gottaknow

I order most new machines with a Kessler brand table. Unlimited configurations and height adjustable with a crank handle. They are on lockable wheels. They are however around 1k each. Regards, Eric

We have operators that can use a kick press all day, but the fatigue factor can lead to improperly set rivets. My electric Stimpson rivet machine with auto feed is much faster than a kick press. The difference is the auto feed. The proper set pressure is very important for mass production. Btw, the worst injury I've seen was an operator losing the end of her finger on a Stimpson kick press. All my automatics are very well guarded. Regards, Eric

Stay away from anything made in China. You should also know that for a given style of rivet, the machine has to have the correct die set and feed rails. Depending on the machine and availability, this change over to the rivets you want to use can cost up to an additional 2k. Maintaining and adjusting them is not for the faint of heart. If it's an off brand, parts can be an issue. Scovill and Universal, Stimpson are mainstream brands that you can still get parts for. Other off brands can be a nightmare. I have 35 years of experience with these machines. Most companies, including ours, lease the machines. Works out cheaper in the long run. Regards, Eric

I would remove the belt, loosen the screws on the top cog and rotate it and tighten the other screw onto the flat spot. then try retiming the shafts. The cogs and their respective set screws are not inline with the teeth on the cog, so that's where it could be off. You can't do that with the bottom cog because of the timing mark. I've seen this condition on numerous machines in the Singer 211, 153, and 300W class chainstitches that use the same system for shaft timing. If it's not that big of a deal for you then disregard, but I wanted to throw it out there. Regards, Eric

I would check the set screws on both belt cogs to make sure one of the screws is tight against the flat spot on the shafts. If the screws aren't tight, your shaft timing will vary. Having the timing off a half tooth can also indicate a worn timing belt. If you want to eliminate that tight thread issue, the shaft timing has to be right on. Regards, Eric

The correct needle class is 135x17 for cloth points, 135x16 for leather. Two things to check for the other issues. The latch opener adjustment and your top and bottom shaft timing may be off just a touch. It will still sew, but if the top shaft is retarded, your take up lever would still be rising when it should actually be at the top of it's stroke. You check the shaft timing the same as a 211. There's a tab with an arrow stamped on it that should line up with the mark on the lower timing belt cog when your take up lever is at top dead center. Regards, Eric

I'd buy it for $300 max, just to have it, but $500-$600 could just get you a headache. I'd save my green until I hit $1000-$1400 and then go looking. Good luck. Regards, Eric

These are actually decent machines. That generation of Brothers, (70's) were well built. Like Wiz says, I'd stay away from leather, but there's a lot you can do with that machine. Great for denim, canvas, and garment leather. It has about the same capacities of a Singer 211W151. Value with a clutch motor is about $300. I'd buy it in a heartbeat. Regards, Eric

The first thing I noticed was that the needle was in backwards. (always in troubleshooting mode). Good find, and deal! Regards, Eric

135 is a bit much. You'd want to use a lighter bobbin thread, but I think you'll struggle with 135. I'd use 105 and then 90 in the bobbin. It'll work a lot better. The problem with doing French seams on upholstery is that even though the machine will sew it, the weight and length of most of the seams will cause your stitch length to vary. This is undesirable for upholstery. A walking foot eliminates the varying stitch length issue. Regards, Eric

The 112w116 is a needle feed 2 needle machine and has the ability to use a close coupled puller. This is puller oriented just to the rear of the presser foot and pulled the material through. Although the puller is valuable for sewing long straight seams, it's pretty useless for leather. You could use it for light upholstery work and produce a French seam, typically done with a 3/8" gauge set. It will sew lightweight garment leather easily. Needles are available for leather in the 135x6 class, 135x7 for fabric. I have an original Singer part book, listing all the parts for the machine as well as the optional puller unit. I use mine for doing full fell seams on nylon for making kites. We use the 212 newer version for making snap tabs, straps and usually with a folder. You can also use them as a single needle, but as for leather, it's limited without a walking foot. Regards, Eric

I drive those out with wooden dowels after soaking with TriFlow. Have fun! Regards, Eric

I've just worked in some really large factories, and early in my career I would lug around a tool bag all day from machine to machine. After a knee surgery and being on crutches, I selected the tools I always ended up using and stuck them in a back pocket so I could get around. Best thing I ever did and never went back to the tool bag. Regards, Eric

