pcox

If I lived in Daton I would drive 2 hours to Toledo, Take some of my work and see what Bob has to offer. He must have 40 or so machines set up. You can find what will work best for you and save the shipping.

I agree with Bob. I have had pretty good results with the 66, and a 201-2 is really good also. They are are home/family machines and are limited. In my opinion if you can sew with 46 thread or smaller you will do OK with these machines. Singer 31-15 would make you a nice machine.

did you mean 14 instead of 140? a 140 is a 22 way to big for 30. a smaller hole it your needle plate may help also

when I use hot wax in my Landis #1 I use beeswax and beef tallow. The moreheat cycles the wax goes thru the harder it getts a smcll chunk of tallow from time to time keeps it softer and it lubes better. I use beeswax from my own bees I use brood comb wax whitch is very dark with pollen. To clean it I melt it in water and the wax will float and the dirt sinks to the bottom. For rosin I go to the music store and get acake useed to rosin Violin bow strings.

what size needle and tread are you useing? Tread looks a little big for that thickness. What point on the needle? I think smaller needle/tread combo with a leather point might pierce the material easier and not push the leather into the needle plate hole.

Well I have $35 dollars cash $10 of gas an an hour of time in the 201-2 singer. I have a Landis #1, 2 singer 31-15s A 331-1 and a 29-4. I think I need a post bed machine to sew bottoms on some deep canvas and leather bags. Wiz, if I make a new gear set for longer stitches would I be able to use 69 & 92 thread? I have made many threading gears for metal lathes.

It is a 136w101 it may have ben refitted to 100 sub-class. I have not seen it hands on but the lady has sent me good pics and we spent some time on the phone. It has 12, 15 & 17 stitch gears in it a wider feed roller than the book said the 101 has. Has anyone ever used one of these machines, or know anything about them? The old book said it uses 16x4 needle does anyone know the current number? I want to use 69 and possibly 92 thread sew 4 oz. leather bottoms on canvas tool bags etc. I can trade a home sewing machine for it. It's on a new table with a new clutch motor and light. Opinions please.

Today A man sent me pictures of a singer 1136W101. I canot find any info on this machine does anyone know anything about them. I am looking for a post bed machine to sew leather (4/5 oz) on the bottom of canvas bags. It looks like it has a roller/wheel presser foot.

I just set up a new CB4500 on an existing stand and we had a similar problem. I made a solid rod out of some 5/32 TIG welding rod to run from the head down thru the table then hooked the chain to that. On the end of the foot pedal loosen the 2 screws and slide the chain bracket to the right as far as possible. This will reduce the angle and drag considerably. If you want to switch to the left pedal you will still need the pulley or an eye-bolt as a guide for the rod.

they are good machines but limited to no more than 8 oz. total thickness. That needs to be softer leather. In this area I buy 15-91 for $25 to $60 often is a cabinet. Most of these machines need to have the wireing checked as the insulation is coming off the wires going to the motor and light. I have 5 of these in my shop now and 4 needed to be rewired.

My old 29-4 has skipped stitches when the work is feeding toward me ever since I've owned it (20 years). After reading this thread I got to thinking about it so I decided to try other needles I tried 135x17 several different sizes no help. It sewed good forward would also skip with work moving from right to left, but not left to right. Today I made a lexan needle plate so I could see exactly what was going on. For some reason the loop was being formed below the hook. I changed to a 135x7 needle, sews perfect in al directions. Tried size 16 with 69 thread great, 92 thread 19 needle good, 138 with a 23 good. I am readly gooing to enjoy useing this machine now. I use it to repair race horse boots and harness parts, and a few human shoes and boots. Thanks Wiz and Darren B. your post got my mind working in a new direction. problem solved. Wiz your post about brazing up the feed part was great I nickel plated the bell crank up put about .0015 on it now it will stitch 51/2 per inch on 6oz. Thanks again.

more top tension and /or less bobbin tension.

I got a set of those for a 29k for Christmas. I put them on my 31-15 really finished it off.

Trox the machine in the vid is not like the bull 900B I work on for a harness shop here. It does have a jump foot and the bobbin winder is built on the machine. I don't think the vid is a 900B. They had some problems with the presser foot rasing up while sewing and we found the foot lift pedal return spring broken. With each jump of the foot the weight of the pedal and linkage would lift the foot a little, after a few stitches it would stop feeding.

mix a quart of acetone and a quart of ATF then soak it with it. You will be amazed, best I have found.

Take the belt off the moter and see if it still makes the noise

I keep a bobbin case for each size thread I use. Once I get the tension like I like it I dodn't have to mess with it.

seems like you do not have tension on the upper thread.

If thats the bottom you need more top tension. so thats the top forget what I said. Wizcraft & gattaknow has you on track