Rawhide

here's a picture from the Al Stohlman book "Leathercraft tools" I highly recommend it. It's one of my best books.

Thanks Johanna. I will know next time Marlon

Hey, We just learned something from each other. Thanks and you're welcome at the same time.

Another little trick an old guy taught me was to pull some cord (thread) through jewelers rouge. then pull the "loaded" string through your edger as many times as needed to keep your edger sharp. Marlon

I thought of mentioning it, but I didn't want to sound like a salesman. I still forgot to take some pictures and post though. Marlon

I visited hidecrafters last evening and they had several videos by George Hurst, none were 5 bucks though. As for the goat lacing, I did see that up on the counter, but I bought a goat hide from one of the back tables for about $20 and I can make waaaaaay more lace than on the spool with the lace maker tool. (Thanks Beaverslayer) Marlon

I agree!

Here's how I sharpen mine. I use a tri hone with a synthetic stone (about 500 grit), a soft and hard ark stone, and a surgical black ark stone. (in that order). coat the stone with a thin layer of honing oil. I hold the knife with my right hand, placing all four fingers on the side of the blade, and wrap my thumb under it to hold it. I start in the center of the blade holding it at about a 20 degree angle. I then move the knife in a circular motion. the direction is dependent on which side of the blade you will be sharpening. If you are sharpening the left side first, begin your motion toward the left (clockwise against the edge). It seems like this would damage the edge, but it will not. continue this circular motion for a couple of minutes. then switch it to the right hand side of the blade. When going to the right hand side, change your direction to be a clockwise circular motion. Once a burr develops on the opposite side that you are sharpening, then you flip the blade over and repeat the above. I do this on all four stones and then strop my knife on a leather strop with white jeweler's rouge. (when stropping only pull away from the edge, don't go in the circular motion as on the stones). I know this may be hard to visualize, but I can post a picture later in the evening if this explination isn't sufficient. Marlon

I teach a lacing class at a local Tandy and I prefer... well both. I like different holes for different reasons. When I do a Mexican (round) braid lacing I prefer the round holes. You can't really see the hole once the lacing is complete. For a double loop (cordovan) lace, I prefer an angled slot. I punch each hole individually with a lacing nipper rather than the four prong punch. I use a 7 stitch per inch overstitch wheel and mark the locations for the slots and punch them one by one. when the lacing is complete, there are no "gaps" between the laces and it looks incredibly professional. I agree that it looks amateurish to have the gaps between the laces. My 2 cents. Marlon

They look like hole punches. I can't tell from the pictures. Could you take a picture of the "punching" part of it on it's end? Marlon

I forgot to mention that the class will be on Carving techniques and Coloring (Dyeing). Thanks for pointing that out Clay Marlon

Ladies and Gentlemen, Peter Main is conducting a two day workshop on January 26th and 27th, 2008, from 9am to 5pm at the Tandy Leather Store located at: 8117 Camp Bowie West, Fort Worth, TX 76116 Map (Store phone - local: 817-244-3432, Toll Free: 866-322-8965. Manager: Laura Gutowski, Email) CLASS COST: $225.00 pre-paid per person. (8 person minimum, 10 person maximum) Please contact Laura Gutowski at Tandy if you want more information, or would like to participate. I think there have been 3 sign-ups so far. Peter Main's flyer reads as follows: Peter Main Workshop requirements I will prepare the leather for our project, so all you need to bring are a few tools. CRAFTOOLS: S932, C455, P703, U858, H904, P368, V745, B202L, B202R, A104, B200, F941... you may substitute tools...or even borrow a couple. Swivel Knife...with fine angle blade...or your favourite blade Tracing stylus Scratch awl Mallet Modeling tool...I will bring some For coloring: A couple of number five brushes...can be sable or a good synthetic...ensure they come to a fine point....I will bring extra brushes A shallow-well palette I use a sketch pad as a working surface when coloring...may be a good idea to bring one along...perhaps around 14 x 11" or larger. Colors and solvent will be supplied. ...don't forget you notepad and pencil. You can visit Peter Main's website here: Peter Main's Website Marlon

I agree with Beeza. It can be done, but generally if it dries out and you re-case it, it will be harder to cut with your swivel knife. You may be able to use something like Lexol conditioner to soften it up a bit. I'm sure experts will chime in on this. Marlon

I don't like the adjustable creaser and I'll explain why. when you spread the fork on it, and begin to push along the leather, the tool tries to walk in both directions. It's kind of like pushing a grocery cart where both front wheels are going in different directions. With the dedicated ones, the tool is easier to use. Just my 2 cents. Marlon

If you don't make the template, scribe the light line in the center, & mark your hole locations. When you get ready to punch, place the edge of you tool on the mark. Don't try to center the tool over the mark because you won't be able to see it. If you use the same side of the cutting edge on the mark, then your holes will be perfectly spaced and centered. You can also mark your tool with a visible mark to line up the tool along your scribe line as a secondary verification of exact location. Marlon

I remember reading somewhere , maybe Peter Main's "Main technique.." book, that you should dampen a soft cloth and rub your work after your dye has dried. When the dye dries, some of the powdery dye separates from the alcohol or water and rises to the surface of the leather. Even with the top coat applied. So before I apply the top coat, I dampen a rag and rub. Then I take a dry rag and rub. If the dry one shows dye, I rub more with the damp one, if the dry rag doesn't show any dye, then I apply the top coat. This has worked for me so far. Marlon

Bruce, That's a great tip. I was going to flatten my haft just to keep it from rolling and hitting the floor, now it will be dual purpose. Does that help a lot in keeping your holes angled properly? I have a tough time trying to do this, and I prefer using the awl vs. the punches. Thanks, Marlon

Ken, Do you buy your roo hides locally or do you order them? Who from? Thanks, Marlon

To get the edge smooth you have to slick the edge, The edge does look dyed, but that's usually not what makes it shiny. It's usually a finish or topcoat that makes it shiny. Do a search on the forum for dying or slicking edges. there are a pleathora of methods to do it, you have to find one that works for you. What I do is round the edge with an edging tool from Ron's Tools (front and back). Then I wet the edge with water (just the edge), and then rub quickly with some cut up blue jean fabric that's impregnated with parrafin wax. Next I use a small edge dying roller from Chaylor Fenneli to dye the edge. Then I finish the entire project with a top coat. Usually Fiebings Tan-Kote. Marlon

Can you be a little more specific? Can you post pictures of the holster you would like the edge of? Marlon

The sharpness issue certainly has been a struggle for me and not just with awls. On x-actos or scalpels I'm getting the trick down, but I can't sharpen an awl worth anything...Do we have a thread on that? There is a thread somewhere that has a link to an awl sharpening article. Do a search for it, maybe Johanna knows where it is. Marlon

I think you have to buy them from him directly. And it's a first come first serve basis. He has a 3 to 6 month wait for most tools, but probably so well worth it, you won't mind the wait. I'm on the list now for a swivel knife, and can't wait.

Thanks for the picture Dave. Marlon

Dave, That's very nice. Could you post a picture of that book? I really like the look of that lace.

Steve, Can you post pictures of the buckling? It sounds like you have light weight leather, and are pulling stitches too tight. Marlon