silverwingit

What a difference the experience of having made a project for the first time makes! That second time it always seems to work out so much better than the first. So it is with your bags, Joe. This second one is really a statement of your personal tastes as well as a testament to your ever-increasing leatherwork skills. My hat is off to ya! As to a zipper versus your roll-top, I see lots of zipper-top bags of varying quality of design and build, but few rolls-tops. Roll tops harken back to a previous era before YKK existed. The roll-top design, with properly treated leather makes a good water and dust-tight seal, probably better than anything but a water-resistant zipper of today's design and manufacture. In fact, it is how those water-proof bags that are made for boating and rafting today are constructed. You are talking about your next bag. Have you ever seen a Portmanteau bag, circa 1700-1900? I think one would be a natural extension of the direction you're taking. It too would be a unique period piece rather than just another modern-looking bag. Retro is good these days. https://img0.etsystatic.com/028/0/5147816/il_340x270.621944846_r7ha.jpg Keep it up, Joe. I can't wait to see what you come up with next. You are the Joe Namath of leatherworker.net in the sense that I can't wait 'till tomorrow because your leatherwork gets better every day. Michelle

Believe it or not, I am building a harmonica bandolier for a client who wants "as much bling as I can fit on it." I just placed an Ohio Travel Bag order for $100 worth of all sorts of nickel plated rivets, eyelets and crystals. I'll have to post a picture when I finish it. Donny's a huge man, weighing an easy 400 lbs., so the bandolier will be quite a chunk of leather and will probably weigh 25 lbs. itself with all that hardware on it, even without the 12 harmonicas he wants on it. Thanks for posting, Allan. You've given me some ideas. One question. Can you comment on your decision to line it (or not)? I know that weight is not an issue for your daughter's belt, but in my case it is. For that reason I am thinking of using double-cap dome-shaped rivets instead of round spots to avoid adding a bunch of weight in a suede lining. I am trying to keep the weight manageable by not lining it, but then again I wonder if all those dome-shaped rivets might weigh more than the spots plus the suede lining. Thanks, Michelle PS: I agree; that inverted carving is beautiful!

I use the hand setter set from Ohio Travel Bag. Heavy duty, made and work very well. I ruin very few Prym snaps in setting them. I've not seen the need to buy dies for my hand press. Michelle

I prefer parallel snaps for thinner leathers. I have had good luck with the Prym brand. Expensive, but very high quality. Michelle

A quick note and a link to an Arthur Porter video on the GoldStar press. Some months ago I was tantalized by the discovery of the GoldStar press. A cautious consumer, I contacted the man offering the machine on eBay. I was concerned that the press seemed to be able to use only GoldStar hardware items (rivets, snaps, etc.). I have tons of hardware in my inventory and didn't want to buy a press that was incompatible with some or all of it. The seller wrote back and actually took the trouble to buy some Tandy hardware to test it. The press wouldn't work with the Tandy hardware. I was totally impressed with the honesty of the seller, but opted out of the apparently amazing deal. I didn't want to start over with new hardware or to be constrained to only one vendor. Interestingly Arthur Porter has recently posted a youtube video comparing the Tandy and GoldStar presses. Very informative as usual. http://youtu.be/7n6tP07iEj0?list=UUeVcStwlRuJYgTia-sZ9Drw Thanks, Michelle

A few "groovy" thoughts (and yes I am an old hippie... ). You should strop your groover just like you would any other cutting edge. You might try grooving on cased or at least moist leather. The groover will glide easier. It may not be necessary to groove at all. Using a groover seems to be rooted in western US leatherwork. European leathercrafters don't groove at all, even with their horse tack items. They use a pricking iron and diamond awl and then hammer the stitches down. The stitching lies down nicely and doesn't tend to wear badly, especially with items that don't get heavy use, like a wallet. I personally think that such stitchwork has a singular beauty to it. I agree with you. I have a pile of projects ruined by stitch groovers. I don't use 'em on anything I make except knife sheaths and pistol holsters, where rubbing metal against leather presents a wear issue. Good luck, Michelle

Those holes look huge to me for the size thread you are using. Needle holes need to be sized correctly for the given thread. That way the stitches are tight and the leather itself helps hold the stitches in, much like beeswax does in hand stitching. I'd try downsizing your needles. Also, a round-pointed needle is not for leather. You should be using diamond-shaped pointed needles for the same reasons that hand stitchers use a diamond-shaped awl. It's also important to ensure that the needle's pitch (right or left) is the right one for your machine and chosen thread. All bets are off with sewing leather unless you get the thread/needle sizes paired correctly and you use the correct needles for sewing leather. Only then can you begin to hope to set your tensions correctly, and that is your next horizon. Finally, you might get better response by posting your problem in the sewing machines forum. Good Luck, Michelle

