Rawhide

If you don't make the template, scribe the light line in the center, & mark your hole locations. When you get ready to punch, place the edge of you tool on the mark. Don't try to center the tool over the mark because you won't be able to see it. If you use the same side of the cutting edge on the mark, then your holes will be perfectly spaced and centered. You can also mark your tool with a visible mark to line up the tool along your scribe line as a secondary verification of exact location. Marlon

I remember reading somewhere , maybe Peter Main's "Main technique.." book, that you should dampen a soft cloth and rub your work after your dye has dried. When the dye dries, some of the powdery dye separates from the alcohol or water and rises to the surface of the leather. Even with the top coat applied. So before I apply the top coat, I dampen a rag and rub. Then I take a dry rag and rub. If the dry one shows dye, I rub more with the damp one, if the dry rag doesn't show any dye, then I apply the top coat. This has worked for me so far. Marlon

Bruce, That's a great tip. I was going to flatten my haft just to keep it from rolling and hitting the floor, now it will be dual purpose. Does that help a lot in keeping your holes angled properly? I have a tough time trying to do this, and I prefer using the awl vs. the punches. Thanks, Marlon

Ken, Do you buy your roo hides locally or do you order them? Who from? Thanks, Marlon

To get the edge smooth you have to slick the edge, The edge does look dyed, but that's usually not what makes it shiny. It's usually a finish or topcoat that makes it shiny. Do a search on the forum for dying or slicking edges. there are a pleathora of methods to do it, you have to find one that works for you. What I do is round the edge with an edging tool from Ron's Tools (front and back). Then I wet the edge with water (just the edge), and then rub quickly with some cut up blue jean fabric that's impregnated with parrafin wax. Next I use a small edge dying roller from Chaylor Fenneli to dye the edge. Then I finish the entire project with a top coat. Usually Fiebings Tan-Kote. Marlon

Can you be a little more specific? Can you post pictures of the holster you would like the edge of? Marlon

The sharpness issue certainly has been a struggle for me and not just with awls. On x-actos or scalpels I'm getting the trick down, but I can't sharpen an awl worth anything...Do we have a thread on that? There is a thread somewhere that has a link to an awl sharpening article. Do a search for it, maybe Johanna knows where it is. Marlon

I think you have to buy them from him directly. And it's a first come first serve basis. He has a 3 to 6 month wait for most tools, but probably so well worth it, you won't mind the wait. I'm on the list now for a swivel knife, and can't wait.

Thanks for the picture Dave. Marlon

Dave, That's very nice. Could you post a picture of that book? I really like the look of that lace.

Steve, Can you post pictures of the buckling? It sounds like you have light weight leather, and are pulling stitches too tight. Marlon

Hilly, If you go to this page on the forum, there are some pages that illustrate some uses of the head knife. Head Knife

My local Tandy has not discontinued Fiebings dyes. They have discontinued the Tandy Pro dyes in lieu of the Eco-Flos. I don't know how much help this is, but just thought I'd chime in. Marlon

I can't explain it, but a maul will feel natural almost immediately. I have several types of mallets's mauls. I have two rawhide mallets 9 and 11 oz., a 1 lb poly mallet Al Stohlman mallet, a 1 lb Barry King poly maul, and a 2 lb Al Stohlman rawhide maul. I use the Barry King maul 90 percent of the time. I use the 2 lb maul for cutting strap ends, setting rivets, etc... Every now and then I use the others, but I prefer the Barry King maul, hands down. Hope this helps. Marlon

Thanks for the pictures Johanna, I don't know who made it, but it was very nice. Marlon

Thanks for posting the pictures Johanna and Clay. Does anyone have a picture of the stitching horse that was in the competition room? Thanks, Marlon

I don't have any videos, but I learned how (and still learning), using Al Stohlmans book Leathercraft Tools. He has a lot of pages dedicated just to the head knife, how to choose one, how to use it, and sharpen and maintain it. I highly recommend this book, even if you don't buy a head knife. There is so much valuable info in it, you'll wonder how you managed without it. Marlon.

Clay, If you do a google search on the webpage ( I just typed in "buckanear designs"), the results page will give you an option to translate the page right next to the main link to the page. Then you can read it. This doesn't work for everything, but a lot of times it works. Marlon

I would dye/finish my pieces before cutting the stitch channels and I'll tell you why. When you cut them first, dye them second, you get dye into the groove. It's hard to get the loose dye out of the grooves. so when stiching, the dye transfers to the thread. Just my 2 cents. Marlon

I agree with steveb. The head knife is absolutely the best tool for cutting out shapes. Steve mentioned head/round knife, these are actually two different knives. I think the head knife is more suitable. A head knife has a round cutting edge, but the "wings" are straight on the handle side of the blade. On a round knife, the blade is round as well, but the wings have a notch in them. The straight wing is much easier to control in curved cuts. Also, be aware of several things when buying a head or round knife. The osborne round knife is too big for me, the blade is about 5 1/2 inches. You want something in the 4 to 4 1/2 inch range. Another thing is that some knives don't come sharpened i.e. osborne. They assume you want to define the cutting angle yourself. Round knife and head knife pictures

That's a good question to ask. I don't know, but I just bought a Barry King Beader blade and it didn't fit my knife, so I had to...dare I say it....grind it down and sand it smooth enough to fit my knife. Good thing it only cost me 20 bucks. I hope I didn't screw up the temper on it. Marlon

Thanks for the invite John, I may come in Tues. On Sat. I teach the lacing class at Tandy across the street. (One Sat a month), but it happens to be that Saturday. Marlon

I use the regular stitching needles from Tandy. I just use an x-acto knife to "scrape" the ends thin and to a taper, wax the ends to a fine point and thread the needles up. Needles

The name of the company is Chaylor-Fenneli Austrailia. www.chaylor.com At the show, I think I paid 30 bucks for it, but regular is 35. Marlon

When I bought my sewing machine, the rep gave us a foot like that for free. I think he said they retail at about $40 bucks. It looks good. Now you can get right up to the finding when sewing a dee ring or buckle. Nice job. Marlon