silverwingit

+1 on the Weaver Master Tools. Well worth the investment, IMO.

If you can afford two, I'd get both a 3.8" and a 1/2". They are useful in different ways. The smaller diameter is better for rapid changes in direction where the larger one is superior, IMO, for more steady control in areas that don't require rapid changes in direction. I'd also get three blades to start: a 1/2" straight, a 3/8" straight, and a 1/4" angled. Again, they each shine in their own ways, for similar reasons as the different diameter knives. I'd further take Bob Park's advice and try to do as much work with the larger blades as possible. Starting out relying on that 1/4" angled blade leads to bad habits. Learning good control over larger blades yields good habits. Further advice: Invest in some good sharpening equipment. Your going to need it. Get a Keen sharpening guide and several diamond sharpening stones, and learn how to strop your swivel knife blades. Study this video series on the subject: http://youtu.be/2vk1RZp_7sM Hope that helps! Michelle

Most versatile would probably be a 3/4" oblong punch. It has many uses beyond your immediate needs. You can always create a wider or longer slot by making two or more "over-punches," though it takes some practices to make it look like only one punch made it. Better slots would be easier to make, though, with a punch the size of the desired hole. What size is that? I find that 1 1/4" fits most buckles well.

Looks to me like both halves were completely finished, stitched together, and then the bottom was stitched on. The halves, including the reinforcements on their bottoms wrap around underneath enough to provide attachment of the bottom section. I see no need to turn the bag inside-out at any point. Let us know how you do. Thanks, Michelle

Here's another couple of ideas that you can make with materials you already have. Use a French skiver to create a depression into which the bottom of the snap can fit. Just put one of the tool's "thumbs" (for want of a better term) into the hole you've punched and rotate the tool (or the leather) as you apply downward pressure, creating a snap-sized cater in the leather. Often, depending on the thickness of the leather and the "flatness" of the object being inserted, insetting the bottom half of the snap in this way will provide sufficient protection. If you want to put something between the snap and the magazine (or whatever), you can use thin leather. Either skive a thin piece of veg-tan or use the thinnest lining or garment leather you have. There are two ways to do this. One, simply cement a circle of leather that fits the crater you've created with your French skiver into place on top of the snap. The other method is not quite so thin but likely more secure. Make a figure 8-shaped piece of thin leather (1-2 oz if possible), where one half of the 8 is the diameter of the crater and the other is the size of the actual snap. Punch a hole in the smaller of the circles and set the snap through the hole. You can then fold the rest of the flap over and cement it in place over the crater. If you ensure that the fold in the flap is on the top end of the hole (with respect to the open end of the pouch), the magazine won't dislodge the flap when it's inserted. Thanks, Michelle

To say that tanning your own hides is a very ambitious project would be a gross understatement! If you insist on proceeding, methinks that the only practical way to tan your own hides on a small, garage scale would be the traditional Native American technique of brain tanning. I suggest you start with Youtube. Here is a video series on brain tanning by Dave Canterbury (Pathfinder School and "Dual Survival" TV series). Good luck and please tell us what you decide. Michelle

Andrew, that is a terrific bag! Can you tell us what weight bridle leather that is? Is it all the same weight? Did you have W&C skive it for you? Thanks, Michelle

Param, it looks like that strop is charged with black buffing compound. Unfortunately, that may not be the best compound for leather knifes. You may want to read this post about the different buffing compounds: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33539&hl=%2Bbuffing+%2Bcompounds Good luck and keep with it! Michelle

Param, please see your strop thread for my comments.

I have a bit of a different take on round knives and leather knives in general. Yes, one can buy a $250 round knife that is already razor sharp, one that only stropping will get you by for some period of time. But what happens then? You'd better know how to sharpen it! That's why, for entry into the leatherworker realm, I recommend getting an affordable round knife (e.g., C.S. Osborne) and to then spend the rest of your $250 on some sharpening tools and whatever time you need to learn how to use them effectively. You could go one of several ways with this; either a set of diamond sharpening stones or possibly a motorized "paper wheel" sharpening setup (http://www.grizzly.com/products/G5937), and then a good strop or two. I ended up with all of the above. There are also high-end sharpening systems that can cost hundreds of dollars. You will accumulate several different knives on your journey and knowing how to achieve and maintain razor-sharp edges on them will serve you well. Your work will be cleaner and your shop safer. At least that's the way I see it. Michelle http://youtu.be/9i4AIo-O9So

