Feraud

I don' think it is necessary to use a positive and negative mold to clamp the leather between. Hat-makers have for many decades been doing what you want to do with just the block method. Either a plastic, wood, or DIY'd block should work. I agree with footrat, finishing the underside of the brim will raise the look of the hat considerably. Also, in the photo you posted there is stitching showing at the base of the crown. I'm not sure if that is a design element in itself or the maker stitched a sweatband on the inside. You may want to craft a type of hatband to cover any stitching that is done.

What an interesting project! Proper felt hats are made on wooden blocks and flanges. You can definitely take the DIY route with cool results. An online search should yield inexpensive wool bowlers to fool with. Another option may be found in these plastic hat shapers- http://www.hatshapers.com/ Whatever you decide I'd love to see progress pictures.

Very creative!

Another New Yorker here, born and raised in Queens. I'm also a total newbie to leatherwork so I'm not the guy to learn from! This site is chock full of information and helpful members and I learn something from every thread I've read.

Looks great! Tat flash lends itself very well to leatherwork. Btw, how would you mount that on the guitar?

A great looking group of holsters, I particularly like the half flaps.

Your work looks top notch! I love the wallets.

That's a great personals bag!

Nice job! I like the touch of baseketweave on the end.

Has anyone used the blanks from Zack White? Any thoughts or opinions if someone is just looking to make a belt or two and doesn't need/want to cut their own blanks? What Zack White offers that I haven't noticed from other supplies (I could be wrong on this) is a choice of thickness options. I have a few vintage compression style buckles that require thinner leather than most blanks offered. http://www.zackwhite.com/Leather-Strips_c_208.html

That is generally the sentiment with regards to trademark issues. I participate in the movie prop hobby and this frequently comes up. Making a "one off" is not an issue as is taking intellectually owned property and attempting to sell. If you paint Mickey Mouse on a child's shirt the Disney company will likely not bother you about it. However, if you start painting Mickey Mouse shirts and selling them... that's a different story.

Stunning work!

Your technique worked, it looks wonderful!

I reallly like the placement of the rope and anchor. Did you use an antiquing to set off the design or is it just the dye? Your uncle is going to love the belt.

My wife owns a few high end bags including LV. The quality of knockoffs are definitely not better than LW. She has has pointed out to me the quality difference based on shoddy construction and low quality parts. Based on this thread I noticed today my wife was carrying an LV wallet. I asked her thoughts on the quality and she pointed out that particular wallet had little wear and she has owned and used it for 15 years. I doubt many Chinatown knockoff (where most New Yorkers get their knockoffs) will last that long.

The typical LV bags you see (that cost a whole heck of a lot of money) are indeed painted material. They do leather bags but I think the OP is referring to the frequently seen logo style.

Thanks for posting your method. I appreciate seeing the different members' techniques.

What a ride! That was fun to watch.

What a fun design!

Ah, got it. Thanks for the explanation!

Excuse the silly newbie question but why seal the whole piece with neet laq before applying the antique paste? I assumed the neet laq was a final sealant? I know I am missing something important in this particular process! Thanks.

hint, hint, ..he wants more leathergoods!

Congrats on 10 years! Your hubby will love the belt and I hope he gave you something equally lovely.

Thanks for your attention on this Johanna.

I love the snake design! Excellent job.