Tandy has started carrying it. But I don't know if Tandy is in Romania. You may have to have it shipped. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/2810-20.aspx Michelle

Greekgod, I don't know if it is available as inexpensively as in the US, but I purchased what's called a granite surface plate. This is a large, heavy block of polished granite that machinists use for a flat surface referene to machine flat surface on parts to a high tolerance. Mine is 3" thick and cost me $30 delivered. Might be an option for you. Michelle

I dunno about fixing the spots, but I read about lots of people having various and sundry kinds of problems with Eco-Flo dyes. I have never had any problems whatsoever with Fiebings Professional Oil dyes. Yes they cost more and are smelly and you don't wanna spill 'em or get 'em on your fingers, but they get the job done right first time, every time. I guess Tandy couldn't realize a big enough profit margin on Fiebing's products and decided that they'd rather settle for their own line of significantly inferior ones. Fooled a lot of unsuspecting customers (again). Michelle

What is meant by "a high quality leather wallet" is open to interpretation. Kevin King presents a fine tutorial on how he makes his professional-level wallets with multiple card pockets, rolled edges and fabric lining pinned in this very "How Do You Do That" section. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940 That is no place to start out, though. To give you an idea of a more realistic starter project, try searching the forums for "wallet." You will see many examples of people's work, from rank beginner to polished pro. One mistake I see people commonly make is using leather that is too thick. The kind you find in hobby shops like Michael's. You might start out with that to design a pattern but you will soon see how thick the wallet gets when you add several layers. Be like putting a brick in your pocket by time its finished. You'll have better luck with thinner leather, say in the 3-4 oz. area. When you get into that thin leather you will find many of the tools you listed of little use: your beveler, groover and slicker are made for thicker leather. My suggestion for a beginner is to go to Springfield Leather: http://springfieldleather.com/. They are a good source for leathers, tools and other items you'll need. They also offer an alternative that you might consider, their Chaylor-Fennel wallet interiors: http://springfieldleather.com/31/Chaylor-Fenneli-Interiors/ These interiors let you skip the difficult tasks of making many pockets, worrying about lining and so on and let you concentrate on the exterior. There you could let you imagination go wild and design any kind of exterior you like, even with thicker leather, since you are relieved of the problem of keeping the wallet thin. Since you will likely make several mistakes before you get a "keeper" exterior, this approach would afford you lots of flexibility. You didn't mention what you have in the way of a stitching punch, but your battle will be won or lost stitching it all together. You might want to tell us more and/or look into some of Nigel Armitage's excellent stitching videos on Youtube. Stitching separates the true leathercrafter from the wannabe. Good luck and get back to us, Michelle

Trox, those PDF files are very cool. However, I cannot find any instructions in them for lubricating the machine. Steve at Leather Machine Co. has an instructional video as does Al Bane. Both go into oiling the machine but their advice differs significantly. I was hoping to find some detailed manufacturer lubrication instructions in the manual you so generously posted, but that information strangely isn't there. I wonder if anyone knows of such written, illustrated manufacturer lubrication instructions? Many Thanks, Michelle

I got disgusted with my Springfield/Tandy divider. It's longer than I need and the legs flex. The steel doesn't want to hold a good point. I am delighted with these smaller, German-made dividers from the jewelry industry. They are very heavy-duty, well made and have nice sharp points. They also fit into my hand much better than the larger ones. Priced nicely, too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIVIDER-COMPASS-GAUGE-3-ADJUSTABLE-JEWELRY-MARKING-CENTER-MAKING-CIRCLE-/181386224669?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1120 Michelle

I create and print my patterns on my computer. My printer will not print on tracing film, but it will print on tracing vellum. Tracing or drafting vellum is much more resilient than plain tracing paper. http://www.amazon.com/Clearprint-Design-Vellum-Pad-1000HP/dp/B0024I7M8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409598484&sr=8-2&keywords=drafting+vellum Michelle

It sounds like you are serious so you should think about getting some serious stamp tools. I would strongly advise getting your basketweave and camouflage stamps from Barry King. Waaay better than the Tandy stuff that Springfield sells. http://www.barrykingtools.com/page8.htm They'll make better impressions and last far longer. Also, while you are at it, you might want to pick up a Barry King maul. The preferred tool for pounding on stamps. There are other sources, too, but BK mauls are very effective and priced right. At least that's the way I see it. Good luck, Michelle

Yup, he's a knifemaker. Look at the cut and blistered fingers. Michelle

Greaser13 - A contact-adhesive readiness test I learned from one of Chuck Burrows DVDs (Wild Rose Trading Company) is to look to see whether your coat of CA is shiny when set (both side to be cemented). If not, apply another coat and repeat. Some leathers absorb CA more than others and a uniform layer of adhesive on both surfaces to be joined is necessary to promote a successful, durable bond. After that, you should still plan on stitching the pigskin lining to the primary leather. Saddle and chap makers use oil-tanned leather all the time with no special treatment other than a good foundation of contact adhesive. Michelle

