silverwingit

I won't claim to have the kind of experience as oltoot but I must respectfully disagree. Japanese knifemakers have long known that the optimum trade-off between sharpness and durability is an edge ground on one side only to a simple bevel. That's also the way my Heritage blade is ground and correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that is the way the blades are ground on the Osborne and Campbell-Randall splitters. The reason I like it, aside from the fact that it works very well, is that an edge with a single edge bevel is the easiest (for me at least) to sharpen and maintain. Very easy to lay the beveled edge on a sharpening surface and maintain that one angle. Then flop the blade over to remove the burr. Easy-peasy. A single bevel edge is also easier for me to set into proper adjustment as I know that if the blade is perpendicular to the roller, I am good to go. Adjusting a blade with a more complicated edge requires greater skill than I possess. I have my hands full with such a simple single bevel edge. I can make it work quite nicely and wouldn't want anything more complicated. Maybe oltoot is one of those sharpening gurus though. Michelle

My Cobra 4 doesn't have the same stitch length in reverse either. JLS, if you know how, please share the adjustment you refer to. Thanks, Michelle

Thanks for the reply, Bob. Yours pretty much echoes my experience except that I've had the needle problem towards the end of a run when thread was short. I made it work but it wasn't pretty. I once was a young engineer who found myself doing medical research. I made lots of research "hay" doing things that, had I been in the field longer, I would have known not to try! Michelle

Looks like you are having fun. I wouldn't be afraid to experiment with different needle and thread sizes. I swap out 22-26 size needles and 138-346 size thread (appropriate to needle size) on my Cobra 4 with little if any change in tension at all, ever. I can think of only one time I had to adjust the bobbin tension. It's good exercise just swapping out needles and bobbins and getting comfortable with changing tensions. Time will come when you need to make a change and with that kind of experience you will know what needs to be done. You will come to learn that the Cobra 4 is a very versatile machine capable of stitching anything from thin glove leather to 3/4" thick layers of saddle skirting. It is a very forgiving machine so long as you oil it regularly and remember to hold onto those threads ~tight~ for the first several stitches. I'm going to share two excellent Cobra 4 videos by our own Al Bane that I have found profoundly helpful. Good luck and keep up the good work! Michelle

I like it! Question: did you hand stitch with machine thread? Every time I do that I wish I hadn't. It unravels, pulls off the needle, frays, etc. Nothing but headache for me. Even though I have some nice colors in my bonded nylon machine thread inventory, every time I reach for one for hand stitching I recall the previous nightmare I had using it. Or maybe you have a secret? Thanks, Michellle

Um, er, I wasn't going to say anything for fear of seeming to gloat. I decided to go ahead and chime in again in an effort to give you hope that further investigation might bear fruit. I have no trouble sewing two thicknesses of very thin deer hide on my Cobra 4. It doesn't matter which thread and I do not have to adjust tension when switching to different size treads. Maybe a different shuttle or new tension discs or even different thread/needle combinations? I'd hate to see you give up. Michelle

I have fiddled and diddled with American thread for ages it seems. I've never tried Maine Thread but I did notice that it is twisted, not braided. Huge difference! Why? Because it is braided Tiger thread holds up extremely well throughout the length of your run without fraying and splitting. It also holds up at the ends where you pierce the thread with the needles. No unraveling and letting go of your needle which can be particularly problematic at the end of a run when the thread is short. And a little thing -- it's flat so it's a breeze threading it. I can't say enough about Tiger thread I've bought thread from Weaver, Ohio Travel Bag, Royalwood, Zack's, Springfield, a few places I can't even remember and of course, Tandy. None, folks, no, none measures up to Tiger thread. It's a crying shame that they don't wake up and start distributing in the US. I've got a box full of these threads that I no longer use. I think I have at least one of every kind of thread Tandy offers and I haven't come across a braided variety. I wish I could as I just spent several hundred dollars on an order of Tiger thread from Abbey England. Oh well, now I am in hog heaven, thread-wise. I suggest that all those who haven't try a smaller amount of thread as available on eBay or Etsy. It's ung*dly expensive any way you cut it but probably worth it in the long run for my money. I've had way to many struggles with my various threads. Those are quite happily in the past for me thanks to Tiger thread. Michelle

Andy, no one asked about your leather. It looks OK in the picture but really dried out leather can be the root of the problem. Another issue I see is your stitching technique. Properly done, saddle stitching should have a zig-zag appearance. This helps distribute the stresses along the stitch line. Your stitches lack this zig-zagging and are all in a straight line. This puts all the stresses on the seam right along that line where it tore. My bet is that if you learn proper saddle stitching your tearing problem will disappear. You can start with Nige's superb instructional video: Good luck and please tell us what you decide and how you fare. Michelle

