DavidL

dixon - 50-100 dollars depending on currency exchange or the size prongs. Ask for slimline version or ask for certain width of prong. vergez - 99-220 depending on prong size. fineleatherworking.com contact the owner and he can quote prices for different size prong. 3/0 would work for thick threads like 1-1.3mm thread I would imagine.

If you look up any leather conventions in italy you may be lucky enough to be able to attend one during your stay. Theres more than likely a few retail shops that sell leather hides too.

I have the john james size 2 (not a 2/0) and it work fine for 532 and .8mm tiger thread. It depends on how strict you want to get with your needle size. The proper needle to SPI may or may not effect the stitch look. If the needle is too large and stretches the awl hole then it will for sure effect the stitch. 3/0 is a bit larger and is intended to do .7 to 1mm. It will work for smaller thread. size 2 would do 332,432,532. Ritza .8mm fits too. Even smaller like size 6 can do 532 at max if skived if I remember correctly I have 9spi, and 7 SPI irons. You do have to get 2 prong irons for tight turns. What I found is that I don't like the 9spi iron, its really small and really fine items, like watch straps. 6-7 SPI is the standard for me. general guideline: 5-6 for large bags. 7 for wallets 9+ for watchbands

I've been looking around and the only resource I have found for in-depth (over 150 pages) instruction is from theleatherconnection.com. Are there any other books that have a ton of important info on the basics of leather and how to make bags and small leather goods (wallets, pouches..) even if they are short books. Guided videos would be something I'm interested in too. The books I'm looking for are the intermediate - expert level. Books that go in-depth on types of leathers and basic techniques I would be interested in as well. The ones so far I have seen so far for consumer type leather working: japanese leather craft books. Leatherworking manual. Theleatherconnection.com manuals.

Thank you both.

There was a tool that I saw that was a workshop tool, around 8 inches tall if I'm remembering correctly. It was like a lotto spinner, one big cylindric container attached to a handle. The purpose of the tool was to add sand or rocks into the machine and while spinning the rocks would abrade the metal rusted item. Im looking for this tool to create some stone washed pieces in small quantities. If you know the name or where I could find this tool online that would help a lot.

I was looking at the videos of lvlp and they spray almost the same as the HVLP with less of overspray. I was under the impression that the lvlp is the same as a HVLP, yet spraying paint at 60 percent air pressure of a HVLP preventing the overspray. I may get a LVLP and a cheap HVLP dedicated for resolene. Thank you for the info about the compressor. Its really helpful.

would you say a LVLP gun (rated at 3 cfm) w/ a 1.3mm tip and a 2hp motor w/ 20gallon tank compressor work in a real situation with a 20 sq foot hide? Based on what I read it looks promising, the lvlp shoots more efficiently and requires less cfm from the compressor. Would this compressor and spray gun combo from full tank to empty be able to spray for a minute before the compressor kicks in. If the tank runs out of air and the compressor is running would their be a difference in the airflow? I plan to set the compressor away in another room or in a small closet to prevent the heat from effecting the air.

Theres a few. Dixon, tippmann, texas custom dies. Mallet dies can be made on request for extra. I use a wood tool for dies that can be used on regular dies, just so I can get a die clicker and not have to get them rebuilt. http://elfitakorea.blogspot.ae/2014/03/ovangkol-punching-hammer.html. The tool is not strong enough or hard enough to damage your dies. Also consider that the dies are handmade so if the piece needs to be accurate it should be a wood form die (computer cut wood grooved and the metal die sit in the groove), or a machined die. Do request that your pattern needs 90 degrees corners as the standard for steel rule dies are they are bent and corners are curved.The manufacturer will need to cut at the corner and weld the two pieces for a 90 degree corner, however they can get pretty close to 90 degrees if they are careful. The curve is perfect for the edges preventing dog eared wear and tear. I have a few issues with the dies I have matching up, they are made within 1mm of the design in some cases Ex. if you are making a wallet and the two pieces need to sit flush, one might be made 1.5mm too long and can cause issues for alignment. But is only a concern if you need pieces to sit flush. Machined or wood form are the choices for exact specs, otherwise steel rule dies are fine.

