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silverwingit

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Everything posted by silverwingit

  1. Thanks, Tramp. That's just the sort of answer I was looking for. I figured it was something like that. Still I wonder why Leather Machines, Toledo Industrial and Techsew either offer no polyester at all or just a bit almost as an afterthought. I guess its time for me to start switching out my inventory of nylon thread. I've got a bunch, so that will take some time. Meanwhile, I'll buy some polyester thread from one of the above vendors when I make something for outdoor use. Warm Regards, Michelle
  2. First off, Chief, as always I love your work. You've set a high standard, especially with your lacing, that we can all strive for. But I have a bit of a delicate question regarding lacing vs stitching or just a nicely finished bare edge from a comfort standpoint. As visually appealing the laced edges are, I wonder how comfortable the lacing is on the wearer compared to a smoother edge treatment. I'd like to suggest lacing but at an 8-hour investment in time to lace up a strap (even for an expert like you), I'd hate to have my client return the strap because it abrades his shoulder. Can you or have any of your clients related any such experience? Many thanks, Michelle
  3. Thanks for the replies, folks. I appreciate knowing the sources for polyester thread, but my question had to do with why the sewing machine companies that advertise here seem to favor bonded nylon since until Cowboy Bob's recent additions none offered polyester. I just wondered if they omit selling polyester for some reason. Why not just sell and use only polyester since it seems to sew as well as nylon but lasts longer in an outdoor environment? Why bother with nylon at all? Thanks, Michelle
  4. I use Adobe Illustrator but you could do it with graph paper as billybopp suggested; the idea is the same. If I were to use graph paper, I would select a font and print your title at the desired size. Then superimpose the printout over the graph paper, maybe over a light table or the equivalent, and proceed as billy outlined. Another thing worth trying would be to obtain a handful of round objects the size of the rivets to be used (why not the rivet caps themselves?) and physically lay them out over the printed title. Painstaking but it would work. That's basically what I do in Illustrator. Display the title in the desired font and then place circles of the correct diameter over the letters. If you want to get fancy you can create a stroke that has the circles in it and just start painting or use the stroke to display the characters. One key is to choose very simple fonts. Good luck, Michelle
  5. You might get some ideas if go to an optician's store and look at the more expensive pouch-type glass cases. Other than that, methinks that the lining should be made of a material that doesn't tend to pick up foreign particles. There are many kinds of cloth made of microfiber. Some microfiber cloth mimics suede (it's even called Ultrasuede). It has a "nap" to it meaning that it is sort of fuzzy giving it a tendency to pick up and hold onto dust, grit, etc. Some microfiber cloth is like terrycloth, very fuzzy and a magnet for grit. Still other microfiber has sort of slick surface and doesn't seem to attract or hold onto dust and grit. Good luck and please let us know what you settle on. Michelle
  6. As to the grit of sandpaper the OP used, it may be that having a little "tooth" on the edge of the slicker could actually enhance its effectiveness as it might grab lightly onto the wetted leather instead of just gliding over its surface. That might slightly stretch and straighten out the leather leaving it nice and flat and ready to tool. And isn't that the purpose of a slicker? One might want to experiment with increasingly fine grit paper. Michelle
  7. I like that a lot! I need a new strap and have been looking for one that I could make that I could enjoy wearing. You've given me some great ideas. Thanks for posting! Michelle
  8. Slip, I happen to have a mini lathe. I'll use it to steepen the bevel on one set of punches I have. I'll leave my other punches for heavy-duty work. I'll try to use the re-ground punches to attempt some cutouts, hoping for the kind of success you demonstrate. Thanks much and keep up the good work. Michelle
  9. "You're a better man than me, Gunga Din." That is one heck of a project to embark on from scratch. I hope you are well-heeled and very patient. I know nothing about baseball gloves, but that video had plenty of steps that scared me off. The clicker presses, special heated jigs, etc. would be a very costly investment. The skills required would take years to develop. Good luck and please let us know how you fare. Michelle
  10. Ah. That makes perfect sense. Michelle