Bummer. My Cobra Class 4 doesn't have this problem so I cannot advise you. Sorry Michelle

To answer your question, LoyalNine, I had only a smattering of experience sewing cloth in high school, where I was much more likely to be found in leather shop than sewing class. I bought a Cobra Class 4 two years ago and haven't looked back. Like Joe says, there is a learning curve but for me sewing leather is actually easier than sewing cloth. For me manipulating leather workpiece is easier than dealing with cloth flopping all over the place. But, do go ahead with your sewing lessons and I would even advise getting a simple cloth machine of your own. You'll be wanting to sew cloth liners or such sooner or later. I'm amazed each time I sew a project on my Cobra. It is such a time and pain saver for me. I love hand stitching but it is very hard on my arthritic hands and back. When stitching even a belt on the machine, it'll be over before you know it. Good luck and please tell us what you decide. Michelle

Good technique advise. You might look into 3M wet or dry polishing papers. http://www.amazon.com/3M-WET-DRY-TRI-M-ITE-PCS/dp/B0095I79RA/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1417977864&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+polishing+papers I used them to lap my splitter blade to a mirror finish. Michelle

http://springfieldleather.com/24788/Hammer%2CLeather-Working/

Simon, I have the Heritage #65-6100 (Pro) splitter/skiver and am very happy with it. I think it compares nicely with my Saddle Maker mentor's vintage Osborne in its use and effectiveness. With any splitter you have some work to do on the blade to get it really sharp, but after that the mechanics of the different hand splitters are similar, with one key exception that I will get into. Splitting with a good one once the blade is sharp and adjusted properly is pretty straight forward. Be advised, though, that there is a fairly steep learning curve figuring out how to skive with one, but like anything else, practice makes perfect. Skiving with a hand splitter/skiver is like rubbing your tummy and scratching your head at the same time. Maybe you are more coordinated than I. I can tell you one key thing about the economy Heritage model, and it's the reason I saved up for the pro model. The economy model lacks the pro model's locking stop feature. That makes it at least 10 times more difficult to use! With the locking stop, you can set the minimum thickness to be split to. This way you can start your split and use progressive pressure on the twist handle to split down to that minimum thickness as you pull the sample through. Then if you keep slight pressure on the handle the remainder of your split will be of uniform thickness thanks to that locking stop. Lacking this important feature means that you cannot mechanically set the minimum thickness; you must control it through the sureness of your hand. That makes it nearly impossible to split to a set thickness and it makes it so, so, so incredibly easy to just cut right on through and ruin your project. My advise is to avoid the economy Heritage model. I think you would not be happy with it. I might also mention that the Tandy "Deluxe" Leather Splitter is roughly equivalent to the Heritage Economy Splitter in that it also lacks a locking stop. I'm afraid that, for me, it is worth paying extra for that one feature. You would ruin a lot of leather without it. If you look closely, That Campbell-Randall splitter also has a locking stop. I think you would do well with either the Pro Heritage or the CR splitter. Michelle

I'm sure Troy has that right but you might also want to be aware of this inexpensive "hair" tool. http://springfieldleather.com/29223/Tool%2CHair-Blade%2CDeluxe/ Good luck, Michelle

That was a great post, Birdman! I wish I had seen one like it when I was setting up my Heritage splitter. One thing I might add would be to underscore the business about finding the correct relationship between roller and blade. It is critical is that the blade be perfectly parallel to the roller underneath it. Try making a straight line along the roller with a marker that is in perfect alignment with its axle. Then you can then use those blade adjustment screws to make the blade's leading edge run right along that mark. It's even easier if the blade is very close (but not touching) the roller. That should give you a good starting point. If the blade isn't perfectly parallel to the roller, all bets are off. From there you can tweak the blade's angle with the adjustment screws as needed. Also, just to clarify, if your blade is not already hollow-ground, there is no need to have that done. It's far easier to sharpen a blade that isn't hollow ground. Sharpening the blade is the most critical step in your set up. I used a set of progressively fine 3M wet or dry Polishing Papers on my granite surface plate to lap my blade to a mirror finish on both sides. It cuts like butter. http://www.amazon.com/3M-WET-DRY-TRI-M-ITE-PCS/dp/B0095I79RA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417974287&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+flexible+polishing+papers Good luck and tell us how you fare. Michelle

Valerie Michaels explains how to join corners with a single stitch in her "Leatherworking Handbook." But Nige's little tips and tricks are all very useful. Michelle

