pcox

I'll check to see if I have any needles and awls for your machine. Do you know what size you need. Shank diameter is important if you can get it. To start sewing on mine put the work under the foot hold the thread to the left rear engage the clutch. Br sure to have at least 8 inches of thread tail pulled out.

I own a Puritan. they do have parts for most machines, however they didn't have parts for mine. Mine is a very old model that has a spiral scarf on the needle and the shank of the awl and needle are a different size. They first said I was mistaken. Next time I called an older man was there and said I was correct but they no longer serviced that machine.. They did find a few needles and awls for mine and I bought all the needles and some awls.. My machine works perfectly now but I did have to make 2 simple parts my self. I like the machine and use it when I need to. If I can find a newer model that I can afford I will buy it. Vamping etc refers to shoe making processes. I have an original manual copy right 1907. The wax pot is not heated as it uses liquid wax only. If you don't want the machine I would like a shot at it

should be #18 needles

I have had mine for a year and like it. 1/2 inch and under are no problem. It will sew very thin (4-5oz) but it will take a lot of setup change to do that. I have use #16 needles and 69 thread but had to install lighter springs on the tension, back off the foot pressure, and the bobbin tension. Lot of trouble if you want to change it often.

I have a 17 and it is a good machine but there are no parts anywhere. I made 5 parts for mine. It now has a singer 29 hook and bobbin but that has to be fit by hand not for most people. I would not pay half that much for it.

no speed reducer. I just bought the head and put it on a table I had with a servo on it. It is fine for me like it is if you are new to sewing you might like it slower. You do have to oil the walking foot linkage with an oil can. there is a simple valve on the bottom of the oil pump that needs to be closed to oil at low speed, it is covered in the manual how to do it, it's real easy. also an adjustment on the hook oiling.

I received my new Consew 1206 today. It oils great at the slowest the servo motor will run. About 1 stitch per second. Oil does not show in the window at that speed but I took the rear cover off and the oil is flowing great. I like the bobbin winder on top works well with no adjustment. tension is simple and effective. So far I have sewn good full 24 oz with 138 thread. So far looks great.

most likely you drove the needle bar up when you broke the needle. reset the needle bar then redo the hook timing.

I use a bobbin winder tire on the motor pulley and a light dimmer switch works great. motor sticks out to the left side looking from the wheel end of the winder

Thats an american straight needle

sent you a PM

Looks to me like you need to move the gear on the bottom shaft closer to the hook gear . Loosen the screws and slide the gear into mesh with the hook gear make sure you don't rotate the gear on the shaft as you may change the timing. tighten the screws It most likely out of time as the teeth have been out of mesh Do you know how to time it"?

I have never worked on that model but I think you just need to raise the feed dog There is a adjustment to do that

Call Bob at Toledo Ind sewing machine. I must have installed 20 or more of his servo motors in the last 2 years. Great control and an easy swap with a clutch motor. The price is right too.

I agree about not abusing machinery, but that license plate is no where near as tough to sew as 3/4 inch of old hard draft horse tug, and that class machine will do that all day. I can sew that license plate by hand with a awl and needle

It might have something to do with the presser foot if the heavier thread and larger needle caused the leather to lift as the needle comes up.

Take the clutch motor off mount the servo to the bottom of the table run the belt to the big pulley on the jackshaft.

Here is my Randall with the servo motor. Said file was too big.

That is a light bracket. There was a ball socket that clamped on it so you could adjust a sewing light.

bobbin tension set at the winder? Bobbin tension is set with the tiny little screw that goes thru the bobbin tension spring on the side of the bobbin case. There are 2 screws it is the left one below the slot that the bobbin thread goes thru when you change bobbins. Are you threading the bobbin right?

It is the screw on the left used to adjust tension. The right hand screw just holds the spring on the case. Good job, glad it is working for you.

All my machines are in the basement. I wax them with car wax, even where the paint is worn thru. The don't rust they are not oily, and I think it helps the work to slide thru better. Wiping them with oil tends to make mine collect dust. Some kid of cover also helps, Just an old towel is what I use.

Start with a new needle so you are sure it is not bent. bend the needle deflector away from the needle. so it just clears the needle then carefully see if the hook hits the needle. I use a small flashlight and a piece of white paper behind the needle/hook to see if I have a little clearance, If it touches you will need to move the hook saddle to the right to get the clearance you need. If it clears then re-bend the needle deflector so the needle just brushes the needle but does not move it to the left. If you have to move the hook saddle you may have to re time the hook.

Darren I run my Puritan with a common 1/2 hp 1725 motor. The Puritan clutch gives great control.

I can but it may take a day or two. Nothing special, belt from the servo to the small pulley belt from middle pulley to the hand wheel. the Randall really doesn't need much help with punching power. They were designed to be a treadle machine. If you ever get to run one on a treadle base you will be amazed at how easy they sew thick leather.