like to use regular old spirit dye or oil dye. Then slick it up. I think a dyed edge is more professional than edge kote. Just my preference. Marlon

Thanks, I was wondering where to get that. I figured the dye reducer is pretty much 100 % iso, but never knew where to find it. Thanks again, Marlon

This is true, USMC black has a blue-ish sheen to it when it dries, but I wouldn't say it's not a very good dye. I think it has it's place in leather dying. I use it all the time. Marlon

Thanks for the compliments. I screwed up the legs and feet of the owl with the dye I had, but this wasn't for anyone in particular, I just wanted to see how it was going to look as an applique embossing. The big cat is blind embossed a bit for a little dimension. It will be a notepad cover. I didn't want to get too extreme with the embossing, because it's probably going to be a heavy use item. That binder cover is really nice. I'd love to see the finished piece. Me likes the Aussie Wax. I also like Tan Kote and Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Marlon

I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. I got it from Wal-Mart or CVS. It's a little lower grade than the dye reducer, so it's perfect for cleanup. Marlon

I found some Feibing's mink oil at a local tack shop, I used it and think it works particularly well. However, I don't find the smell offensive, rather a bit sweet. I'm not sure what smell folks are talking about. All I know is ANTS LOVE IT!!!. Marlon

I dye, buff off the residue, cut the sewing grooves, then sew. Otherwise, you'll dye the thread and it won't dye evenly. If you're using black thread, it probably doesn't matter, but I like the white thread. Marlon

Wow! Bob that's fantastic. I do think I see what you mean about the disconnects. I can see the top flower in my drawing seems to not connect to anything. Thanks for the help and modifications. I will get that book and see if it helps me. Thanks again for the comments, critiques, and help. It's very much appreciated, as I am always trying to improve and learn new things. Marlon

I got a question from Spider asking 'Where's your stuff?', so I decided to post a picture with a couple of things I'm working on. Enjoy.

I've posted several before, but here are some things I've been playing around with.

I think that's an outstanding job!! I don't know how you're going to find much in the way of critiques though! Did you hand sew or machine sew? The only difference I think I would have tried, would have been a magnetic closure. Marlon

Oil dyes penetrate more deeply and yes I believe more evenly. However, you should try them as suggested with the sheepswool scraps in a circular motion. This will give a slight burnishing effect as you're applying and effectively start to seal the fibers. Marlon

I just asked a similar question to Peter Main and here's his answer: Just get some Fiebings 'oil dye'...put on the gloves...pour some onto sheepsfleece....apply it as evenly as possible (no need to completely saturate the leather)...add also to the back. Allow to dry over night....buff with fleece...add a finish and all is done. Tiz best to slick edges and back after dying...a little oil will help slick the grain on the flesh side...use a glass slicker for this. Peter

I don't think Tandy quit selling it. Springfield may just not have it anymore or just not stocked. Plus Tandy still has it on their website. Marlon

I used to use it, but now I just use water. I get the same or better results. But to use it, just coat the edge or back of the project with it (I used it on dry leather). Then rub it with a slicker or piece of canvas and this should make the fibers lay down. Marlon

here's what I do. I use cresent illustration board #201 and I cover it with an even layer of rubber cement. I don't put any on the leather. then I stick the leather to the tacky rubber cement and smooth it down from the center. I use a rubber cement eraser to pick up the excess cement. Then I case my piece and stamp. When I'm done, I peel the illustration board off of the leather (not the leather off of the board) and the back is just as smooth as when I stuck it together. Marlon

I get mine from woodcraft. Woodcraft magnets

There are several styles of embossing. Not with a machine though. One method is to stamp the design first, then push the leather from the back to make it stand out and fill it with a mix of leather dust and rubber cement. Google Robb Barr for the extreme end of this type of embossing. The other method is called applique embossing and is much more involved, but yields great results. Google work by Peter Main. This is where you create the same cavity as the other embossing style, but you fill it with another solid piece of leather, cut out the whole thing and sew it to a backing (usually leather as well). Marlon

Technically, you can't. The stamping, especially if you used smooth faced tools instead of checkered or lined tools, will burnish the leather which seals the fibers and tends to not accept dye. you're hitting too hard and too deeply. If you want an extreme raised effect, you might try embossing. Marlon

I don't know on these pieces specifically, but if you do a search on "elephant pad from Peter Main". He said that those were selling for about $550. Not sure if that was the retail for the company he was making them for, or his price to the company. Marlon

I know! Doesn't it tick you off just the tinyest bit that you can't produce work like this?

Here's some filigree belts and a followup to the oil boot tops, (posted previously), by Peter Main. Enjoy, Marlon