Speaking of strops, that would be my next "tool" if I were you. You'll find that one will be useful even with your utility knife blades. I've found that there is a big difference between a brand new utility blade before and after stropping. You'll also make your blades last much longer, even though they are sold as "disposable." You'll find a strop making tutorial in the "How Do I Do That" section. And, good luck on your leatherwork journey! Michelle

FYI, the Barry King "Recommended Size List" tools can be bought as a set at a special price. I purchased my "Small to Medium" set consisting of 18 terrific tools for $400. Great way to get started with some high-quality tools. Also, beware of the King Tools booth at leather shows. I was like a kid in a candy store and dropped another $800 on Barry tools last show I attended. Michelle

Robert, you didn't mention what kind of dye you are using. You shouldn't have to rely on a sealer to avoid dye coming off the leather. Eventually that sealer will wear. Then what? I suggest that the right dye would leave you with far fewer problems. Dye is one product you cannot scrimp on. I suggest that you try Fiebing's Professional Oil dye. It's not cheap but it gets the job done right. Then do what Dwight suggested. Problem solved! Michelle

Weaver Leather carries a wide variety of chrome-tanned garment and upholstery leathers. I especially like the fact that they stock these leathers in quantity and you get the same product across different orders over time. In contrast, I have found that Springfield Leather is more of a hit and miss proposition, but you can get the right product at a decent price if you only need one side. Good luck and please tell us what you decide. Michelle

JimBob, very nice work! I dig those rolled edges. I can't figure out how you make them. Can you share a few details, such as how you make the two leathers come together so seamlessly and how you finish the edge on the inside? Thanks, Michelle

Amazing that no one replied to this simple request. I'll give it a shot. The choice of barrel diameter has to do primarily with two factors. One you've mentioned, personal preference due to hand size, etc. The other has to do with how well the knife tracks rapid changes in direction. The 3/8" knife will "turn" quicker, allowing you to follow changes in direction with greater ease and less "twisting" motion than the 1/2". Conversely, the 1/2" blade will allow you to track a straight line with a bit more ease and confidence. Long and short of it, you probably want both. I like Barry King's swivel knives not only for their quality and precision, but their modest price as well. Michelle

I hesitated commenting here because I don't like raining on anyone's parade. But... Glue? Nah. No glue will replace the missing worn leather and I don't care how "super" any glue is, it won't wear like leather. Take a look at this series of videos featuring a self-described leather "refurbisher," then judge for yourself. And Good Luck, Michelle

A few suggestions - - Try scanning the original pattern. Then you can print it as is directly onto tracing paper or if you are handy with photo processing you can remove all but the cut lines and then print that out. Once scanned and processed, the pattern can be printed out any number of times. Just remember to leave the ink side up as the computer ink will transfer to your cased leather (I assume you are casing correctly). - You should fix the tracing paper to the cased leather. Try blue painter's masking tape or tack the pattern down at points that will later be covered by stitching. Any tape will likely leave marks on cased leather so either wrap the pattern around and tape it to the flesh side or tape it in areas that will later be discarded or invisible when the project is complete. - A pencil can be pretty hard on tracing paper, especially when it is moist. Try either a ball or roller ball ben or a leather tracing stylus (I like Barry King's). Good luck, Michelle

Well, Trevor, even if OP doesn't want to know how you make those edges -- rolled, rounded, or whatever you want to call them -- I do. Thanks, Michelle

