pcox

cowboy3200

In the second picture I think I see the upper wrapped around the bobbin thread. It looks like someone has replaced the cushion leather in the shuttle driver there needs to be at least 3/16 to 1/4 in clearance between the ends of the shuttle and the leathers in the driver so the upper thread can pass around the d of the shuttle without resistance. Put a narrow piece leather in the machine remove the shuttle race covers get a flash light, while slowly cranking it over watch what is happening.

Pull about 4 more inches of thread from the bobbin. then hold the end of the top thread but do not pull it snug just hold it turn the hand wheel clockwise a turn or 2 lower thread should come up. If not the loop former may need adjusting. I won't go into that till I know you need it.

the first picture in post #21 shows your shuttle is not threaded right. The end of the thread is ok so far just needs to pass under the rail towards he bottm of the picture instead of up thru the opening.

Hope these pics help. I pulled the pulley/hub off the shaft and turned the pulley hub down to 1 inch in my lathe then filed a flat for the set screw on the 6 inch pulley. slipped it all back together, fitted a longer belt. Instant happy.

There is a simpler way.

There are static converters and rotary converters. The static converters will run your motor but at 66 % of it's rated power. The rotarys can be made at home if you under stand electricity, but may cost more to build than replacing the motor with a servo motor. I have built several rotary's have ran all my machine shop equipment for 20 years with one.

zero to 3.5 and anything between

Have you tried turning the hand wheel backwards? If yes then it sound like the adjuster cam is stuck. With the button down the collars on each side of the ring with the notch in it should turn when you turn the hand wheel. With the machine at 3 1/2 you will have to turn backwards.

I have a servo from Bob on my 211g and it will easily sew thur 1/2 inch of firm veg tan at very slow rate. You will never regret the servo.

Run the foot pressure as light as you can without the leather lifting with the needle which will cause skipped stitches. Also match the thread/needle size to the leather your using. big blunt needle can cause marks at the exit point

Most all the people I know that got the boss and stayed in the leather business found the boss too slow and stepped up to power.

If yours is like my 211g155 it s the part with the notch in it that the button on the bed goes into.

I just went and checked mine. I used a leather padded visegrip to hold the lower shaft and can turn the hand wheel with some effort. Adjust just enough to be able to change stitch length without tripping the clutch.

you can snug up the clutch action by removing the outer screws and tightening the inner screws a little at a time till you get the setting you want then replace the outer screws to lock the setting. If you tighten too much you will not have any safety clutch protection so go easy. I posted some pictures on your other thread, hope they help Use a padded vise grip to hold the lower shaft and see if you can turn the hand wheel. It should turn with some effort. You may need to spray the stitch adj. unit with some penetrating oil as it may be turning too hard. You always will have to readjust stitch length after you need to reset the clutch, but you should not have to re set the clutch after stitch length change.

I think your machine has a clutch. 1 st pic shows 3 slotted screws. 2 nd pic shows timing mark on pulley. 3 rd shows mark on casting. Marks in pics 2 & 3 should line up when thread take up is at it's highest point. The screws in pic 1 have a second screw, a spring, and a ball behind them which drop into 3 dimples in the pulley shell this is the clutch connection. The 3 dimples are not 120* apart so they can only index in 1 position.

I think some of you are thinking a 111w and a 211g are the same this not so the 211 only has 1 button in the bed. It adjust stitch length and resetting of the clutch. The clutch is also different on the 211. It is indexed by 3 balls and springs between a hub and shell that makes up the clutch instead of the lever and dog on the 111

You said you have a manual, read about reengagement of safety clutch It is inside the belt sprocket on the right end of the bottom shaft.

Sounds like you safety clutch is releasing when you change stitch length.

Are you sure you have the bobbin in right? Thread coming from left to right, on the near side of the bobbin. If that is right the latch opener may need adjusted, or a little more bobbin tension.

Hope these help

I have been getting $400 to $450 for 31-15 on a table with motor, bobbin winder, and thread stand. Serviced and ready to sew 20 oz. of leather. Delivering my last on tomorrow. I see some on Craigs list for $200-300 don't know condition.

I left mine on the factory stand made a speed reducer and a clutch motor. That was 20 years ago. If I were doing it today I would use a servo motor instead if a clutch motor.

It's cast iron. would not go to a lot of trouble till I found a shuttle.

They are hard to find and even harder to pay for. The last good one I saw sell was $300 . Some times you can find one that needs repair for around $100. The slide is easy to make.