cord1974

Here's an Ernie Hill for sale. If you look at all the pictures you can get an idea of how they were constructed. https://vintagegunleathertoday.com/products/ernie-hill-speed-plain-black-leather-competition-holster-for-s-w-745 I'm trying to think of the other big names of the late 80s era but my memory isn't as good as it used to be. If you really want to go old school (late 70s era IPSC) look at the Milt Sparks 1AT or Hackathon Special. Or a Davis Omega. https://shop.joesalter.com/Vintage-Milt-Spark-s-Hackathorn-Special-45-1911-Competition-Holster https://www.1911forum.com/threads/gunsite-omega-and-or-liberty-holsters.1030638/ Sam Andrews has discontinued his IPSC Saddle style holster. But it's a good design for competition. http://www.andrewsleather.com/ipsc.htm I haven't made any of the above designs but I have thought about it. Ernie is still around. He's on Facebook and has answered a few of my questions over the years. Hope any of this helps.

Do yean something similar to the old leather IPSC rigs like Ernie Hill used to make?

I use to "wash" after antiquing. I also use it as a topcoat for items that will need conditioning in the future.

When I'm making a new strop or reloading an existing strip I grind up green compound as fine as I can get it. Then I add a bit of of oil to make it slurry. I then run that into the leather. I have no evidence that it works better than just rubbing the compound directly on the leather but it's how I've done it for over 20 years and it works for me

This was made with 7/8 oz. Most of my molded holsters are.

Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot

Sorry so late in responding.. I only use lacquer as a resist. If antiquing a projects my steps are: Tool Oil Dye (if color other than oil tan) Resist (lacquer) Antique Finish My main finishes are Tan Kote, Bag Kote or Resolene depending on the article. As for the lacquer itself I think it's Minwax or whatever the brand Lowe's sells. I've used both liquid applied with a dauber and the spray can version. I've noticed no difference in the result. But again, it's only used as a resist.

I use either denatured alcohol or 91% isopropyl alcohol. I haven't ever noticed a difference between the two.

I use it all the time as a resist. It's a lot more easier to get than Clear Lac or Wyosheen and accomplishes the same job. However I haven't ever used it as a final finish.

I've had two small jars (one mahogany and one dark brown) turn gray in the jar. You could tell it had turned when you opened it. It had a similar tint to the color in your photo.

If you follow Hidepounders instructions you will have an amazing edge when you're done. The real game changer for my edges was going with saddle soap and a canvas rag. So much better edges than the wooden slicker id been using could provide.

Back in my Army days I would redye my boots with USMC black then buff the mess out of them. Then go right to polishing with Kiwi Black. They always shined well. The most important part will buffing out the excess pigment. For a high shine I would use Resolene.

I'm in a similar situation. My left ankle is fused due to nerve damage. I have my cobbler put zippers in all my left boots. Brass teeth YKK is what he uses. Not sure of the actual name of the product line.

Yep.. Should have picked up a lot of Barry's tools

I got a good one. Not going to lie.