You'll get much further with a less expensive knife and some sharpening equipment and skills than you would with the most expensive knife in the world with no way to sharpen or strop it. $100 is still bare bones budget but it will get you started. If I were in your shoes, here's what I'd do. 1) CS Osborne Head knife. $49.00 http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Head-Knife_p_812.html 2) DMT 8" Fine sharpening stone $48.61 http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1LK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2 3) Green honing compound. $9.99 http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Green-Honing-Compound-P26C11.aspx 4) Study this sticky post by list member Art on making a strop and make one for yourself. The bigger the better when it comes to sharpening a head knife. (And you don't have to use horsehide. I actually like mine made with veg-tan belly leather better. It takes the sharpening compound better in my hands.) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36221 5) Study this video by forum member Paul Zalesak on how to sharpen a head knife. Now, mind you, this is a starting point for sharpening equipment (and even then you'll have to save some lunch money for the shipping). The fine stone will get you most of the way. Ideally you would follow that with sharpening on a DMT extra fine stone before you start stropping. But you can get most of the way there with the fine stone and then make up for not having the extra fine with some extra elbow grease in the stropping phase. Once you get the knife sharp you shouldn't have to re-sharpen it for some time, given proper care and regular stropping each time you pick up the blade. You'll just have to trust me about he adequate quality of the Osborne blade. It's forged and well tempered. I like mine a lot. The diamond stone will only improve with age. Don't try to cheap out with a smaller stone or a natural Arkansas stone. You'll be frustrated and unhappy if you do. Good luck and let us know what you decide and how you fair. Michelle You'll get much further with a less expensive knife and some sharpening equipment and skills than you would with the most expensive knife in the world with no way to sharpen or strop it. $100 is still bare bones budget but it will get you started. If I were in your shoes, here's what I'd do. 1) CS Osborne Head knife. $49.00 http://www.zackwhite.com/Osborne-Head-Knife_p_812.html 2) DMT 8" Fine sharpening stone $48.61 http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1LK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_2 3) Green honing compound. $9.99 http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Green-Honing-Compound-P26C11.aspx 4) Study this sticky post by list member Art on making a strop and make one for yourself. The bigger the better when it comes to sharpening a head knife. (And you don't have to use horsehide. I actually like mine made with veg-tan belly leather better. It takes the sharpening compound better in my hands.) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36221 5) Study this video by forum member Paul Zalesak on how to sharpen a head knife. Now, mind you, this is a starting point for sharpening equipment (and even then you'll have to save some lunch money for the shipping). The fine stone will get you most of the way. Ideally you would follow that with sharpening on a DMT extra fine stone before you start stropping. But you can get most of the way there with the fine stone and then make up for not having the extra fine with some extra elbow grease in the stropping phase. Once you get the knife sharp you shouldn't have to re-sharpen it for some time, given proper care and regular stropping each time you pick up the blade. You'll just have to trust me about he adequate quality of the Osborne blade. It's forged and well tempered. I like mine a lot. The diamond stone will only improve with age. Don't try to cheap out with a smaller stone or a natural Arkansas stone. You'll be frustrated and unhappy if you do. Good luck and let us know what you decide and how you fair. Michelle

Sheesh, Tom, I just realized I have one of those somewhere. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

I'm with Ski. You have to match the thread to the width of the pricking iron slits. I'll also underscore the point about only marking the holes with the iron. If you drive the iron all the way through the leather, especially thick leather, you'll end up with gargantuan holes compared to following the pricking iron slit marks with a good sharp awl. You need to get your pricking iron technique down and then ensure that your thread is the proper size for that iron. Good luck, Michelle

You can spend a lot of money on a head knife, but I don't think it's necessary. I'd start with an affordable knife and spend the rest on sharpening tools, strops and materials and learn how to use them-- you gonna need 'em. CS Osborne knives are just fine especially for a first knife. Here's the one I'd start with: http://springfieldleather.com/24746/Knife%2CHead%2C%2371/ They also make a slightly larger one (5" vs 4 1/2"): http://www.csosborne.com/no70.htm Osborne calls the larger #70 a round knife and the smaller #71 that I recommend starting with a head knife. I never have figured out what the difference in terminology means but I like the smaller one because I think it has slightly sharper points that make it my preferred knife for detailed cuts and inside corners, etc. It can also do anything the larger knife can do which is why I recommend it. Good luck and tell us what you decide and what you think of your new knife. Michelle

IMHO, Kevin has it right. Unless you are cutting the exact same radii all the time (and how boring would that be?), use what a mathematician would call a piecewise linear approach like Kevin describes. It works with all curves, not just circular ones, and not just ones that cut a 90 degree corner. Scribe your curve (a 90 degree circular arc in this instance) however you do it. Then start where the curve first breaks from the adjacent straight line and angle your knife (any good, sharp knife, not just a round knife, though that works best for me, too) to make a very fine cut at a very oblique (slight) angle from the straight line, shaving off just a sliver of leather. Then repeat, advancing the cut's position to be just slightly ahead of the previous one and at just a slightly less oblique angle so as to shave off a similar sliver as the last cut delivered. As you repeat this process a smooth curve will gradually appear just along the curve you've scribed, ideally removing the scribe mark itself. With experience you realize that you needn't completely remove each sliver and can use the rocking motion that Kevin described. It's easy and takes only a moment or two and again, it works with ~all~ outside curves. Inside curves are another story. Michelle

Lemme understand this... You're going to give that museum-quality piece to a kid to take to school? It should be behind glass! Michelle