A lvlp gun (closest thing to a large pattern spraying airbrush) uses less cfm than a HVLP and at a lower psi, and has less overspray than both an airless electric gun and HVLP. The finish and paint efficiency is the best with a lvlp compared to airless or even HVLP (its hard to find any discussion on the web. At such a high psi the airless would probably create a LOT of overspray (paint 30-40% waste). Painting a house with a roller uses more paint even than the wasted amount from the overspray. The electric sprayer shoots at 3000psi (can go lower depending on setting) vs 15ish psi for lvlp and 28 psi for HVLP. It is meant to shoot out thick paint, but can probably reach lower to 1000ish psi (a guess) for stains. I found a bigger compressor in the USA - 20 gallon compressor, there may be something similar in the UK for the same price ($179 USD) http://www.harborfreight.com/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61693.html. It would be more than enough to run the machine for a long time on a lvlp. You may be able to get away with a 6 gallon if you pause for a few moments to let the compressor kick on every minute or however long. In real life situation to spray an entire hide would take 25 seconds, if even that per coat. Over time you will save the money on the wasted paint and have a better gun if you go with an lvlp compared to airless. Always look at promotional videos from the company itself with a grain of salt as they obviously won't say that its a bad product or has any flaws. Also the reviews are subjective as they are spraying walls and not worrying about paint waste, longevity or getting a perfect finish on an item that is small and can be easily noticed. The airless is still an option though for its cheap price for temporary use, unless paint waste isn't a factor.

Thanks for the tip Bob.

I also don't know which would be the best route, but the electric spray gun is hit or miss. Spray gun is more customizable, less overspray and more even spray. Price difference is 100 dollars from electric spray to spray gun. Even less if the compressor can be bought second hand. I do know that with the spray gun you can run it on a 6 gallon air compressor, most people run it on 20+ gallon tanks for cars, on a few sq feet this shouldn't be an issue. The cfm may not be high enough at 6. Maybe someone with experience will chime in. http://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-6310-6-3-Gallon/dp/B00889ZYPQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410782670&sr=8-2&keywords=california+air+compressor

I took a look at a few spray guns on amazon and of the electric sprayer that you posted. One thing I want to add just as a thought is that the spray gun has options of different size needles and are used by hobbyist, professionals and car buffs, where the electric sprayer is used by home owners. If you were to use the electric sprayer on a car I don't believe it will end up well. You may end up wanting to upgrade quickly onto a gun and compressor. I usually try to buy a tool that will work for at least 1-2 years in the future and not have to worry about needing to upgrade. Since you have said it was for a business in a previous post, I would recommend that you look into HVLP(less overspray - less waste) spray guns $50-120 that are budget professional grade, they are made to handle base, clear and primer paint and are made for precision to get a flawless finish on a car. The electric sprayer is not made to the same standard I would believe. The extra for the compressor would be worth it for the upgrade and would be a long term asset to your business. It could be overkill, but just giving my insight. Your original budget was 600 USD and an iwata or devilbiss gun plus a compressor will run around 250. 200 for an entry no name HVLP gun and a compressor and a oil/water separator. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?69668-What-size-compressor-for-HVLP-sprayer http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-IWA9230-AZ3HV2-13GC-HVLP-SPRAY/dp/B003YHHSY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410773735&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+gun http://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802405-StartingLine-Touch-Up-Gravity/dp/B0015PKQDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410773783&sr=8-5&keywords=devilbiss My rule I go by is before making a major purchase, look at every alternative, every brand or options and then choose from there, even if it takes a week (an hour a day). If i done this in the past I would of saved a lot on redundant tools. Its a habit I'm starting to form and Is useful for entrepreneurship because at the end of the day making simple mistakes constantly is the downfall of small businesses. Not to say mistakes aren't part of the learning curve but the mistakes should be minimized and prevented especially if it was from lack of research or if more time should have been spent researching in general.

Resolene cut 50/50 with water. Was this project hand stitched?

How strong a finish is resolene? I hear its the best finish countless times, but can it handle being washed. The back leather patch (if it was veg tan) on a pair of jeans if it was dyed - buffed - then resolene was added (100 percent with 4 coats with a airbrush) can it handle the washer and dryer? 1. Does resolene work well if it is 100 percent sprayed out of an airbrush or does it have to be cut 50/50 like with a sponge. Does it last the life of the product like how clear coat last on a car. 2. Is there a proper way to seal leather so it can be put through the wash. I have seen full (or top grain) aniline (?) or chrome leather that is dyed brown put through the washer and nothing bleeds out or distorts the fur that is on the interior. How do jacket companies prevent their leather dyes from coming out even through the wash?

