gottaknow

Just so there's no confusion, this machine was not refurbished by any stretch of the imagination. The damage, corrosion was caused years before Venator got it. The fact it sewed a little while was a miracle. I don't have a dog in this fight so to speak. I don't sell machines and I never charge for something like this. This was done for educational purposes for the forum. Let the chips fall where they may. The condition of this machine was well documented and I have lots of pics I didn't post. In this day and age with the net, it's a double edged sword. We seem to have good sponsors here and there's plenty of feedback. The company that sold this machine dropped the ball. If I had looked at it to buy, I'd have offered $200, and been happy. It is what it is. Regards, Eric

Thanks for the tip TT. I'm pretty happy with my #SGDEH306 SnapOn driver, $14 one time investment since SnapOn replaces it when it gets worn. The slots on tension screws are really shallow and require next to no torque, so the hollow ground thing is a non issue. I'm not unlike most mechanics when it comes to our tools. Opinionated, and passionate about things that we use all day long to make a living. I actually only use about 4 different screw drivers to make about 80% of my adjustments and repairs. Just out of curiosity, where's a good web site for gunsmith tools? Regards, Eric

I just use a SnapOn 3/32" potentiometer screwdriver at an angle. It's overall length is about 4-5". The difference is, the blades on the typical jeweler screw drivers suck. The SnapOn one has a hardened blade which holds its edge over time. Regards, Eric

That's cool Mike. I and several others here try to be as helpful as we can. I came here because of the machine aspect, but now I can actually call myself a leather worker. Regards, Eric

Singer serial numbers don't refer to a particularly model. Gonna need a picture. There should also be a metal tag on the machine unless it was removed. Regards, Eric

When you put your bobbin in, it's up to you to make sure it's in the tension. Insert the bobbin so that it spins ccw when you pull the thread, guide it under the tab where the latch opener is, thread the needle and loosely hold the needle thread as you rotate the hand wheel towards you. The bobbin thread should pull up. Put your finger on top of the bobbin and pull. Your thread will slide right under the tension spring every time. Regards, Eric

My thought is that this 467 just fell through a crack. They are a big dealer, I have a few machines in the factory with their label on them. They aren't in use any more, but we've used them. One thing I do know, is that guys like me are getting rare. Most mechanics back when I started in 1980 are retired or simply gone. The guy that trained me is almost 80. I was 21 when I started. It takes 5 years in a factory environment where you have to babysit hundreds of machines and keep them running at high speed in a very stressful setting. I was a head mechanic at age 26 with 300 operators. So a guy working where this machine came from missed its condition, I get that. Most hobbyists machines wouldn't last a week in a factory unless I or someone like me was in charge. The trend today in factories is to simply replace the machines within 5 years after they've been deprecated. The new Jukis I purchase today won't be around in 30 years, they just aren't built well enough in China. That's not to say the ones built primarily for smaller operations won't last, but they are more disposable. Would I buy a new one for my personal use, absolutely. The difference is dealer support. The two machines I've rebuilt for folks on this forum should have been parted out. I just hate the stories of failure, no matter the reason. If you are a head mechanic in a factory you have to have a passion. Not just a job. I still get my butt kicked even after 35 years. Regards, Eric

I have so many gauge sets for my double needles. Yes, 1/4" is the most common for garments, When we were making the official internment flags for the VA, we did everything at 3/16". I also will use a 1/2" gauge to set 5/8" Velcro where we sew the long sides at the same time, and simply use a 5/8" bartack to close the ends. We'll use a 1" gauge to folder set a channel for drawcords on jackets. Most double needle lockstitches will take a 1 1/2" gauge to folder set waistbands, though we usually use a chainstitch for that (Singer 300W class). Needless to say, I have a huge section of parts storage just for my double needles. In garment construction, we try to folder set as many things as we can to save money. Just like the seam on upholstery, it just looks more professional with those perfectly parallel lines. Do you guys sell parts for the Singer 300W class? I'm always looking for sources. Imo, it's the best chainstitch ever made, being needle feed and some sub-classes having close coupled pullers. Regards, Eric

3/8" is pretty standard. Regards, Eric

If you're looking to achieve what's in the picture, get a double needle. I can instantly see the difference and so will a customer. We'll take a needle out of a double needle in the factory if we're short on single needles. When you do remove one, remove the left one. That hook rotates the opposite direction and you'll get a prettier stich from the right side. Regards, Eric

Duzy? Sure wish I could have done more for that Adler. I read through that entire thread, but couldn't see what I would have done differently. Regards, Eric Ps. Wiz, I love any song with trains.