Joe, I beg to differ. You are clearly crazy... about leatherwork! And, keep it up! Michelle

You'd be amazed at how stiff and bulky a strap can get when you sandwich padding into it. My bet is that if you use neoprene the strap could double as a billy club. I use a fairly thin, airy foam sheet found at any fabric store. By time you've stitched it between your primary and lining leathers it will be plenty soft and your client will still stand that chance of rolling or folding it to get it into that guitar case. You don't wanna have to make a second one. Good luck and tell us what you end up doing. Michelle

For me, the trick is not so much how you mark the hole's locations, but how you physically punch them. Having marked the locations of the holes with, say, a point using a round awl, one method is to place the punch centered on the points, where another places the leading or following edge of the punch at the points. With the latter method, you can always see the marked point but must be very careful of left/right placement. With the former method, which I actually prefer, you must make a light test impression with the punch to ensure that it is indeed centered over the given marked point. Of course you can and should always make light test impressions before punching any hole, whatever placement method you prefer. Michelle PS: Here is that Weaver centering device. You should know two things about it, though. One, Weaver only sells to tax licensees. Also, the device is designed to use their Master Tools punches which are very, very nice but quite pricey. Search that same catalog to see what I mean. http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/Mobile/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=185FD3CC33B7CF69C99B93B444F2313F6A85E188A47961DAB96A232C7F033E4818485C02B019734BB68DC4C6A1E9B194AFA55689811E277237334E382C069D02BAF005735363B572E8FFCDA522DB7EA6F894C0F2C8C282BB60AB9D59DC14E2FB43E3D97F9A6304D177B9AC42B13D3327106661CF8E801C592F9C9AB1FA196EF1

As usual I ask myself, what would Nigel do? Though not directly applicable, this might be useful to you. Michelle

There are some books you will find helpful as you take your next steps into the wonderful world of leatherwork. 1) Al Stohlman's book on Hand Stitching 2) Al Stohlman's 3-volume set on making cases. (On sale at Tandy as of 12/1/14 for $12.99 each) 3) Valerie Michael's Leatherwork Handbook. 4) Al Stohlman's book on Leather Tools. Also take a look at Bob Park's tutorial on finishing edges in the "How Do You Do That" section. These resources will help guide you and improve your future work. Meanwhile, Keep it up! Michelle

I learned from a Chuck Burrows DVD (Wild Rose Trading Co.) to let the cement dry and then if the layer is not shiny, re-apply until it is. Works for me every time, no matter what kinds of leather I am cementing. Michelle

Depending on the aggregate thickness you are working with, regular "rapid rivets," even long-posted ones might not be long enough. Look into "tubular rivets," which can be had in longer lengths. Good luck, Michelle

Thanks, Ol Bill. I had seen that done but forgotten about it. Simple enough, eh? Michelle

Several comments. One, all of us who have made stitching ponies after the plans on Chuck Burrows' web site (Wild Rose Trading Co., http://www.wrtcleather.com/, http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html), should take up a collection to thank Chuck for posting those plans! [if you didn't get the plans there, it looks like your pony is at least a descendant. ] Second, I like the looks of your pony and being tall I know you will come to appreciate its height. Your back will thank you. Third, I think you will eventually want to replace the leather on the jaws with thinner leather. That leather is so thick that it will be cumbersome when holding small or thin items. And when you decide to replace the leather you will regret having nailed it on. Next time, if you just cement it on you will be able to peel it off and replace it when it needs to be replaced because it is worn or stained. Last, I noticed you did the same thing I did on mine when you made your first set of holes for the adjustment screw a bit high on the posts. When I did that I found that the screw that high created clearance problems with large items. The problem with putting the screw too low is that reduces the force that can be applied to hold items tightly. There is a happy medium somewhere. Looking at your clamping screw I noticed the wingnut. Being as low as it is will help avoid tangling your threads but when you stitch long runs with long lengths of thread, it will still cause problems. I have a plastic knob right now and it causes the same issues. I have been seeking a way to eliminate tangling with the adjustment screw mechanism. I have two thoughts. One is an idea I saw on a Japanese pony. That was a conical shaped wooden knob that had its base flush with the post of the jaw. If you have access to a lathe you could easily turn such a knob and put a slot in its base to accommodate the wingnut. My other thought comes from a post on this forum. It is called a "Cam clamp," and it is designed for just such applications: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT1WUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I actually have a set on my workbench but I haven't had a chance to modify my pony to try it. Looks pretty good to me, though. Just trying to help. Michelle