silverwingit

Personally, I'd be wary of buying used tools off ebay if I was just starting out (or even now, for that matter). You never know how they were used or cared for. Instead, I would start right off with Barry King tools. You can't go wrong with BK tools. They are all stellar IMO and in the long run priced effectively (especially if you skip the usual step of buying a bunch of junk new Tandy tools or gambling on ebay. You won't have to buy "twice" that way. Thanks, Michelle

FWIW, I realize that this thread was started a while back, but I thought this would be a logical place to mention this really good deal on a Heritage splitter on ebay. $269 OBO. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heritage-Leather-Skiver-Splitter-tool-FANTASTIC-PRICE-/271434443235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f32c0e9e3 Thanks, Michelle

I'd ask the client to borrow his hand gun, explaining that, for an exact fit you need his gun to design and test his holster before shipping it. As to the laser, it's much the same as the front sights. You need to make a cylindrical model that encompasses the laser's largest dimensions so that the laser will slide in and out of the holster. I hope that makes sense. For the front sights I make a cylinder that will fit over the front sight out of a straw or the shell from a cheap ball point pen. That cylinder fits the length of the firearm so that when molded the front sight will have a channel the length of the holster in which to slide in and out. Good luck and keep at it. Michelle

You best option is a commercial wood chisel sharpening jig like this Veritas Mk II Honing Guide: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005515/16822/Veritas-MK-II-Honing-Guide.aspx Barring a fine tool like that, you can make your own sharpening jig. Far all manner of suggestions for doing that, Google "chisel sharpening jig." Good luck, Michelle

With 1/8" lace, you would have a small fraction of an inch between the carving and on the other side, the belt edge. I wouldn't feel comfortable with that narrow of a margin on the carving side or that narrow of a boundary on the belt edge side. But that's me. Michelle

Verdict: someone got to that awl blade before you did or... it's a lemon. It should have that diamond shape symmetrically on both sides. Michelle

Me like too! Love that Chink/Chap look. Is that black suede? Thanks, Michelle

Nelson, You might try smoothing the sewing machine foot marks with a modeling spoon, a bone folder or a smooth-faced cobbler's hammer. They all work for me. Thanks, Michelle

I've thought much about this very problem. You're quite correct that tooling and then wet forming is vary hard to fatal on the tooled design. In the instance of a project that will largely lay flat once finished, you might try creating a tooled panel that could be applied to the flat area after wet-forming. In the case of, say, an Avenger-style holster, I'd tool only the reinforcement piece, and Bobby has it right. If it's to be a fully-tooled holster, I'd minimize any wetness to hit that tooled surface wherever possible. Good Luck and let us know how you do. Michelle

Lovely work, Narvi. My only remark would be that, in my opinion, you would do yourself and your projects a favor if you would move beyond drilling your stitch holes. On a piece this small and with such fine leather, large, round holes like that detract from otherwise pristine work. However you mark your stitches, methinks that using only an awl to make the holes will create a much more refined look. Thanks for posting! Michelle

Roleram, it's fun to see someone become enchanted with leatherwork (yes, NM reference ). You've clearly been bitten by the bug and the progress you've made already is evident. If I had a suggestion it would be this. It appears that it's time to stop for a moment or two, take a deep breath and decide where you'd like to take your work. If you want to keep it at a hobbyist level you are already doing just fine; read no further. If you'd like to elevate your work to a more professional level, and I am being gently blunt here, you have some studying and some work to do. If the latter is the case I might suggest some reference material that will help you on your journey: 1) Al Stohlman's "Leathercraft Tools." 2) Al Stohlman's "Art of Handsewing Leather." 3) Al Stohlman's "Making Leather Cases, Vol. 1." 4) Al Stohlman's "Belts Galore." 5) "How to Lace." 6) Our own "Purses, Wallets, Belts..." and our "Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes" forums contain a wealth of knowledge from amateurs and pros alike that will be right up your alley. These books will teach you: the proper way to select, use and sharpen tools; The techniques to use in stitching leather, making belts and lacing your projects. The forums will show you how your contemporaries make their own commercial-quality goods. Armed with this information, a moderate budget and a bit of practice you will soon be making world-class leashes and collars. Good Luck and Best Wishes whichever way you go, and I'll look forward to future updates! Michelle

Verry nice! Love the color combination and the wet forming. I imagine it affords great retention and it makes for a nice, compact look. I wonder what if any treatment you gave for the marks left by the foot of the sewing machine? Thanks, Michelle

Just a quick note regarding awl handles. I own Barry King handles and several others, including all of Osborne's. Barry's are a work of art, beautiful to look at, hold and use. But don't discount Osborne awls out of hand (heh, heh). Osborne awls have a very small shank compared with any I have seen. This is very important to me because I do a lot of stitching right up next to raised portions of leather that I have wet-formed for my harmonica pouches. With many awls, the diameter of the shank, and/or its smoothness/roughness preclude this kind of close-up stitch work. My favorite awl is this one: http://springfieldleather.com/24630/Awl%2CHaft%2CPalm/, the CS Osborne "Palm Awl Handle." You can see from the picture what I mean about its small, tapered shank. I have mine polished to a mirror surface so it glides against those pesky raise portions rather that deforming and/or scratching them. And, that awl does just as it says -- it fits very comfortably in the palm of my hand. As a result, I get to admire the beauty of my Barry King awl handle a lot, as it sits in my tool rack while my Osborne Palm Awl Handle resides hidden in my hand. Works great for me. Michelle