I use Weldwood all the time for vegtan and chrome tan with mineral spirits for thinner ( a bit more friendly than acetone, IMO). In my experience using Weldwood with chrome tan is much the same as it is with vegtan. You need to abrade the surfaces where you will apply the glue, else it will not hold well, just peeling off if the layers of leather when the are pulled apart. [This can be useful at times where the strength of hold isn't paramount. NB: Weldwood can also be rubbed off in areas of "overshoot" with a finger or an eraser if it isn't allowed to dry completely.] I've not had Weldwood dissolve or peel the finish off of a chrome tan leather, but I have only used a couple dozen different chrome tan leathers. I'd recommend it for chrome tan without hesitation, just as I would with vegtan. Weldwood contact adhesive is inexpensive, readily available, easily and safely thinned and very effective for use with all the types of leather I've encountered. Works for me! Michelle

Not knowing the exact nature of your project, you might be able to salvage your piece by "tastefully" putting a patch of contrasting color or textured leather over the offending area. I've successfully resorted to such measures before. Michelle

Skilled saddlemakers routinely use the humble little safety skiver (beveler) to thin out large areas of saddle skirting, which is several times thicker than your 4/5 oz. It would take much practice and skill to evenly skive that thin leather with a safety skiver, IMO. I'd try something else. Better yet, why not just buy some good quality leather in the thickness you need? You can get some very nice, yet inexpensive kipskin in the thickness you require. Michelle

Not carved, but several leather vendors sell belt blanks that have been embossed with floral (or other) designs. The knowledgeable eye can easily tell the difference, plus the embossing goes off the end of the tip of the belt in a way that betrays its origin (though there are clever ways to disguise or cover this anomaly). If you can deal with the embossed look, there are embossing machines with interchangeable pattern wheels that you can buy to do the job yourself in bulk. Might be an option for you. Michelle

At the risk of insulting you, it could be something as simple as the way you've threaded the machine. There are several ways to thread 441 clones and each vendor has their own way of doing it. If the thread is threaded in a way the machine doesn't like in reverse, especially since you have such a measured and scholarly way of learning your machine, checking all other variables to your satisfaction, I would suggest that you look at some of the other ways to thread it. Another thought and a question. It may be a blessing in disguise that you have had this problem. It has forced you to go through your machine in fine detail, yielding a deep knowledge of how it works. This is especially handy given your relative isolation. You wouldn't have gained this knowledge if you had smooth sailing from the start. My question -- where the heck is Bob Kovar of Toledo Industrial Sewing machines with this? He, like the other sewing machine vendors that support and advertise on this site, are known for their post-sales service. Is it the time zone difference? Is there an Australian rep middleman dropping the ball? I'd be on their case big time until I get satisfaction! Good luck, Michelle

I'm always looking for a better thread solution and $45 a spool without overseas shipping is daunting for me. I'd love to try the 0.8 and 1.0 mm sizes. I too will pay for shipping. I'd just ask that you send enough to complete a project so I can go beyond simply testing a few inches of stitching. Many thanks, Michelle

Just the facts, Steve, just the facts.

A couple of things I thought I'd mention. Another aspect of these two very different machines is also significant in this discussion, and that is their respective feed mechanisms. 441 clones are triple-feed machines and as such can use a smooth feed dog. The 2700 does have a compound feed but it relies mostly on foot pressure and a serrated feed dog to transport the leather. The practical impact of this comes into play if you are going to sew vegetable-tanned leather as well as the much softer and more pliable chrome-tanned common to purses, etc. The serrated foot will leave marks on the bottom side of veg-tanned samples. Depending on the location of the backside of your stitching this may not matter, but if it is exposed the marks can be nearly impossible to remove completely. Yes, a spoon or bone folder or even a cobbler's hammer can all help to minimize these foot marks, but they may be vey obstinate. Just thought I'd mention this as I know what an outlay a new machine is and that as a result you will be living with your decision for a long time. One other thing. Although as Andrew mentions, 441 clones have a reputation of having difficulties with thin leather, I sew 2 layers of 1.5 - 2.0 oz. thick chrome-tanned leather all the time with my Cobra Class 4 441 clone. And it has little difficult holding proper tension when I switch two to or more layers of 7-8 oz. veg-tan. It took Steve at Leather Machines (ads at top of page) to convince me that this would be the case before I made the plunge but now I am here to testify after owning my Class 4 for a year and a half now. Very much trouble-free sailing, too, with a wide range of thread thicknesses and types and thicknesses of leather. Not to say your experience would differ at Techsew. You can probably pick any of the sewing machine vendors that advertise here based n geographic location and hence shipping costs. AFAIK they all offer competitive prices and superlative service. Good luck and please let us know what you decide and why. Thanks, Michelle