pcox

To the left of the needle bar is a slide plate, slide it to the left inside you will find a large groove turn the crank and a bullet shaped shuttle should appear the bobbin is inside that shuttle. Bobbin is about 3 inches long looks like a wire with a washer near each end.

The pictures in post number 4 look exactly like my machine. I have a copy of the original book and it has Landis #1 on it. I have used nothing but bonded nylon for the past 20 years with NO thread related problems. I have used from 138 thru 415 thread paired with the correct needle and bushing . I always use the same size thread bottom and top. I have not used the boiler and wax pot in years. The bobbin winders do a great job, but if you are careful you can wind them with a drill. Eli;s last name is Yoder from Arthur ILL.If you call his voice mail it may take a day or 2 for him to get back to you

OK what is the proper term for my 16-88 that the outer foot a feed dog work together, inner foot and needle only move up and down. and the 153w102 with the feed dog and needle feed, foot up & down only. and Landis #1 feed dog and presser foot move together. needle up & down only

I have had this same problem. You might try this. Do all these things with the stitch set at the longest stitch. Remove the needle, rotate the machine till the feed dog drops below the needle plate, put a piece of paper under the presser foot let it down. now check to see that is held firmly in place. If it is not, adjust the presser bar lower. Take the paper out, put the needle in turn the hand wheel till the feed stops moving to the back, the point of the needle should be just ready to enter the material, but the feed dogs should not have dropped below the surface of the needle plate. If the feed dog has dropped thin slick material can slide toward you by the thread tension. This will create more slack than the take up can pull. The feed dog front to back movement is adjusted by he collar on the main shaft. The up & down is adjusted by loosening the screw on the bell crank on left end of the front shaft on the bottom of the machine.

Thanks for posting. Really worth the time to view it. I wonder how many employees that plant had. The work that went into each needle was amazing. As a blacksmith I love the forging equipment.

If it is really stuck I have the best luck with a 50-50 mixture of acetone and ATF.

I have a Merrow serger. I think sergers are there main product line but they may have regular sewing machines. The serger I have is about 11 inches long 7 tall and 6 wide very heavy. most T[shirts are seam with a serger. NOT a leather machine at all. I just checked there web site, they are all overlock machines (sergers). Mine uses 4 threads 2 curved needles and 2 loupers. mostly used for garments, some models for edge stitching blankets and drapes. New they are $2500 and up

Bobs got the parts your missing. I rebuilt 4 of these this summer. really good machines. with just a little work they will sew 3/8 inch leather. Will handle 207 thread, You will need to slow it down as most are set up for high speed upholstery. I put a 6inch pulley on the machine and a servo motor with a 2inch pulley on them

hard to beat the ball bearing speed reduceer

you can buy them for$300 to $500 around here in Mo. when you find them for sale.

Just finished one up yesterday. 3/8 inch is max. will do 14 oz easy. Location makes a lot of difference on price. This guy paid $1 for this one complete with table and 3500 rpm motor.

138 thread will need a 23 needle on most machines that I use.

Are you holding on to the thread for the fist couple of stitches? and are you starting with the thread take up at the top.

I have a 211G155 and many of the casting have made in West Germany cast in to them. the serial number is PC66649. Seems to be a lot of confusion about the identtification system

Thanks Eric for this great series. I got a 211g155 last week for $20 It had been in a flood then sat for 3 years. Your post have been very helpful. I finished the machine today finial sew off was 1/2 inch of veg tan. sewed great but that is the max. It sews 7/16 much easier. The only mods was I added a 6 inch drive pulley with a2 inch pulley on a gear reduction servo motor and removed the bottom thread guide on the needle bar so it didn't hit the foot. Using #24 needle, 207 on top 138 in the bobbin. Thanks again Eric, wonderful for you to share your knowledge.

maybe but not for long good machines but not meant for sewing anything more than garment leather and cloth.

1 quart of acetone and 1 quart of ATF mixed together is the best I have found. Last week I got a 211g155 that was totally locked up, no movement at all. I soaked it with the mix about 5 pm and the next morning a 8 it would turn by hand. I soaked again then blew it out with an air hose. then got after it with a toothbrush dipped in the same mix. It had been in a flood and was under water for a week then set in a shed for 3 years. Today I sewed 28 oz. of harness leather with it. Keep this mix sealed in a metal can or the acetone will evaporate quickly.

unless you are a machine mechanic looking for a challenge stay away from this one.

silver solder work great

I use shoe tacks in the stitch line on hard to hold items pull them as I come to them. Easier stuff I use Barges. The really hard stuff I use both. Contact cement only stick to contact cement when dry so it won't bother a machine when dry.

The pulley slides on then there are 2 nuts that run on the threads and lock it on.

Wrong. A larger motor pulley will speed your machine up.

these pictures may help. I think this is the same as yours. The rpm is 3,500 way too fast for leather work

You have an old singer clutch motor. The pulley you have is not correct for this motor/clutch setup. The pulley you need has splines that slide onto the splined shaft and a pair of jam nuts to hold it on. If you persist on running this pulley you will destroy the threads on the shaft if that has not already happened. I would guess that the threads have worn down and the pulley is not snug on the shaft allowing the pulley to wobble a little, working it's self loose. All of this type motor that I have seen are 3000 plus rpm which is not what you want to sew leather. You have 3 choices. Continue as you are not a good choice, or find the correct pulley, replace the motor/clutch unit.

Looking at the paint color I'd say it may be a Landis.