  11. Looks like your 40th! Only one comment. I'd put a 3/4" slot with a small round hole at the end coming off the peg hole away from the end of the strap. That will make connecting and removing your straps easier and will wear better with time as there will be no distorting the hole just to install the strap. IMHO a simple hole will loosen with time possibly to the point of letting the guitar fall off. I too wanna see your strap ~on~ your new axe! Thanks, Michelle
  12. Simply masterful! I like and respect this piece as well as any I've seen you post, Chief. I can do the Mexican Round braid. It's my favorite (I learned it in part from your videos). I'm fine on a straight run but joining runs and hiding the join is something that's beyond me. I too appreciate you explanation. Love it! Inspires me to attempt something like it for myself (when I work up the courage). Michelle
  13. Yes, slip, you understood perfectly. And I understand your reply. I think I'll try to sharpen my hole punches so that they have a bit steeper bevel on their edges. Thank you so much for your detailed and thoughtful reply! Michelle
  14. Thanks for the reply, slipangle! One more question arises. My hole punches always leave a bit of a "chamfer" or slope to the cut edges. Do you use a special sharpening technique or perhaps you know of an especially sharp punch? My jaw is still dropped over your super clean cutouts! Michelle
  15. Having dabbled in manual machine work, I am duly impressed. I wonder if you have acess to a knurl rolling machine in your shop? A little knurling on the barrel might improve your grip for those sharp turns on your leather patterns. Nice job! Michelle
  16. I almost embedded this post in another thread but I decided it should fly on its own merit as it is a question I have had for some time but I've seen no answers to it. It seems to be common knowledge that polyester thread is superior to nylon in outdoor environments due to its reduced sensitivity to ultraviolet light. Then I ask why most sewing threads I see available from our own vendors as well as others are strictly nylon? Does polyester thread not work in 441 clones like my Cobra Class 4 or other machines in general? If this is not the case, why do our vendors not seem to offer them and where can one purchase polyester threads made for sewing leather? Inquiring minds would like to know. Michelle
  17. I'd round those corners of the cross piece off some. They'd pinch and/or cut into my legs as is. The corners and surfaces of the uprights are quite rough as well. Methinks they would catch on and potentially damage and hence weaken your thread as you stitch. When you stitch a long run, you have a lot of thread to manage and smooth surfaces on your pony are your friend. Otherwise, your new horse will serve you well for a long time to come. Nice goin'! Michelle
  18. If you have any problems with contact cement adhering to the needle, you aren't letting your cement dry enough. Michelle
  19. I've had very few issues with my Class 4 but I too can also attest to Steve's "class." Thanks, Steve. Michelle
  20. My bet is that your stitching guide is probably causing more problems than it is solving. Also, I almost ~always~ have problems trying to stitch two layers without gluing, taping or clamping them first. Michelle
  21. I've read/heard that you can use down to size 69 thread but I've never tried it because I've also heard that you have to fiddle a lot with your tensions to get it to work. That's not worth it to me as my tensions are set well and work as is when I change threads and I don't want to enter "tension Twilight Zone" to use smaller threads. I stitch harmonica pouches made of two layers of very thin garment and upholstery leathers with my Class 4 all day long using size 138 thread and size 22 needles. Then I'll sew a 2-layer belt with size 277 thread and a size 25 needle. All I have to do is change needles and threads. Unless you feel that you really need smaller thread, I'd try that combination of 138 thread and a 22 needle. If that doesn't yield stitches that appeal to you, then go for the size 69 thread and please let us know how you fare resetting your tensions. BTW, you may find this chart helpful if you don't already have it: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Good luck, Michelle
  22. Who knows how old, what condition, what finishes if any, and what sort of glazing occurred though simple age and poor handling? You could probably make unfinished straps or like simple projects, but if it won't take water, tooling is out of the question. Do what Dwight suggests. Michelle
  23. While I'm not sure I fully understand your question, your answer seems totally wrong. If you wrap two layers of leather around anything, the outer layer ~must~ be longer because of the thickness of the leather. Period. In fact, the thicker the leather, the longer that outer piece must be. You surely would have seen that in your experiments. Better re-think it. Michelle
  24. Check out Ian's Youtube video on making a belt and Nige's on making keeper. http://youtu.be/YpEmkRlv1Uo Michelle
  25. They're called "rolled edges." Ian has a good video on how to do them. http://youtu.be/jOiuBcl2fek?list=UULkCG-505-1t0rYlgBTSnpQ Michelle
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