And that's the difference between a correct, precise hook setting, and an average one. If people say you just have to be close, try doing that same thing with the hook too far away from the needle and not having the needle guard adjusted correctly. The proof is in the pudding so to speak. Well done! Regards, Eric

After 35 years repairing machines, I have just a handful that I carry with me throughout my day. I would guess I do about 90% of all repairs and adjustment with just these. The new carry case I made over the last few days. It saves the back pocket and my backside. The tools include the following. 3 SnapOn screwdrivers, snips, 2 tweezers, 2 metal rulers, an offset screwdriver, and a 1/8" allen wrench, and a small 9/32" wrench. I used to carry more, but over the years, this selection takes care of most of the daily stuff. Of course in the shop I have enough other tools to start a store. Regards, Eric

Come to think of it, Singer made a 554B class coverstitch machine, but those are somewhat rare and single purpose. It's technically a chainstitch (no bobbin), and they were around in the 1960's mainly for sewing the inside of pocket bags on Levi's. I have the Union Special equivalent that we still use on jeans. Regards, Eric

As far as I know, there's no 554 class Juki. There's a 552,553,and 555. There is a 555-4, the 4 is a subclass of the 555's. These are high speed garment machines. Regards, Eric

I still have several 269's in service in the factory. They are a true workhorse for sure. There are numerous tricks to making them run smoothly, not listed in any book. I was fortunate to apprentice under two very seasoned mechanics. Parts are still available, though they are usually made in China. Glad you got it working! Regards, Eric

That's a sweet adjustment Uwe. There are so many situations where your loop may be smaller than ideal, or you come off a seam and your machine is tempted to throw a flag skip because your loop rose with the material. With a nice tight adjustment, a good sharp hook can still pick up a very small loop. That guard is the only protection you have to protect the tip of your expensive hook. I set all verticle hook machines just like your video. You can still advance or retard your timing as needed and your hook point will still be protected. That should be a very reliable setting. Nicely done! Regards, Eric

Great video Uwe. I just have two comments and I hope you'll take them in the context they're meant. Your hook is too far from your needle, and the needle guard isn't guarding the needle at all. When your hook is in it's sweet spot, you should be able to push the needle to the right towards your hook, hold it there and move the hook back and forth with the hook point never contacting the needle. You want the guard to brush the needle and keep it in the same spot on each rotation. This setting gives you ideal sewing no matter the conditions. Again, great video, keep it up! Regards, Eric

Excellent job there Uwe! Love the format. If you don't mind, I'd just like to add that even with that hook point just "kissing" the needle, you'll burr up the hook. I suggest bending out the needle guard a touch to push the needle away from your hook. If you move up a needle size, it will magnify the issue. As a general rule on verticle hook machines, I always set the hook to just touch the needle, then guard it away from the hook point. On heavy work, that needle will deflect towards the left and rear. Having it rub the needle guard on the hook will "pre-bend" your needle just a touch so it will reduce skipping and thread breakage by pushing it towards your hook. Nicely done. Regards, Eric

Very nice!

That would be cool Ferg. Anyone here is welcome if they are ever in the Greater Spokane WA area. Regards, Eric

Hey Colt! The clippers I bought are made by Wahl. There are heavy duty hair clippers and have not even gotten slightly warm during an 8 hour shift. The operator cleans them with compressed air and lubes them with Wahl oil once per hour. We have done at least 700 trims without issue. These clippers are pretty amazing. All metal, made in the USA with replaceable blades. I had 3 days to get this thing into operation before it started holding up production. I think if I take the time to redesign it for next season, I'll look into the other shears, I simply didn't have time. I trust all is well with you. Regards, Eric

They had tried our Fortuna skivers and some other equipment. The sheepskin hide is pretty soft and very thin, I'd say 2-3 oz. Everything they tried wanted to grab and jam. The heavy duty Wahl clipper do a really clean job, as long as you can hold it firm. I do think I can adapt an old Fortuna belt dyeing station, but with the trim time down to a minute, it may not be worth my time. The engineers that work for us tend to way overthink things. I tend to take a problem, break it down into smaller pieces and solve each issue individually. Once I figured out how to clamp it, the rest was easy. Regards, Eric