I hand stitch thin chrome-tanned leather all the time. Tex has it right. You just can't pull too tight, just snug will do. And, like anything else in stitching leather, keeping the same tension on each stitch counts big time. Good Luck, Michelle

Nice first bag fer sure. In fact, it's so nice that I wouldn't want to get it wet... Michelle

Give Barry a call. He's a good guy and is happy to answer any and all questions about his tools. 307.672.5657 Or, just buy a whole set. You'll thank Barry (and me). I like his grooved edgers. Michelle

Back to the original topic, I have always disliked the 8082 gouge. It is difficult to impossible for me to sharpen and it is also difficult for me to control in use. I also prefer the 31811 gouge as it eliminated both of the above problems I've encountered with the 8082. But, don't over look the similarly handled Adjustable U gouge. It is similar in every way to the handled V gouge except the blade is in a "U" shape. The V gouge is used for making 90 degree bends where the U gouge is used for making 180 degree bends as in a belt loop for sheaths, etc. Thanks, Michelle

I have had good results using a microfiber cloth that has a thin foam rubber backing. I make harmonica cases. I had a request to make a case for a chromatic model (the large ones with the button). The customer didn't want a rectangular box with a lid that slipped over the outside. He wanted a case made like a fine jewelry box where the lid is flush because it's actually a box within a box. http://silverwingleather.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/CCarryChromeCase-3.jpg I first used a fine pigskin lining leather to cover the inner case but the leather imparted an unwanted odor on my customer's expensive instrument (I guess he doesn't like his harmonica to smell like pigskin...). He suggested using a faux leather instead. I ended up finding a very nice faux leather microfiber cloth that has a thin foam rubber backing at my local JoAnne's Fabric store. The padded microfiber cloth was a very nice solution. It is very smooth allowing the instrument to be inserted/extracted easily even though the padding gives the case slightly smaller inner dimensions when the foam is uncompressed. When inserted, the foam padding holds the harmonica very snugly and securely. And it doesn't smell. I used a spray adhesive to adhere the padded cloth to some thin plastic forms which I then cemented into the the inside of the outer case. Worked just fine and resulted in a very sanitary solution. Works for me. Michelle

Verry nice! I wonder if you could share some details about how you did your rolled edges and piping? They really set this case apart, IMO. Thanks, Michelle

Thanks, Roger! Michelle

Roger, that's one of the reasons I like the Palm haft. My fingers are kept pretty busy juggling the needle. The Palm haft fits nicely in the palm of my hand so my fingers can concentrate on the needle until I'm ready to make a puncture. Then yes, my fingers guide the haft but it's the palm of my hand that applies the pressure. That way I am free to release the haft with my fingers knowing that it will just fall back into my palm. And thanks for asking, yes you can see my work at my web site, http://silverwingleather.com/gallery/ The wet molded cases I mentioned are in the "Single Diatonic Cases" section. Thanks, Michelle

That #143 is made to be struck by a hammer or maul, vis., the leather pad on the end. I have found that my favorite awl haft is the Osborne #142, "Palm Awl Haft:" http://www.csosborne.com/no142.htm I actually prefer that #142 in certain applications over my Barry King haft, which is a work of art. The reason is the narrow width of the neck of the haft close to the collet coupled with the narrow tapering collet itself. I make lots of wet-formed pouches where I need to get very close to the side of the formed top in order to stitch it to the flat bottom piece. If you look at that #143, that plain wouldn't happen. Not even with my cherished King model as its collet is a bit bigger than the Osborne one. With that #142 Palm haft, the neck of the haft is very narrow, and the actual collet is nicely tapered as well (as it is with the #143; they're the same collets) allowing me to get into tight spots. Functionally, the size and shape of the Palm haft is near perfect for my hand. Easy and comfortable to use. Michelle

I made my stitching pony from these free plans on Chuck Burrow's Wild Rose Trading Center web site: http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html Works great for me. Mine is made of red oak and has a few modifications from those plans to better fit my needs. This basic plan stands up to any number of modifications. for example, one could easily make the bottom piece removable so that the parts would lie flat. Michelle

Here are two more ideas to help sharpen round edgers. One is the Weaver Strop Board: http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=8708 This is basically what Bruce described except it has two sets of leather and aplastic divider set into a wooden board. One set of leather strips is used for sharpening with included glue and a powdered grit. The other is used for polishing with included jeweler's rouge. One member of each set of leather strips is narrower than the other, intended for smaller diameter edgers. I find it very convenient and easy to use. You just drag your edge along the corner of the appropriate size leather strip on the grit side to sharpen and then on the rouge side to strop. Another idea is to use small diameter rods and increasingly higher grits of emery paper. You wrap the emery paper around the rod, pinching the rod in a loop of paper and drag the edger along it. You can experiment with something as simple as a coat hanger or try various size drill bits, depending on the size of the edger. Once your edger is sharp, you can use the same size rod with a piece of regular paper onto which buffing compound has been rubbed. Michelle

What worries and confuses me about those Tandy Pro-Line punches is that they are supposed to be case-hardened. Now I don't know much about case-hardening, and please correct me if I am wrong, but I think the hardening is most pronounced at the surface of the resulting metal. If that is true, and the tool surfaces aren't well finished to the point of requiring additional finishing, would that finishing not diminish if not entirely remove the hardened surfaces? And if that is true, what would be the point of the case hardening in the first place, barring any marketing ploy? And if that is true, one could question Tandy's motive in introducing this "superior" line of tools? Inquiring minds would like to know especially since this one just purchased a half-dozen Pro-Line punches. Thanks, Michelle