pcox

need more info.

A 31-15 singer would make you a nice machine.

If you grind them off it's junk.

The entire hook saddle will need to be moved to the right. This is a bit of a task but if you understand machinery you can do it. Remove the gear cover on the bottom of the machine on the right end of the hook drive shaft loosen the two set screws on the spiral driving gear also loosen the screws on the collar next to it. On the left end of the shaft is the post there are 2 large screws that hold it , loosen those and shift the hook saddle to the correct position then lock those screws. back to the right end now push the collar snug to the bushing and tighten screws, now hold the shaft to the left and the spiral driving gear to the right removing all end play and lock the screws. replace cover. I use 16x2 needles Bob Kovar has needles Toledo Industrial sewing machine. I think you need a bobbin case. The case and cap are one piece

You will lose a bunch of penetrating power.

I use either a 31-15 or my 16-88 depending witch one is set up for small stuff at the time. The 31-15 lets me get a little closer to the buckles etc.

Have you tried the thicker leather? Raise the presser foot put some thicker leather in and see what happens.

The burner that came with my machine was burn out. I replaced it with a porpane burner froma coleman backpacker camp stove. The backpacker stove has a smaller burner than the regular stove.

I use 207 up to 24 oz total thickness 277 to 40 oz and 415 above that. The only sheath work I do that is over 40 oz is axe sheaths

A 200 needle is to skinny for 3/4 it will flex and hit the needle plate breaking itself. I use 250s with 346 or 415 thread for everything over 5/8. The new needles we can buy now don't have a groove that is long enough for 3/4 if the needle bushing is the right size for the needle the treade will cut between the top of the groove and the bushing. I also am a blacksmith and I rebuild power hammers I have about 12 in stock now about 1/2 of them LGs Sid has sold little giant to his long time machinist Roger I live 2 hours from Neb. city. Maybe we will meet sometime at a blacksmith conf. I will demoing a 25# LG at the UMBA conference it Wisconsin Aug.9-10th

No markings at all. put some leather in the machine with no thread & sew a few stitches remove and see if the holes and the pricker marks match then adjust till they do. It can be a little hard to tell so I push a hand stitch needle thru the holes from the back side to make the needle holes show clearly. I sew most of the time at 6 per inch. but I have sewen some lighter leather at 12 per inch with 138 thread. Turning the knob to the right shortens the stitch. counterclockwise makes it longer

There is a knob on the lower front of tne machine that you adjust to match the stitch length to the foot you chose. the knob has a notched wheel on the back of the machine that keeps the adjutment from changing on ot own. You need topry the lever away from the wheel as you trun the knob so you don't strip the notchs off the wheel. I have been useing nylon thread on mine for 20 years and I get along fine with it. Everything from 138 to 415. If you use linen thread you really need the boiler to heat the wax and the bobbin winder that runs the thread thru the melted wax as you wind the bobbin. The boiler will keep the schuttle race almost too hot to touch when you are using the machine and that keeps the bobbin wax soft. The needle tip dips the upper thread in the wax as you sew. the bottom of the feed dog lever pushes a plunger that pumps the hot wax into a well that suppies the needle. this means you will need to light the boiler and let the machine come up to temp. before you can sew. This sounds like a lot of trouble but linen and hot wax will make the best machine stitch you have ever seen

I can put 9/16 spots on a 1 inch strap and sew along both sides with my 16-88 singer 22 oz. or less. stitch line will be1/16 from spots and about 5/32 from the edge. If it is thicker (up to 40 oz) my Landis #1 will do it if the spots are not more than 3/16 tall. everything has to be just right for this to work.

The thread needs to go down the needle groove thru the bushing before it goes thru the needle eye. I have had my # 1 for 25 years and worked on several. I have never seen a serial # on one anywhere. I also don't know of any of archives on Landis #1's. The needles we get now don't have a long enough groove to sew 3/4 inch if you have the correct size bushing for the needle in the machine. It will cut the thead when the top of the groove goes thru the bushing. the original Landis needles has the groove clear up to the shank. 180 needles for 207 thread 200 needle for 277 thread, 250 for 346 and 415 thread. If the bushing for a 180 needle wil pass a 200 needle it is to large for the 180 etc. They are great machine if you get one that is not worn out or has broken/missing parts.

This is right out of the book that came with my #1 from 3 to 8 cord #3 = 207 #24/180 needle 12 stitches to the inch $ cord = 277 # 25 needle 8 sti 7 cord =415 # 27/250 needle 6 or 7 sti 5 cord =345 etc. I have sewn with 92 thread when I still had some 160 needles. It uses a different presser foot for each stitch length and you need to change to the correct size needle bushing for what ever size needle you are useing.

It will be like the original point. Put the schuttle in the machine take the cover off turn the machine thru and see how much clearance you have from the point to the needle on the back stroke. That will tell you how much you need to put on it compare it to your good one.

If I were going to redo the point I would tig weld it with tool steel rod then reshape and polish to mirror finish.

3 phase motor should have a 4 prong plug 2, 120 volt 1, 208-220 and 1, neutral. You will need to buy a single phase motor.I would get a servo motor. You need to talk to some of the dealers on this site. sounds like your problems are the machines but the people you are getting them from.

I have not had any of those problems with it. It will dry on the thread down the thread path from the pot if it sets over night making the thread stiff. I just pull that thread out of the needle till I get fresh lube to the needle. I have not had it thicken in the pot yet so I haven't tried to thin it but I think it is water soluble as it washes off my hands easily with plain water. there # 1-860-693-0791 or puritan.industries@snet.net

Wiz I use it in the puritan high speed , singer 29 patcher, and when we make bio harness the Landis# 1 and cb4500. I think it really helps the thread pull up in the bio, takes less tension to set the stitch. I think it would be great in the 45x25. I like the purtian setup where the wax pot is after the tenison disk

Oil is not thread lube. The best I have found is from Puritan, Ceroxylon wax. Lubes the thread great then dries &sets and seals the stitches.I first thought $65 a gallon was high but after useing it worth it to me. don't gum things up.

I have some singer 31-15s that will do that nicely. Also I may have an 16-88 The man has not said if he wants it yet. Both machines will sew 20 ounce leather as well as fine fabric. With some modification I have sewen 3/8 harness leather. The 16-88 is a walking foot type feed but not a needle feed. The feed dog and outer foot work together to feed the material. The inner foot and needle only move up and down. No reverse. I have went thru these machines and they make a nice stitch. Will handle 138 and smaller thread. 0n the 31-15 think of a heavy duty 66 with a 10 1/2 inch throat & a little over 3/8 foot lift, it uses a class 15 bobbin instead of a drop in class 66

I just got a consew in this week that the lady was having similar problems with. Truned the needle around so the groove was on the correct side and it sews like a champ. Scarf always to the hook, don't cost much to check. thread from groove side to scarf side.

He bought out a large shop that had several machines. He has another G and a K he uses.to sew soles. He wants $150 for the F & G. G is missing the shuttle and the louper. I plan on selling them after I tinker with them long enough to learn a little about them. I will check on the mckay today and let you know if it is a lock stitch.

I just got a call from a man closeing out his shoe repair want to sell me a Landis Model 12 f and g G has 2 or 3 parts missing and the F he spent $3000 on 10 years ago and has sewn on I set of soles. This guy has done my sole and heel replacement for the last 20 years I know him well and believe what he told me. I really know nothing about these machines. If I don't take them by noon tomorrw they are going to the scrap man. I'm ok with the price. What do you think save em or let them go. Hr also has a sutton mckay he wants $1000 for if anyone needs one