screen printing is worth a look for one colour designs. On 2-3 colour design you have to get a screen press station that has multiple screen holders that cost 500 to upwards of 1 grand. If its a small design like a wallet, 2-3 colours can fit on a single screen if you are careful when squeegeing the screen. What you need for screen printing: A usable ink for leather or acrylic angelus leather ink w/ screen printing medium (to prevent ink from drying) Screen for printing and a squeegee exposure unit emulsion ink + spreader ink jet printer + clear sheet that can print dark enough inks for the emulsion/ design making process. screen printing machine cut outs to align the leather to the pattern on the screen Theres sublimation printers that print onto self weeding transfer paper (you don't have to manually pick out the white spaces in the design). After the printing is done on the paper it is pressed under a heat press. Another way that is similar is cutting out designs one colour at a time from solid colour vinyl with a plotter printer. What you need for sublimation printing and press: Sublimation printer (comes with the special ink depending on model) self weeding transfer paper. Heat press (some of these machines are poorly made and don't have heating elements across the whole plate) Sublimation is harder to align based on what I saw on the videos because you can't see the design (the paper isn't transparent) so theres definitely a learning curve. Sublimation costs for the cheapest price 180 for the printer + 30 dollars for 100 sheets + 300 for a press. Screen printing cost for the cheapest price if you have a printer already - 149 for a press machine (one colour/one screen) + 40 dollars for single colour of angelus paint and screen medium + 10 for squeegee + 45 for exposure + 5 dollars for the transparent film + 50ish dollars for the screen, emulsion ink and spreader. Theres a way to avoid getting a printing press by building an alignment piece and anchor it onto a board or table but it has to be made well for it to work.

http://leather-online.it/en/ they are located in naples. There was another site that was an organization of Italian leather hide manufacturers but I can't seem to find it right now. I found them while searching through google.

id like to know how it turns outs and if it works well.

from what I read Aussie isn't as much as a sealer as resolene. Resolene seals the dye, as it acts as a top coat creating an invisible barrier. Aussie just moisturizes the leather and gives it a bit of protection. I have aussie conditioner and would use it on top of atom wax, but I am unsure if it stays ontop of the atom wax or rubs off. The end result is that the leather is very soft. The same could be tried on dyed leather with resolene + aussie (or beeswax with petroleum jelly) The issue I also have is it takes 10 minutes of constant rubbing to get rid of all that excess dye. Drying the oil dyed leather under a lamp or a heat gun on low could remove the excess dye first then can be rubbed off easier I would think to avoid bleed off.

I have the same issue using the tandy groover. I use a compass to get a more even line.

A finish isn't necessary , but does add extra protection. Vegetable tanned leather will need a finish added if you want it to resist water marks and light damage. .8mm is thin enough for liner or inner pockets. Around 5-6 (2mm) ounce to 7-8 ounce (2.8mm) is the weight for main panels, thicker or thinner can be used depending on how you want the bag to look. If you need hands on help johnny from Atelier lodge located in Singapore does classes every week for wallets and bifolds. You should be able to grasp the foundation of leather working from his classes.

it could be 2 ounce leathers all dyed through. Glue the pieces together and leave extra allowance for the pattern and trim to size by clicker or very carefully with a knife. The top piece looks like its was edged then another piece of leather is added on top or it could be one piece? It looks like the very top piece has the edges rolled in. The edge could be done on a sander belt and then a clear coat or transparent edge paint is added and heat tool to set it. Looks to be something that took a year and a lot of scraps to get the final process.

I will let you know when I do start selling goods. Thanks for the kind words. Do u have any background of zana bayne I'm interested how she made the change from etsy to runway. As for the paint gun or airbrush I would have to go with an airbrush w/ a fan tip since it can do fades and it can also spray upwards to 3 inches spray pattern. With the gun you can get close to 5- 6 inches but no close control. I can't say for the quality of the cheap 50 dollar spray guns (100 may be good quality) but for the 100 dollar airbrush w/ siphon feed (Iwata eclipse) you can spray a 2 inch pattern. With a paasche talon siphon you can spray 3 inches with the optional fan tip. Another thing to add cleaning a spray gun in between colours will take a lot longer than a tiny airbrush, and much longer if its a siphon feed airbrush. What you should do is figure out is: What do u want to spray out of your gun? How big of a spray pattern do you want? is 2 inches enough? is 3? or 5-6 Do u want to do fades? Do u want a siphon feed(Change colours faster, wash faster) or a gravity feed (more fine line detail typically) a video of the iwata eclipse - 100 USD - shows the wide spray pattern. If you are doing an entire hide 20 sq then a spray gun is a better choice. Do keep in mind you can just cut out pieces and spray with an airbrush. If your business ends up doing a lot of bags then you could get a spray gun in addition to your airbrush. *Buying large equipment and sewing machines are typically better after the business has been registered to write off the equipment in your taxes. If its a small expense and practicing is more important then you it can be rolled over into business.

The ones that are tandy branded fenice are the same as the ones from italy I think. If its for marketing purposes it still comes from italy and are rebottled most likely.

I made a few items just to get an idea of how etsy works. But I haven't officially started my business yet, as I'm still learning, prototyping, and trying to get funds and especially trying to understand the accounting side of business. I do intend to start a website and sell my goods sometime i the next two years.