cgleathercraft

Bought a 9/10 oz bend for making slings. I had the same experience - very tough to cut but carves, tools, burnishes well. I bought a razor knife from walmart to try and make it easier to cut. Took about a blade per sling before I noticed the drag. I'm not majorly concerned with it right now. Judging by the other comments I could have just received a stiffer hide. Strangely enough the slings I dyed black with roon came out the most supple. The roon usually makes everything twice as stiff and brittle for me.

That would be the stuff!!

DAP makes a non flammable version of Weldwood in a green can that doesn't have much (if any) fumes. Also believe its water based. I'll have to look on my can when I get home. Very comparable to the flammable kind in the red can when it comes to the bond. When I can set up a vent hood i'll start using the Red can again.

Thanks for the suggestions! Planning on making a purchase of several molds soon!

Disclaimer - its not mine - if this is not appropriate to be posted - admins please remove. Its for sale by an Auction company my Dad works for. Go to their website and they have it listed with the name Neely Manufacturing on an online auction site called proxibid.com Auction ends in 4 hours from this posting. wagner-pruntyauctionsllc.com The facility was a textile factory in my hometown and it went out of business a few years ago. I was asked by them to get some information on the machines with the intent that I would post the information here when the auction went live. Well the person managing the auction never let me know that it had started so most of the worth while machines are gone.

Several people are going to line up to suggest Resolene. Buff the leather till there is no rub-off after dying. Apply resolene mixed 50/50 with water in light coats(most recommend 3 coats). I use it, works well so far. Super sheen works if you apply enough layers. can't say for sure on satin sheen as I've only used it a few times. The other two I haven't used.

Ruined a project because it set in the perfect position to catch direct light from the sun on only half of it. light on one side, nice and dark on the other (like getting a tan). Short answer - nope

Thanks for the explanation! Chemistry was fun but I didn't find it intriguing enough keep up with it after school.

I stopped adding it up at $4000. that was only from a little over a year when i first started. 3.5 years later its still a hobby... looking for that 12 step program to "hobby" full time now....

I have yet to find an exact recipe with measurements for everything. I don't think of it as right or wrong, just as this works for me but may not for others. My process with clean dry leather (no prior oiling): Mix up the roon with some scrap -> dip leather till it's black -> allow excess to drip off -> neutralize (have to get a feel for it, see below) -> rinse (warm or cold water, depends on how it feels)-> let dry(might be grey, black, or blue as mentioned above) -> apply neatsfoot oil -> finish my neutralizing solution is "by the seat of my pants". Dumped baking soda into a large glass bowl. added water till I could dip or run the leather through it. I do not let the leather sit too long as i've read that baking soda can be harmful to it. No idea if the claims are true but better safe than sorry.

Tandy also has some general patterns for tack. Thats a good starting point. Springfield leather is also a great place to check out. Give em a call and they should be able to help you out with most everything you have questions about. Prices are also very reasonable there.

Could try rubbing it across the edges of several different objects. Basically anywhere the buckle could experience damage of any kind - chairs, desks, differnt style flooring(concrete comes to mind), gravel. These seem a bit extreme, but I doubt someone will rub through the plating in a short amount of time with normal wear and tear.

Received mine yesterday, they were exactly as described, Very low quality. lots of holes but clean in the middle. Will make great practice pieces and utility items. Agree with Ray, for the price, fantastic!

I'd want to know why he wants you to leave it off. I can't think of any reason that someone would want you to specifically make an unmarked holster that is your best interests.

I visited a gun shop that just opened up near my hometown and I inquired about them selling some leather. They were very receptive and said they would like to carry slings and holsters. They get the most requests for holsters fitting glocks and 1911s. I know I can get most glocks covered with just a couple blue guns but am having trouble locating a generic one for the 1911s. I've read a couple of other threads here that state one manufacturer will make their firearm just a smidge bigger or smaller than another and this causes an issue with retention (either too much or too little). Anyone have a suggestion?

The cleaning mat idea came from a youtube channel. They use a large piece of leather to cover their shooting table to be a little more forgiving on the firearms rather than the weathered wood. I can't imagine the sides are entirely waste. I called in my order, I should have asked a little more about them. If they are in decent condition i'll order a few more just to have on hand.

Buy the cheap brushes at the dollar store. Cut the bristles down by half to get into hard to reach places, this allows the bristles to fall into grooves a little easier when working between layers. I use Bee Natural Saddle Soap from Weaver. Works up a nice lather and pulls the dirt out of every nook and cranny! Cleaned two breast collars with it, the first was caked on mud/sweat/grime from years of work and no maintenance. Getting between all the spots took forever. Really wish I had before and after pictures...only have the before ones. Customer ended up tipping me they were so thrilled. The second was so thick with mold and grime it turned whatever it touched black instantly. Also did the reigns and bridle that matched it, all in about the same condition. Traded that work for a Pony saddle. Now I have 3 bridles, 3 sets of reigns, and 2 more breast collars to do for him.

Yep, There are several ways to get around that like liners, or flipping the back piece so the grain side is out instead of against the blade. It will be against your body so nobody will see the back until the sheath is taken off. My first few sheaths were single piece construction which forced the grain side out on the loop. With a little burnishing they smooth up and look great!

I think wrong might be a matter of opinion. Only two things I would change. Flip the belt loop to fold towards the back. Doesn't affect the use or purpose. Just might snag like Peter said. As for the keeper strap I would only make the slot on the "upwards side" (can't think of a better way to say it) of the stud so it will be solid against the stem of the stud. Making it a little snug. that way there is less chance of bumping it and popping the strap off and losing the knife. I've been there and lost a couple good quality knives. Doesn't make for a good day lol.

I'm looking at making a bunch of slings for a gun shop. I planned on working them just like I do belts. Tool, Dye, Oil (if it needs it), Edging, Finishing. My biggest concern is the finish. Resolene is usually a little reflective after application and buffing so I may hold off on that. I'm going to test a mixture of beeswax/neatsfoot oil. It worked well on the last holster I made. Nice matte finish and water doesn't soak in very well. Bag Kote is my next option. Like to hear of any other finish that isn't reflective (not a huge fan of Satin Sheen).

I did the same, I'm hoping they show up Friday. Would like to use them for small utility cases that will get a lot of wear by anyone who doesn't care so much about the looks. If anything they will make a nice gun cleaning mat after its sealed with a couple rounds of of wax. Then the wife won't complain about ruining good towels

I learned that a heat gun will work great to help get the mixture of neatsfoot oil/ beeswax to soak in to a holster. It also heats up the contact cement and allows the laminated leather to separate. Less heat and more hand rubbing held it all together thankfully. Vacuum packers are awesome at wet molding around objects. just make sure to place the outside face of the project against the smooth side of the bag. The textured side leaves lots of marks that can't be removed easily.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Tho I do not believe the eunuch part was in the dream

I've heard Gum Trag is abrasive against skin....I'm guessing I heard incorrect? I use Tan Kote as well.