Alamo

Yup, mixing it 50/50 allows the resolene to soak into the leather better and requires you to use many light coats

Glycerin can be found in any half-decent pharmacy, and is used as a skin protectant and softener. Adding some glycerin to whatever mix you'll be making might be a good idea, it definitely can't hurt to experiment with it. Tea Tree oil is the stuff of legends, it's got some amazing properties when it comes to skin, so I would assume it would also be helpful for leather. Google it and see how much awesome stuff is reported to be linked to tea tree oil! Mink oil is meh; it is reported to expedite stitch rot and is somewhat expensive. Lanolin comes from wool bearing sheep. Google took me to the Wiki page and it might be something to experiment too if you can get it for a price that is cost effective for you.

Just get regular beeswax; I'm fairly sure that the virgin stuff was supposed to be a joke.

If you want to go with stuff that's already made, I would also recommend Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP From their website, they are offered in 8oz jars and gallon buckets, but I have seen them in 4oz jars and sample sizes. Might be able to order some of the sample sized from them direct to package with your items. Checked eBay, and there is someone who is selling the sample size, but the shipping on them is killer http://www.ebay.com/itm/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-Leather-Preservative-Sample-/160991220875?pt=Apparel_Merchandise&hash=item257bd3148b&vxp=mtr

And that's precisely what I'm thinking that Tyvek will eliminate; any type of stretch in any direction (I hope)! I envision a belt that does not change its length over time and does not sag or warp with time and hard wear. Other people have reported good results with Tyvek and contact cement, so I'm excited to try it for myself. If all goes well I will definitely keep you guys updated.

Thinking of using regular contact cement; I've read on other kinds of forums that Barges works just fine on Tyvek and holds like it should. I'm very curious myself, and I can't wait until I go back home to Texas to try this stuff out! I plan on using this product as long as it is actually Tyvek - http://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-HomeWrap-2-in-x-164-ft-Installation-Tape-D13841470/100422453#.UVJRERysh8E If this stuff isn't real Tyvek, I'll buy a roll of the stuff and use that.

Personally, I would stay away from oils that come from plants like olive oil; I feel as though they might potentially go rancid, expedite stitch rot, and encourage bacteria and mold growth in your leather. Stick with neatsfoot oil for sure.

Another excellent sheath!

Personally, I don't dye the backs of belts. The main reason is because it saves me some time and dye, but also because it prevents the wearer from EVER having the dye bleed into their clothing. That's just me though, and I'm very new to leather

So I've been bitten by the leather bug pretty bad, and I really enjoyed making my first two gunbelts. With that in mind, I was thinking about different ways to improve on them in terms of ruggedness. I know of a manufacturer that reinforces their belts with Kydex, but I think that would be too stiff and uncomfortable. Another company uses three layers of leather, but in a cost standpoint, that's a bit too expensive for me (though it is a good idea). With all that in mind, I have been thinking about a potential reinforcement material on and off, and than it hit me..why not use Tyvek? Ultra thin, near bullet proof, and if glued and stitched between a two-layer belt, would perhaps be just the right amount of reinforcement to help the belt keep its shape. I can't see Tyvek adding any meaningful amount of stiffness or loss of flexibility, so what do you guys think? To be honest, I was a bit hesitant at first about posting my idea because I was thinking that I could make it something like a "trademark" feature that I use in my belts, but what the heck, if y'all can benefit from it, than I'm happy to help! Alamo

While high quality tools are indeed a nice thing to have, sometimes compromises must be made in order to get things done. Here in the US, Dixon tools can be very expensive, and I know personally that I cannot buy those tools with the current funds I have. For the time being, Tandy and GoodsJapan will have to do even though I know that they are inferior products and cost more than they're worth (especially with some of what Tandy sells).

Currently, I'm using the stitching chisel kit that Tandy sells and have had good results from it http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/stitching-lacing-tools/3009-00.aspx Everything in the link was stitched using the Tandy kit http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=46724#entry295406 I will say that it does stretch out the width of the leather, so taping the backside is a good idea to try and minimize the leather from changing size, and using thick thread is a must because it leaves a fairly large sized hole, but for me, it gave excellent results. As a side note, I am going to eventually buy some pricking irons and a diamond awl, but until I have the money for those, I'll continue with what I have

If I'm to be perfectly honest with you, I think your holsters look fantastic! Keep up the good work!

No, again, those cut long slots for lace. What you want are pricking irons, like this http://www.goodsjapan.jp/category/pricking-irons-stitch-punch/catId=4252442

Definitely don't want a lacing chisel as they have wide flat blades to allow for the size of lace. I personally use a stitching chisel as of right now, and it works well enough, but I find that I must use very thick thread and without proper countermeasures, it stretches out the leather noticeably. For stitching, a pricking iron is definitely what you want. Look at GoodsJapan for some pricking irons of decent quality that won't break the bank. Best of luck!

I would recommend a little work on your awl; the sharper the better!

It looks as though you may not be keeping the correct thread over/under consistently. It's crucially important that the bottom thread is consistently in the same location every time. Also, what type of awl are you using? You might benefit from using a pricking iron and awl instead of an overstitch wheel since overstitch wheels don't give you the angle that the diamond shaped hole that the awl should make. Also try and keep tension consistent as well; pull tight on every pass so that the thread really locks together and seats itself into the leather. How tight you can pull will be determined by the thickness of the leather you're working with. Keep it up, and I hope this helps!

Their heads go through the loops at the end of the strap and then it cinches down around their neck so they don't fall out They're very cool, I've seen a few before on here (possibly from the same person) and the action shots that I remember were amazing

Boiler Up! The email I sent out was to a company that seems to supply many different collegiate conchos to many other manufacturers, so I hope they can help me out. Fingers crossed; the conchos they have are very cool and I want them bad!

Howdy y'all! I have a new idea for a project, and I would really love to use a Purdue style concho on it. Unfortunately, my Google skills have not lead me to any source that I can easily order from. I have already sent out an email to one company asking if I would be able to order some from them, but just in case I cannot, do any of y'all know if a place that sells collegiate style conchos, specifically Purdue styled ones? I know my chances are slim, but thanks for your time and help anyways Alamo

Those sheaths look amazing! What color of dye did you use on them?

Looks very sharp; well done!

Thanks guys! I can't wait until I can do more leatherwork! Definitely a few things that I have in mind right now that I think y'all will enjoy

If you mean the cell case, the only pic of the back I have is a crappy one The flash makes it look much lighter than it really is, but it gets the point across