Sheesh skylark, not sure how I missed this thread. That's a common problem on the 211's. I have about 40 of them. Glad you figured it out. Regards, Eric

Lol. It's one of those 32nds. 3 to be exact. 9/32 is the wrench size needed to adjust the lower looper on a Union Special 39500 overlock machine. I have too much stuff in my brain. Regards, Eric

Mike, if you moved your hook timing when you changed needles, then that's the problem. It's real easy to think you need to retard the hook timing to make it line up with the longer needle, when in reality you just need to raise the needle bar. If you put in the longer needle without moving the hook timing, your needle bar rise is still the same. To retime the hook, set the needle bar rise at 9/32" and bring the tip of the hook about 1/16" above the needle eye. Make sure the hook is close to the needle but not touching. The needle guard on the hook should be gently bent to prevent the needle from deflecting into the needle. Have fun! Regards, Eric

Actually, to go between the two needle classes, you simply have to adjust the needle bar height. Bring your hook to needle timing using the old needle and leave it there. Replace the old needle with the other class and simply loosen and change your needle bar height to bring it back to timing. No need to mess with the hook timing. That is assuming the hook timing was good with the old needle. I switch needle classes often on my old 211's and 153's all the time, as well as bartacks. Regards, Eric

It is indeed a chainstitch machine, and there are several sub-classes. There are about 3 different needle classes, depending on sub-class. According to my reference material for needles, they are all commonly used chainstitch needles. Setting a chainstitch machine to sew correctly is completely different than a lockstitch. I can give you the general principles of how the stitch is formed, and very general setting instructions. There are also terms used for chainstitch machines that will be unfamiliar to lockstitch users. The machine will have limited uses for general leather work, but would be nice for a display machine. Regards, Eric

I recycle all my metal goods via a guy who leaves a trailer outside for me. When it's full, he hauls it away and keeps the profit. It's a good arrangement for me since I don't have the time. He likes when there's a lot of motors. No doubt the copper. I parted out and recycled about 60 machines last year. I'll do about the same this year. I do still have a lot of machines running clutch motors. Mostly Singer and Amco's. I have a few Wico's which are actually pretty good clutch motors for an aftermarket. We have a lot of operations in the factory where clutch motors work just fine. We sew as fast as possible, so variable speed is a non issue. I control top end speed with different size pulleys. In our training school, we teach everyone to use a clutch motor. We've found that they actually get up to speed faster when they don't have a servo motor setting a speed they're comfortable at. Of course good operators keep a servo motor to the floor all day anyway. The new direct drive motors mounted to the top shaft of the new Juki single and double needle machines are amazing. Regards, Eric

Universal Sewing Supply sells the 235003 belt. It's not a stock belt, but it's only 7 days out. Regards, Eric

I don't have a 38T belt. Do you have a Singer part number by chance? Regards, Eric

Nice job Uwe! Most of the upholstery shops I moonlight for use a 3/8" gauge double needle machine to do their French seams. To speed things up I solder a center guide on the foot to follow the seam exact. I then build a guide for whatever seam tape they use that holds it under the seam and feed the tape off a roll from under the machine. This eliminates the need to guide the tape or use adhesive tape. If you don't do a lot of this type of seam, a single needle with a 3/16" guide foot works well. The seam tape is a must imo. Regards, Eric

All my experience just means I'm old. I'd love to have Wiz in the factory, much like my file cabinets full of machine manuals. I could pick his brain like the resource he is. Like me, his knowledge has come through practical life experience, and I'm sure like myself, plenty of missteps along the way. Industrial machines are not something you just figure out in a weekend on a forum. I try to present information as simply as I can, and hope I don't lead someone astray in the process. I applaud the efforts of everyone who contributes here. Regards, Eric

Merry Christmas my friends. Regards, Eric

All of my 112's have threaded needle bars. It's how you change the needle guage. Now if the needle holder has been in there for 50 years, you may have to work at it a bit. I use a piece of suede on the needle bar, then clamp a large vise grip over the leather. I then use an adjustable end wrench to unscrew the needle clamp from the bar. There are two different size bars. I believe the 140 sub-class uses the larger thread size. On the split bar adapters I've used in the past, no modification was required to the machine other than adjusting the needle bar height and retiming. They were actually made by Singer. I have both 112 140's and the newer 212 140's. I have seen some mechanics braze the needle clamps in place due to stripped threads in which case I just replace the bar and the needle clamp. You can also gain a little room for the needle clamp by using 135x7 needles instead of the longer 135x17's. Good luck. Regards, Eric

I may have one. I'll look tomorrow. Regards, Eric

Nicely done Uwe, I'm glad you added the snippet for the needle guard. Without that being set properly, it's the difference between cutting thread, breaking needles, skipping stitches, and ruining your new hook. It's probably the most overlooked adjustment in the timing process, along with the latch opener. When I freelance at upholstery shops, leather shops etc., I almost always have to adjust the guard. The manuals just don't stress the importance. Regards, Eric