Bert51

Some machine can be setup to use other then the needle recommended by the manufacture, do you know what needles the previous owner was using? Bert.

Do not worry about it to much, I think most of the people here have said the same thing, mainly to themselves. I know I would have made a lot less mistakes then I have. Bert.

Or an Adler 104 or 105, they all use the same needle as the Singers. Would a size 25 needle be heavy enough?

Sadly, any 132K6 I've seen, that is any good has a real good price on it. Bert.

I was told a story of some one restoring a car and stitched the door and kick panels, which had a ply backing with a Singer 132K6. I have not seen it, but was told it could be done. I might have to go and try it, I wonder if a size 25 needle will do it? Bert.

I like seeing pictures of machine coming back to life, keep posting them. Bert.

I have been having trouble purchasing quality leather belt leather and a friend told me about Lathe Belts. Have a look at this https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Transmission+Belt+for+Lathe&_sacat=0 Bert.

These Bobbin Winders are made to use with round leather belt and I run several of my machine with leather belts and no problems. I have one old Singer 16K113 setup with a V belt and the same type of Bobbin winder and it works okay for me. Just took a little to set up, but works okay. Bert.

You need a 8mm (3/8) wide M type V Belt, what we call a V belt that you use on your car is a 1/2 V belt. Although you can use an automotive 1/2 inch V belt, it will sit to high and may rub on the guard, if fitted. Bert.

I have found a small drill bit that has been abuse once to often works well. Bert.

No iron 1951, two different sources. I have the book that I took the first 3 pages from and I borrowed the last page from a ebay seller, who sadly was to busy to copy his book for me. I thought I would post the last page again in case it was missed the first time, handy page. Bert.

Here is another I posted some time back, that I found useful. Bert. Industial Needle Companrisiion.pdf

Here is a listing for all 135 needles. Bert.

I just looked up the needle for the 108W20 on http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-100-199.html It gives the needle as being 135x1 Bert.

I have not had one of those little screws come loose on me, maybe a drop of Loctite or similar would make sure it dose not happen again? Bert.

I had a machine that was jammed up when I got it, oiled it and tried a few things that did not work. Took it out of the table put it on the work bench under good light and found pieces of thread had jammed up the rotary hook and tried to pull it out piece by piece, but ended up pulling to pieces, cleaning and oiled everything put it back together and it worked fine. Bert.

Have you checked the timing of the needle and the Shuttle. I just looked at my Adler 105 and mine the timing seems different. Bert.

I am pleased to help.

Remember, the 31-20 is a drop feed and the ISMACS International wrote this about it. " For cloth. Throat plate flush with bed. Large bobbin. Max. stitch length 5 1/2 to the inch. Shuttle #20758. Clearance under the presser foot is 5/16". Speed 2200. (In catalog 10/1952) " I don't think it will handle 5/16 leather very well. Bert.

I have a 105-6 and the main problem I have with thread is as Constabulary said, " The check spring should hold the thread under "tension" until the needle touches the material " or I do not have the thread wrapped around the bottom tensioner 1 and 1/2 times. Could you please post a picture of your face plate showing the needle about to go into your material. Thanks, Bert.

If you think the needle is hitting something, take off the needle plate and turn the machine over by hand and watch your needle. You will also be able to check the timing while you do it. It takes a fair bit of sewing to blunt my needles, so just check the path of travel of the needle. Bert.

Worry about the work tomorrow and go back to enjoying yourself, gilt free. :-)))

You said it, "really enjoying myself" and that is what I feel that matters most. Bert.

I was luck in my miss spent youth to work in the front office of a Sand Casting Foundry and used to get into trouble for spending to much of my day out the back watching these craftsmen working, They where making alloy bodies and gearboxes for power drills, but it was good to watch them work. They would pack the sand tightly into the mold and have hundreds ready for each pour, each casting could have many parts in each sand box. Bert.

I may have to try it the way shown in these two pictures, I have had no problems so far.