Rawhide

Here's the link I mentioned. They are called Quilter's thimbles. Helps a ton. There are several styles to choose from, so you can reasearch that if you care to do so. Have a good one. http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CAT...p;source=search

Here's what I've found. Waxed thread willget darker when you pull it tight. this is of no consequence whent the thread is black or brown. But it makes white thread look dingy or dirty, even though it's brand new. I use linen unwaxed thread, wax it with a clean block of beeswax, and have no problems. Keep trying with the awl in hand and needles. I prefer the awl because of the smaller holes. You can't poke too many though, because they will close up on you, so it's best to punch a couple, stitch a couple, and so forth. I am still having a time trying to hold the awl and needles, but it prevents it from falling on the floor. Also for your blisters, I found some leather thimbles at Joann fabric to slip over my pinkys. They are white leather on one side and multicolor eleastic on the other. I'll see if i can find them on the website and post a link. Hope this helps. Marlon

maybe it is placebo effect. . I do know what I feel. I feel a difference if I strop it. However, stropping a hollow ground steel blade, the smooth feel lasts about twice as long as the smooth feel of the stropped ruby, but I still feel a difference. Sorry that goes against all the technical mumbo jumbo that you know. Say what you will, it works for me Marlon

Very nice. I would have ran my stitches all the way around the corners though. Hint: when dying products black, first dye them blue, brown, or green, then dye with black. (Blue, may be the preferred) Marlon

Yeah the white "jeweler's rouge" sold at Tandy is the Aluminum Oxide form and is used to strop swivel knives, or any blade edge you want to keep polished.

I'll be there...wait a minute, I'm already here. I hope to meet all of you. I'll probably attend Friday's show, maybe Saturday. Marlon

This is the one I've used since I started and I think it's fine for beginners.

Thanks for the responses folks. Just Wakin' Up I'd be glad to share. When I get home, I'll get it to you. Don, I've never tried Tankote. That gives me something to go buy. abn, I was hoping you would chime in. I like the look of the finishes you do on your projects. Teach me!!! Marlon

I posted this in the dyes & finishes and had no responses, so I'm posting here. What would you suggest as a topcoat finish for this photo album, neatlac, supersheen, satinsheen, etc... Thanks, Marlon

I've been to this museum several times and it impresses me everytime. There is always some detail that stands out that "wasn't there before". It's amazing to see that all of Al & Ann's books are actually carved in leather. Each lesson and page is shown in succession. Simply amazing. I recommend this museum as a must on any leather crafter out there, rookie to professional. Fortunately for me, I live in Ft. Worth, so I can visit often

MAN!! would I love these. If you find out. Let me know as well. Marlon

I am soliciting suggestions from all the experts out there for the top coat finish of this photo album. I have dyed the silohette black and then antique tan applied uniformly. What I need is should I use neat-lac, super sheen, satin sheen, etc... Thanks for your help. Marlon

David, The tool carrier was made from 6/7 oz calf (single shoulder I think). I have kind of out grown it with tools, so I made a workbench sized holder (no leather though, only wood). Thanks for the compliments on my work. Navigating this sight has shown me a bunch of areas I can improve in. This place is great. Marlon

DP, If you intend to buy the Pictorial Carving Finesse/Figure Carving Finesse tracing patterns pack. In this pack, there is a layout for a light table. I find it very handy. I made mine out of medium density fiberboard. It's smooth and I dont have to worry about splinters. Good luck. Marlon

I think it's official. I went into HC yesterday to pick up a couple of things. On my receipt the name was HideCo. I don't know if they will change to this but that's what's there. Also, they have increased stock very well, rearranged the store a bit, and also will be selling exotics very soon. Ron showed me some stingrays and some gator backs and bellies. Hope this info helps anyone. Marlon

Well, it does have a grain, but not like wood. Wood has a distictive pattern, a hide does not. (At least I don't think so). The smooth side of leather is called the grain or hair side, and the rough side is called the flesh side. Some others may chime in to add or correct me. Hope this helps.

Steve, I wouldn't worry about the bump in the line. You're going to have these as well as other nicks as you progress your work. However, you will have several opportunities to smooth these out and you'll never know that they existed. The first opportunity to fix it is with the beveler, you can round up or square off just about anything with this tool. Another opportunity is with the backgrounder. Once all of your tooling is done, this should be the last stamping tool you use and you can fix trouble spots as well. Lastly, you can use your modeling tool to smooth out the inconsistencies in the cut lines. As far as how I use my swivel knife, I never put my hand in an uncomfortable position. You can (and will) turn the work to cut in different directions, but if I stop my knife to turn the work, I take it off of the work, turn it, then start about 1/2 inch back from the end of the last cut (where I already cut), and pull until it begins cutting again. This should minimize your "bumps", but you will still have some. Cheers. Marlon

This book will tell you how to estimate the amount of lace required http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...number=61906-00. BUT I warn you to not use too much lace at one time. It is better to splice than to have enough lace for the whole project. The reason is that it will be very hard to keep the lace from twisting on you. the maximum amount of lace you should have should equal your wingspan or distance from one hand to the other with both arms stretched out as far as you can. Hope this helps. Marlon

I forget which book I read, but I'm pretty sure it was by Al Stohlman. When you adhere the lining on, do so with the project already bent into shape. This accounts for the extra material needed, and minimizes wrinkles. I don't know if it will totally eliminate them, but it's worth a shot. After the bonding is complete, you can trim the lining, stitch or lace. Good luck. Marlon

Now that's what I call livin'!! Thanks guys for the warm welcome. I've learned a bunch from this forum. Hopefully I can pass on what I've learned. Marlon

Thanks for the welcome Ken. I also want to thank you for that tutorial on making your own lace. I took that to heart, went right out and bought a lace stripper and a large piece of garment leather and began. It's a litte weird at first, but once you get it going, you get the "feel"of how much tension you need and soforth. Thanks for the tips. Marlon

What places have the best/most fair prices for tools (website or store front)? Depends on the tool What are the higher quality brands? C.S.Osborne, Danny Marlin, Robert Beard, Chuck Smith, Don King, Barry King... only to name a few. I'm sure others will chime in on this one. Should I go new or used? A lot of the time, vintage tools are of much better quality than the newer tools. But again, this depends on the tool. What are some of the better places to pick up used tools? Probably ebay, but you can find some at leather shows I'm sure and here on LWN. The "marketplace" thread just for that. If I look at used tools (ebay/other website or live), what should I look for to ensure I get a quality or at least usable tool? No chips, rust, symmetry of the tool, etc... What should I expect to have to do to restore a used tool to usable levels? Depends on the tool. What should I keep an eye out for when look at tools to make sure I don't pick up something that is going to break on me a month after purchase? Rust, loose parts, etc... Most stamping tools are one piece though Marlon :biggrin:

I'll be there, barring any work issues or what have you. I'd be interested in meeting everyone.

I know it's really too bad. I emailed Bob about a week ago and learned that his father passed. That's why he won't be attending. It's so hard coping with a loss. Not only do you have to deal with grief, but you have more paperwork and business to conduct than when they were alive.

Peter, I don't know anything about how the court paper work goes, but what I do know is the bankruptcy information I received came from a very famous Leathercarver, by way of a TLF manager. Plus I was in the store when the new owners were present and taking inventory. I didn't get to see who it was because they were partially hidden in the back of the store. I asked Ron, the store manager, and he said they were being bought by an investment group. He said they would still be there, just new owners. He didn't mention anything about being wholesale only. Marlon